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MotivX also makes an oil fill funnel for Toyota engines. It seem expensive but it is VERY MUCH worth it. It screws into the oil fill hole in place of the screw in cap. It makes for a drip-free fill of the engine. It works well with one quart cans or with five quart jugs. Don't let the cost set you back, it is fabulous! Be sure to screw it into the oil fill hole gently, user reports say it can break off but I have not had any such problem. I suspect the folks who broke it either cross-threaded it or else way overtightened it. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016FVJUX0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The new design separates. I put the clear part inside the blue part and put them both into a zip-lock to keep them free of dust between uses.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
I was about to post about my difficultly pouring the oil from my 5L jug into the engine. This engine has the shallowest depth for a funnel end to go into. A metal block that looks like even bolt nut would not pass bay. I have used the same funnel for many decades in various engines and at least 3 others are shallow but not like this. These others had something in the way not allowing the approx 1" diameter end to go down further. its not a hard plastic funnel so its easy to clean if needed and keep around the garage.

I'd like to see some other info on funnels you are using that more universal but suitable for shallow fill designs.
 

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Oil Change

Here is what I use on both Rav4 and Highlander. It is a Prestone funnel designed to use for Antifreeze, buts works good for oil. Image attached.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Here is what I use on both Rav4 and Highlander. It is a Prestone funnel designed to use for Antifreeze, buts works good for oil. Image attached.
LOL

Well except for the bottom which in my case has a bit of a taper its exactly looking like what i have been using for over 30 years. I suppose I could cut the taper off so its square but its the same identically otherwise. I probably got it with some rad filling kit back in the 70's
 

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I will stand by my suggestion of using the MotivX funnel. It is well worth the money! It screws into the oil fill hole and has a gasket. Because it is screwed into the hole it is nice and steady so you have no worries about it shifting as the weight of the oil sloshing around changes the center of balance of a normal funnel set into the opening. It makes a two handed grip on that five quart oil jug a safe and easy thing to do. Just do it - buy the MotivX funnel and enjoy. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016FVJUX0?tag=toyotanationconvert-20
 

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Discussion Starter #26

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2016 Corolla S Prem
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Links always valued. I searched on Amazon Canada and the typical extorsion sellers are well looking for $200 for a Toyota kit. Kia and other also beyond rational.

https://www.amazon.ca/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias=electronics&field-keywords=Motivx+Tools+Engine+Oil+Funnel&rh=n:667823011,k:Motivx+Tools+Engine+Oil+Funnel&ajr=0
:surprise:

Wow! That's crazy. Double what it should be!
Buy direct from the vendor https://www.motivxtools.com/pages/searchresults_toyota_mx2301b1_mx2320_mx2341_mx2320b2_mx2320b3_mx2320b4

Or you can buy just the lower chamber and use your own funnel
https://www.motivxtools.com/collections/oil-funnels/products/advanced-engine-oil-funnel-lower-chamber-toyota-lexus?variant=1703677952025
 

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Discussion Starter #28
I did an oil change again today. This time I used the plastic insert to predrain the filter housing. I found it captures the O-ring when you remove it. I could pull it out by the way. I used a 1/4" ratchets arm which when into the hole and I pried it out easily.

I didn't need a hose. The oil flowed straight down into my catch pan. I just got mu hands oily again. All done again with 0W20 Pennzoil Ultra Platinum. Good for another 8000km.
 

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Do you leave the drain tool attaced to the filter housing or remove it after the filter change?
 

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Discussion Starter #30
I has to be removed. You wouldn't get the casting wrench on with it on to remove the filter if you left it on. Be sure to insert the new O-ring supplied for the cap covering that hole as its coming off with the tool I found. the previous change I removed the casting without drain and it was messy.
 

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I quit draining the filter housing long ago. Better filters will have teflon(or encapulated) or viton type o-rings. Once I installed the cartridge drain with a well oiled eternal life o-ring, I won't touch it again. I just spin the cartridge housing/filter into its own drain bucket.

Both orings for the cartridge absorb oil, expand, and tighten. Even if the tech installed it to torque, both the cartridge and its drain plug can become extremely tight over the interval. The o-ring grip will be even more if it was installed dry, scuffed up while being screwed on, and then absorb oil locking the o-ring scuffing like teeth. Lube the o-rings.

For those that must drain their filter:
https://www.motivxtools.com/products/toyota-lexus-oil-filter-drain-tool?variant=16794858950
http://www.ctatools.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=461

To prevent damage to the baffle in many toyota valve/rocker/cam covers. I hate when many funnel stab/wedge the baffle.
http://www.ctatools.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=1374
https://asttool.com/detail_page.php?from_search=y&tool_number=OFTOY1038
https://asttool.com/detail_page.php?from_search=y&tool_number=OFT38
https://www.motivxtools.com/products/engine-oil-funnel-for-toyota-lexus-scion-vehicles-with-threaded-oil-fill-caps?variant=15325920774

An impact(air or battery) wrench will take off any drain plug, oil filter, or cartridge drain. These parts need the impact hits, vibrations, harmonics... that loosen and let you take a car apart without a 10ft black iron pipe on that breaker bar. Breaker bars put continuous force that break/strip stuff, especially with the cheap quality wrenches/sockets that many DIYers use. If breaker bar is your only choice, a hammer works better than an attached leverage pipe.

