Toyota Nation Forum banner

2000 Camry Intermittent/Random Misfire

12K views 102 replies 11 participants last post by  Nyree 
#1 ·
A week ago 2000 Camry 214,000 miles threw code P0300.
Plugs, wires, and injector 4 replaced. Other injectors were also cleaned.
Started it back up, still had misfire. Was running better tho.
Today 2 coil packs and O2 sensor installed.
Started back up and threw codes P0135 P0302 P0304.
Parts came off 2000 Camry in junkyard that had not been wrecked.
Would P0135 cause the other 2 codes to come up?
Where do we go from here?
Thank you for reading this
 
#31 · (Edited)
A crack in the intake boot will also mess with the idle by throwing the air fuel mixture off.
That pertains to MAF (mass air flow) equipped engines. Where unmetered / pirate air can cause issues.

OP has a 4cyl which uses a MAP (manifold absolute pressure) sensor. MAP sensor is downstream of the intake boot and senses manifold pressure, not the air passing by it like a MAF. I'm not saying that vacuum leaks can't cause issues on MAP equipped engines, because it certainly can.
 
#5 ·
Are the parts you pulled labeled denso? If not, you need some. Toyotas in general are temperamental when it comes to aftermarket parts. Have you inspected the spark plug condition? It sounds like the plugs could be wet and the spark plug tube is allowing oil to enter and foul your plugs.
 
  • Like
Reactions: VONMAX and Nyree
#8 ·
You know not sure about denso or not, will go check. I should say all plugs are new and one injector. Going to try what you and OBwan suggested tomorrow. Been at it all day and now it is way to cold. The reason for the parts from the junkyard car is things are super tight, and normally not my choice.
We had a convertible cavalier that I absolutely loved. One thing turns into another and could not get it running right but would pass smog, weird I think. I dont want this Camry to become a casualty too. I want that V6 back lol
 
#12 ·
That reminds me,
Check with the junkyard to see if they'd take back the parts as credit and see if you can find actual denso parts from a Camry.

Covid has everyone in a hard situation. I've seen videos on YouTube that proves the theory of aftermarket coils versus denso coils in a highlander. The codes reset and ran better. Pretty sure all things being equal, the aftermarket parts are of poorer quality. If you need help, just send me a PM and I will locate a set for you.
Well my husbands boss is friends with the junkyard owner and he called her and bought entire car so he could pull whatever he needed off of it, but will mention that, thank you. Toyotas with parts on them around here a pretty scarce! I totally agree with you on aftermarket! If they are not Denso and not able to find them, will let you know, I appreciate that! Thank you!
 
#7 · (Edited)
Do you have a V6 or 4 cyl?


P0300 = random misfire detected
P0302 = cylinder 2 misfire detected
P0304 = cylinder 4 misfire detected
P0135 = O2 sensor heater circuit malfunction bank 1 sensor 1 (up stream / pre-cat O2 sensor)

Misfire could be ignition, fuel, mechanical or a combination.


If you still have the O2 sensor check for resistance across the 2 heater wires. Usually 2 wires of the same color. No resistance or OL means open circuit.

Also check for O2 heater circuit voltage on the connector (end coming from car). Use the O2 sensor and how it plugs in to determine which 2 wires to test. Ignition needs to be on for this test.
 
#9 ·
Do you have a V6 or 4 cyl?


P0300 = random misfire detected
P0302 = cylinder 2 misfire detected
P0304 = cylinder 4 misfire detected
P0135 = O2 sensor heater circuit malfunction bank 1 sensor 1

Misfire could be ignition, fuel, mechanical or a combination.


If you still have the O2 sensor check for resistance across the 2 heater wires. Usually 2 wires of the same color. No resistance or OL means open circuit.

Also check for O2 heater circuit voltage on the connector (end coming from car).
Sorry forgot that part its 4cyl, the P0300 was the first code to pop before doing anything to the car. OL means open circuit, can you explain this? I cant recall reading anything about that in the manual.
Will check tomorrow, thank you
 
#11 ·
Sorry forgot that part its 4cyl, the P0300 was the first code to pop before doing anything to the car. OL means open circuit, can you explain this? I cant recall reading anything about that in the manual.
Will check tomorrow, thank you
OL = open loop

If there's resistance, it can be measured. If you have the repair manual, there is a testing sequence for the o2 sensor.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Nyree
#20 ·
Does the decal under hood say California Emissions?
If so, the O2 sensor is totally different than a non California car.
The CA sensor is a actually a "fuel ratio sensor" and outputs different voltage signals than a O2 sensor.
The wrong one will cause engine to run really bad misfire etc.
The sensor for CA cars is more expensive too.
So check that the cars have the same emissions info both CA or both Federal emissions.

