I personally wouldn't go the stroker route just because the possible torque gains won't make up for the possible horsepower loss. Oversquared motors don't rev well... and considering this is a 4AG 20V... it *needs* to rev.thespud said:Increasing compression Ratio is not good... but I would say, that if you wanted to keep her Naturally Aspirated, you could always put on bigger cams, MWR Big bore kit, Larger (330cc) Low Impedance Injectors, and maybe even Stoke her to 1.8L (to become a 7A, essentially). I have even heard of people stroking the 4A's to 2.0L. Of course, If you wanted to stroke her, a port and polish would also be good.
Not exactly... but I get what you mean. The 4A block is too small to use a stroker crank the same size as the 7A so it'll need to be modified. The 7A block has a taller deck than the 4A. Simply using the 7A bottom-end would work... but horsepower numbers aren't exactly staggering for 7AGE hybrids. Maybe like 10 hp more in the top end and a better torque curve... Most of the club4ag guys who have done 7AGE swaps and the ones I've driven don't have as good of top-end power as built 4AGs IMO... they just make a better torque band.thespud said:^^ But then the 7A-GE 20v Hybrids have more horses... stroking to 1.8L is EXACTLY the same as a 7A block.
Then there will be no point. The stroke is what makes the displacement in the 7A block. It's not that the 7A won't rev... it's just no suited to rev. Unless you upgrade rods or something...Pineapple said:Hmmm could we use 4A crank with longer rod on 7A bottom to reduce stroke? The 7A won't rev because of longer stroke.