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Neat stuff, that weber does seem customizable. My initial guess is drop the main jet from 140 to 130. These should cost less than five dollars each.

The distributor change is definitely a seat-of-the-pants noticeable change, at least on motors like in my truck where low RPM torque is a bit more important than spinning at 5k. In my truck I run the least centrifugal advance possible and most base timing before it pings, and the difference is huge, probably 10% torque increase from 1k to 3k rpms. My engine is out on the stand right now prepping for distributorless megajolt, I am that serious about how much power is hidden in the timing on these motors. No more tradeoff between initial timing and advance until it pings. Once done there will be before & after dyno runs.

I want to know how it goes with the knock sensor & light, I've wondered how to make that work. I'm drilling my block to fit a knock sensor tomorrow. Will you use LED+resistor or incandescent bulb? Either way will a big transistor be needed or will the sensor itself have low enough resistance to drive the light?

edit: some good knock sensor info, Maybe I'll rig use a laptop soundcard as an O-scope:
http://www.megamanual.com/ms2/knock.htm
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h38.pdf
 

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Mine tends to ping more at cruise when I tried blocking off the EGR. I know that would be a major pain to add now, but it's a suggestion anyway.

Also, your block looks like mine: no hole for the knock sensor. you'll have to drill & tap to install one.:headbang:
 

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Discussion Starter #43
Sorry it's been a minute since I've been on here to update. This car is so much better as a 5 speed! The motor works well except it occasionally stalls when coming to stops, haven't discovered why.

This intake manifold has no EGR provision so that definitely isn't happening. Also, last time I filled the tank I put in 89 to try it out, I don't notice this pinging you guys are talking about. Need the knock sensor to help me out and make sure I'm not ruining my motor.

In class now - update later.

-Joe
 

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Discussion Starter #45 (Edited)
Alright I'm not in class today so I have a few minutes to write. Last night I had my friend ride with me and try to video 0-100mph from the passenger seat to show what it's like. It's not blistering speed or anything, but it gets up and goes unlike ever before. I will mention that it felt slightly slower with a passenger, the extra 200lbs is fairly noticeable... I apologize ahead of time for the crappy video quality. I am contemplating purchasing a new flip 12 megapixel video camera.

In the video I am entering the highway from a stop and accelerating up into 4th gear where I then had to let off for a little bit as there was a curve in the road and a daunting tractor trailer on the inside lane. Probably reached around 102mph in the video, speedometer reads approximately 85% of actual speed. For your knowledge... 215/40R17 tires (approximately 24" diameter with ballooning), 3.58:1 R&P, 0.783 5th gear.
Would've done some horsepower runs last night, but wanted to do that without a passenger. Maybe I'll try tonight.

As for rejetting the Weber... LCEngineering sells certain sets of Weber jets depending on where you want to go from your current setup. Maybe I'll call them up and get their opinion. Also, I read somewhere that the rich mixture could be causing my stall problem.

Here's the video link: 1981 Toyota Corona 0-100MPH
 

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Discussion Starter #47 (Edited)
So the point of this thread was to sort of document my 20R 22R Hybrid swap and the difference noticed afterwards. At the same time, I added a manual W58 trans from an '87 Supra so it was hard to gauge the increase in torque or hp from the engine modifications alone (cylinder head, camshaft, and carb). I recently found a deal locally on a Nissan SR20DET swap (head, block, trans, turbo, ecu) for a good price and after all this time and money I just don't think the 22R is going to be cost effective for more than 200rwhp.

I really had my eye on an OBX stainless header and plans for a full 2.25" or 2.5" stainless exhaust with catalytic converter. Also, a wideband O2 sensor kit and plans for dyno tuning the carb and timing for the best performance for autocross or drifting... probably autocross. I think the 270 cam was a poor choice as lower end torque would've been more of what I was looking for.

So I'm posting because of the major dislikes I'm having with the Corona currently, although they involve the Weber 32/36 carb and adapters and not the hybrid motor. The car stalls from hard stops - even in neutral (so it's not a matter of clutch grab) and now I'm practically pobsitive it has nothing to do with a carb gasket leak either. I noticed a whining noise yesterday on my way back to Harrisburg from Allentown. Immediately prior to this, the car was stalling at every stop, no matter the intensity of my braking. I've had this sort of whine noise problem before on my carb'd Buick v6 powered Chevette. The base gasket was leaking and acting like a reed from a musical instrument, emitting a whining noise.