I never cared for the AST TOY640 filter wrench that many push. I find that the ones that look like the MotivX or CTA work better.
https://www.motivxtools.com/products/toyota-2-5l-5-7l-oil-filter-wrench
http://www.ctatools.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=33&product_id=1216
https://asttool.com/detail_page.php?stype=advanced&manf=Toyota,Lexus&tool_number=TOY640
 

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I has to be removed. You wouldn't get the casting wrench on with it on to remove the filter if you left it on. Be sure to insert the new O-ring supplied for the cap covering that hole as its coming off with the tool I found. the previous change I removed the casting without drain and it was messy.
Yea, I should have realized that. Did not think. I actually have never had my drain plug out of my cartridge. I always just remove the entire cartridge. Its a little messy, but not that bad. Never had any leaks around the plug o-ring. I don't think it would ever leak.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
The plug cap w/3/8" extension comes off very easily. So its not a big deal. I was looking a hose for ages to put over the insert tool which comes with the toyota oil filter. I couldn't find one. So I aligned my catch tray under it and pushed it in. the oil flow out and down. Done...getting it out was the issue. but the narrow handle of the 1/4" ratchet was the way to get it to pop out. Done, so next time its going to be so much easier. The mess of getting the entire casing out is avoided and having done both now. this extra step is worth it. I put the lower plug O-ring on (oiled first) into the grove and spin on the cap hand tight. Then the bigger O-ring of the casting oiled well as well.

Install it with the new filter and then tighten the cap last but not to vigorously. Its aluminum, stripping and backing it off don't work. I saved the insert I used in case I decide to use it for the next change 8000Km later again.

I have done so many different oil filter changes over the many decades and now find this isn't that bad at all. The worst one due to fit is the filter in a 4.6L Explorer 2009 engine with minimal access and angular approach is a beast even having done it 4 times (eventually). its still a struggle getting the filter out. My son's AWD big suv which is Full Time active like this HL
 

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2016 Corolla S Prem
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I really like the Motivx funnel. After wiping it out, I unscrew the bottom and stow it inside the top... the whole thing fits nicely into a zip-lock bag with the drain adapter to keep them clean and free of dust (and keep oil off of other things).
 

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Yeah, on my first oil change it was super tight too. I can't remember if I had to use a breaker bar or not but I did torque the metal end-cap filter tool a little bit. It is a bit deformed now but still works fine given that I don't tighten mine down like a freakin' gorilla on steroids. ;-) This is my first vehicle with a cartridge filter but I've found that I do not mind it at all.


Also, FWIW, I never remove the drain thingy on the filter housing. I just take the whole thing off and dump it. I have a bunch of small o-rings in case it ever starts leaking, but I've been doing my own oil changes since 2015 and have never replaced it. It isn't any messier to do it this way IMHO.
 

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My current oil and filter change routine is every 5K miles I change the oil and every 10K miles I change the filter. I use Mobile One 0-W20 and Toyota filter cartridges.
 

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Just my thinking but changeing oil and not the filter is like washing youre feet and putting youre dirty socks back on. I change my oil and filter every 6 months, 5/6 thousand miles.

Sent from my VS996 using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #38
This is by far the cheapest OEM oil filter of all I have bought. Even the aftermarket names like Wix or twice this cost. Its a no brainer to use it and every time you change the oil. Period!!!

Sorento 3.3L is around $19
Sante Fe 3.3L is around $17
Yamaha SxS Wolsverine is $19 (cartridge)
ATV Wix is $14

These are ones I can remember sort of that I have to buy for plus a number of others. toyota Highlander was $7 (a bargain) this is in Canada as well.
 

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Just my thinking but changeing oil and not the filter is like washing youre feet and putting youre dirty socks back on. I change my oil and filter every 6 months, 5/6 thousand miles.
Agreed... that is a bit unusual.
I've known people who change the filter at the midpoint, and even one guy who NEVER changed his oil, just swapped in a new filter every month. In fairness, that old Impala burned/leaked so much oil that he probably never had any oil older than 5k anyways
While I'm comfortable with 10k change intervals, it does seem silly to change the oil and not the filter. If anything, the oil will absolutely outlast the filter.
 

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Well... Consider what the filter does. It only removes solids suspended in the oil.. and only fails when the accumulated solids build up enough to reduce the flow (at which point the oil is bypassed). Your filter does nothing to prevent the breakdown of the oil. Unless you are concerned that solids are being flushed through the filter (not) there is in fact little need to replace the filter at each or even every other oil change.
 
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