The tire size is on a decal inside the door jamb.
 
#21 ·
Does the decal under hood say California Emissions?
If so, the O2 sensor is totally different than a non California car.
The CA sensor is a actually a "fuel ratio sensor" and outputs different voltage signals than a O2 sensor.
The wrong one will cause engine to run really bad misfire etc.
The sensor for CA cars is more expensive too.
So check that the cars have the same emissions info both CA or both Federal emissions.

The tire size is on a decal inside the door jamb.
I am in Cali and it does
 
#23 ·
I had this same problem 99 camry code P0135 ran like sh$t. Put a 02 sensor and ran worse. Then realized my car has Ca emissions and I bought wrong sensor.
Ordered correct Denso CA sensor which the best price was from Walmart of all places after searching every parts site.
Still cost about 100 for that sensor but it fixed the misfire issue.
 
#24 ·
Other possibility is crankshaft sensor or camshaft sensor is flaking out, or you have bad battery cables or even a bad battery cell will cause all kinds of codes etc.
Load test the battery if in doubt take it to autozone and they will test it free. Check both ends of battery cables are good clean and tight. One bolts to the frame make sure its not all rusty causing bad ground.
 
#25 ·
Interesting you mentioned the battery, never done this before and relatively new, but the other day when we went to start it to see if it was still missing, the battery had died and we had to charge it. Will check that out, thank you
 
#26 ·
Easy way to test battery is with car off put voltmeter on battery it should read almost 12.7 volts approx. Then start car and it should increase to about 14 volts approx. If its below 12.7 you could have bad cell in the battery. But i'm still betting on the bad o2 is the main problem.

Look up the 02 part on autozone or advanceautoparts and you will see the CA 02 sensor is much more expensive than the federal.
 
#28 ·
Old battery and corroded terminals leads to hard starts especially in cold weather.

Baking soda and water will neutralize the corrosion and use a stiff bristle brush or green pad to work it in.

As for the o2 sensor, use an online retailer like Sparks Toyota or mcgeorge Toyota to get the original part number. Then cross reference with rock auto to ensure you are buying the correct one. And as mentioned earlier, make sure it says CA emissions.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Nyree
#30 ·
On Rockauto they say for 2000 Camry with 4cyl:
DENSO 2349010 {#22641AA03C, 8946733020, 8946733040}
FitsUpstream; CNG
orUpstream; GAS; Calif. Rockauto price $102

I tried buying one on eBay a generic type no brand name that seller claimed was for CA cars for $20 and it threw all kinds of codes and ran worse than the old failed sensor.
Bit the bullet and ordered Denso correct sensor and it fixed my misfire and no more codes set.
 
#34 ·
I think everyone needs to step back from flinging parts at unknown causes.

First, I agree that using 20 year old junk yard parts (especially ignition parts) is a bad idea asking for further trouble.

I doubt a vacuum leak. As has been pointed out a MAP will compensate for small vacuum leaks. As well vacuum leak effects show up more at idle and usually disappear at higher RPMs.

OP, why did you replace injector #4? The P0135 was probably from the junk yard O2 sensor - reinstall your old one.

ECU says misfire on #2 and #4. Do those cylinders use the same coil?

OP, can you feel the misfire? Is it at idle as well as when driving under load?
 
#35 ·
I think everyone needs to step back from flinging parts at unknown causes.

First, I agree that using 20 year old junk yard parts (especially ignition parts) is a bad idea asking for further trouble.

I doubt a vacuum leak. As has been pointed out a MAP will compensate for small vacuum leaks. As well vacuum leak effects show up more at idle and usually disappear at higher RPMs.

OP, why did you replace injector #4? The P0135 was probably from the junk yard O2 sensor - reinstall your old one.

ECU says misfire on #2 and #4. Do those cylinders use the same coil?

OP, can you feel the misfire? Is it at idle as well as when driving under load?
Replaced #4 because and sorry Husband did not say P0304 came up with the P0300 last week. Was not aware of this.
Yes P0135 came up when the junkyard O2 sensor was put on. #2 and #4 use the same coil.
The misfire is worse at idle but rev it up and its gone.

I have to say I know more than Im letting on but hubby wont hear this from me, it has to be someone else.