I removed the Weber 32/36 carb and found the bolts holding the two adapter plates together were no longer tight. I never put thread lock on them so they must've vibrated loose. I spent the afternoon cutting new gaskets from 1/16" gasket material and in the evening reassembled the plates and carb, only to discover I still had a leak - though the tone of the whine had changed.

After searching for the location of this leak, luckily I discovered it was between the carb and the top-most plate (more specifically it was on the front/fuel inlet side of the carb at the base, right in the middle). When I pulled the carb off, I realized why it had been leaking. The counterbores drilled into the top adapter plate sit directly beneath the clamping surface of the carb. The original gasket and the gasket I cut were not being clamped at this point due to this cavity and hence allowing air to flow in beneath. So I thought about my options: 1) JB weld over these bolt counterbores to make the surface smooth (and not worry about the pain it will cause me later when I need to remove them) or 2) place little sheet metal circles over top of the allen bolts to fill in the empty space. This 2nd plan seemed much simpler after I found several washers that fit almost perfectly. The fact that they had center holes didn't matter because the clamping part of the carb doesn't intersect the center hole of the washers. Realizing these washers would probably try to move around when sitting in between - I decided to put a few dabs of Permatex sleeve retainer on the surface between the allen head and washer.


If I ever need to remove the plates, I should be able to pry the washers away with a small screwdriver. Started the Corona back up and Voila! No more audible carb gasket leak. Hopeful, I took the car out to test the hard stop - stall issue. Seemed to be fine coming out of the neighborhood. After a little more driving, I found that the stall issue remains, though is not as bad as it was. I am not sure what could be causing the stall unless it is a leaky brake booster or improperly adjusted float levels in the carb.

I still want more power and also some more reliability... hence sr20det dream
 

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Discussion Starter #48
Ok bkubisht I took my spare distributor apart the other day and noticed its advance weights were labeled 14.5. I still don't know what the ones in the car say right now, but I think I need more instruction on disassembling the distributor before I break something. Any chance you'd be willing to describe how I should go about this or post up a couple pictures?
Thanks,
Joe
 

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I don't have one in front of me, here's from memory, haven't done this in a few years:
1. Remove cap & rotor (you're past this)
2. Remove bracket which has VR sensor mounted on it (a phillips screw or two, can't remember if the black cover must be removed first)
3. Disconnect vaccuum advance (E-clip)
4. Remove the big bushing ring thing that the vaccuum advance turns via ~3 phillips screws.
5. Centrifugal weights are under that, a couple E-clips and springs.

I vaguely remember getting the vaccuum advance off the shaft is difficult but may be easier if you remove the screws that hold the big bushing ring in place first. It's a good opportunity to clean everything inside the distributor if there's any junk in there. When reassembling I used white lithium grease on the moving parts associated with the vaccuum and centrifugal advance.

The 14.5 is the largest number I've come across, so that's likely the weights you want to run if you are chasing upper RPM torque without lower-RPM ping. Also with a vaccuum pump be sure the vaccuum advance is working and be sure there's no leakage of vaccuum through the diaphram.
 

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Discussion Starter #50
Ok, I don't have mine in front of me either, but yes, everything held down with screws had been removed leaving only the mechanical advance parts at the bottom of the distributor. My spare was full of oily crud and dirt at the bottom so I took some time to wipe it out. Also noticed there appeared to be a vent hole in the bottom that was plugged up. I was more wondering about removing the center shaft from the distributor, but I guess that isn't really necessary. I'll just pull those weights and springs via their e-clips and swap them into the other distributor.

As for the vacuum advance, I replaced that a few months ago with a junkyard one that wasn't leaking - my original diaphragm was leaking giving me no advance from one of the hookups. Thanks for sharing the knowledge about the 14.5 g weights, didn't want to have to go searching for more distributors. Also, I hope the weights in the Corona aren't already the same. I can use all the timing advance I can get.

-Joe
 

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Are you running the mechanical fluid-drive fan clutch, or an electric fan? I got a tangible power increase in mine years ago by going electric, but went back to the stock mechanical fan after a few months because of poor execution and I didn't want to throw money at a black magic setup. Just another idea.
 

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Discussion Starter #52
yeah i went electric... well technically I am running no fan right now. I'm going to have to find a good fit soon since spring is right around the corner. I made an adjustable comparator circuit to thermostatically control my electric fan... got the stuff for the circuit for free as it is available to all engineering students at school for project use. Just took a little while to figure out the circuit, work out all the bugs, and bundle it appropriately. I have one installed on my v6 Chevette and it works great. I could make one for you pretty cheap if you wanted or supply you with my diagram. What's a black magic setup?
 

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LCE and others sell a complete fan/shroud/thermostat setup, it's made or branded by Black Magic(edit: made by flex-a-lite). It's a really nice turnkey unit for 22R trucks, surely it would depend on your radiator dimensions to fit. I worked out the thermostat aspect with a flex-a-lite fan control from summit for $20, appears to be the same as LCE includes in their celica fan kit (you might consider this kit).
 

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im still reading this thread, just forgot about the site after my computer crashed.:D




another thing that you can do for the adapter plate leak, is to have the carb and plates just kissed to make them actually flat. i usually just hit em with some 220 on a long block, and spray with the copper gasket stuff for good measure.




if i could weld aluminum, id just nuke the whole thing on there. there really isnt anything else you can do with a stock intake.



and for the fan i love junkyard shit.

my rona has a 97 bmw efan in front of the radiator, and i didnt have to cut up the car
my wheeler has a ford taurus fan
and im working on using 2 smaller either maxima or newer taurus fans to work in the celica

i plan to wire em up like this http://www.celica-gts.com/forums/index.php?topic=11579.0

going to tap a new hole in the EGR plate on the back of the head for the sensor if nothing else works on the intake.

but right now i have em on a switch/relay. i use lighted switches so they glow when the fans off and motor is running.



ps your video doesnt work :(
 

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i have a 1981 corona liftback LE 22r auto trans, im going to be working on this car as a project and have never personally heard of the car before i bought it , theres not too many of them around where i live im sure, i wanted to introduce myself in hope of getting a bit of help hopefully with my project lol, it seems this ones going very well
 

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Haha it is pretty much a poop brown 4 door. The stock rear end is a 4.30:1 R&P according to the BUILD PLATE and it is the original drum brake rear axle. I recently purchased an AE86 Corolla GTS rear end and I'm not sure of its axle ratio but I can swap ring and pinions I think. The GTS rear has disc brakes and I should be able to find a decent LSD diff for it.
Oh and I know about the bellhousing, I have one already. Except I don't have the right clutch fork so I'm not sure what I'm going to do about that: either cut up the supra fork and modify it or buy the proper one from somebody on ebay.
I'm not building up the bottom end because of budget, but if I blow one more 22R bottom end I'm definitely building one up myself with forged and brand name components. Yeah, I won't be revving over 6k if I can help it, plus if I need to go high revs I will probly get a nissan sr20det.
Here's a picture:

If you got the 4.30 R&P, Id say leave it. It would get and go proper. IIRC those corollas had real wussy discs on em...

Id second getting a lsd of some sort. Mines a tire fryer and Im working on that.

Nice car by the way.

Do you have a hydralic clutch master/pedal assembly? If you do, just get a hydralic slave, fork, and clutch kit out of a pickup. The lines are just regular flared brake hose.
 

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Discussion Starter #57
****UPDATE****

My Corona is wrecked. I was running an errand a couple weeks ago and when I went to pull out of my parking spot I got creamed in the front left fender, just ahead of my door. Car was rusted beyond belief to begin with and the accident has put the final nail in the coffin.

Now I'll either try to find another 81 Corona to do a full restoration on, or I'll part mine out to those of you in need of parts. I also have an '84 AE86 LSD rearend (minus brake rotors and calipers) that is just sitting in my garage. Eventually I can come up with a list of parts I can sell, or you can contact me with any requests. my email is [email protected]

Thanks for reading the thread, sorry I can't take it any further.
 
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