On the sensor in air cleaner, is it MAP or MAF. I say MAF.
 
#40 ·
Okay I need to back up here. I am confused now after reading the firing order is 1-4, 2-3 here but the book and auto zone says 1-3-4-2.
I am going by what husband said. He knows how to do the work.
Sorry for wrong info. Im going to have to check it out personally and get back on some answers..
 
#42 · (Edited)
Okay I need to back up here. I am confused now after reading the firing order is 1-4, 2-3 here but the book and auto zone says 1-3-4-2.
You have firing order confused with how the coils are hooked up.

Firing order is 1-3-4-2.

Coils are hooked up with cylinder 1 and 4 on one coil. Cylinder 2 and 3 on the other coil. Cylinder 1 and 4 are companion cylinders as is 2 and 3.

On the sensor in air cleaner, is it MAP or MAF. I say MAF.
Goes into the side of the air box? Thats a IAT (intake air temp) sensor.

4cyl use a MAP.
V6 use a MAF.

It's why I asked if you have a 4 cyl. or V6. They have different ignition system (waste spark vs. cop (coil on plug)), sensors, etc..
 
#46 ·
If you think the wires might be bad easy test is get a spray bottle of water and spray the wires as it runs see if it misfires.
And easy vacuum leak test is spray carburetor cleaner on the vacuum lines if one has leak the RPM changes as it gets sucked it.

But now that you say it misfies only at idle not when revved up I think your EGR valve is jammed up and full of carbon due to the high mileage on this car.
If EGR is stuck it idles like crap.
 
#47 ·
Please do one baseline check, if you haven't already. A waste spark system can run pretty well but misfire at higher RPMs when firing order (spark plug wire connection) is wrong. Please double check that the spark plug wire are connected to the correct coil locations.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Nyree
#51 ·
To much speculation and shotgun / load parts cannon fixes going on, without testing and diagnosing.

Attack the problem with info given. P0300, P0302, P0304, and P0135.

P0135 could be cause by swapping in the wrong sensor or bad sensor from the junkyard car. Since the problem didn't show up till sensor was swapped, replace with old one.

P0302 and P0304 require further testing and diagnosis.
 
#52 ·
Ok So,
bought NGK plugs, put old plug wires back on, started it a couple times and no check engine light popped up. Still seemed as tho it had a misfire.
Put old O2 sensor on, started it still a bit off.
The number 4 plug, no gas smell, not burnt, nothing. Smells like it came out of box.
Did not throw a code.
Did look at the vacuum lines. Found a worn out hose that goes to throttle body. Finger went right thru it. So air was just coming in, which possibly clogged the fuel rail.
I know Im forgetting something!
Thats where we stopped, worn out, cut firewood all morning.

BTW both sets of plug wires are NGK.

So til tomorrow
 
#53 · (Edited)
Ok So,
bought NGK plugs, put old plug wires back on, started it a couple times and no check engine light popped up. Still seemed as tho it had a misfire.
Put old O2 sensor on, started it still a bit off.
The number 4 plug, no gas smell, not burnt, nothing. Smells like it came out of box.
Did not throw a code.
Sounds like your narrowing it down. #4 may still be suspect though.

As a quick simple test, try removing the sparkplug wire to cylinder 4 with the engine running, to see if it runs worst with the wire unplugged. Also try unplugging the fuel injector to cylinder 4, to see if it runs worst. Do each test one at a time, not both at the same time.


Did look at the vacuum lines. Found a worn out hose that goes to throttle body. Finger went right thru it.
Replace that hose. ;)
 
#59 · (Edited)
View attachment 315161 that clean plug is #4, ran about a mile with new spark plugs. whats causing that? the vac leak?
That plug is to clean compared to the other 3. Looks like theres no combustion or very little combustion going on.

Since you said no fuel smell on that plug and fuel injector on cyl. 4 was replaced, I'm suspecting a fueling issue. But not ruling out a spark issue either.


Some causes of fueling issue:

1. Bad fuel injector
2. Wiring / electrical problem causing fuel injector not to fire.
 
#62 ·
You can do a easy test of injectors by sound. If you have a mechanics stethoscope you listen to each while idling or take a piece of vacuum tubing and hold on the injector and hold other end to your ear listen for clicking like a stethoscope . Go to each injector and you can hear if one is not clicking.
One time I found the rubber gasket inside the injector wire harness was folded over and someone forced it on until the connector clicked but the rubber gasket was pinched so the pins did not engage the injector and it was not getting power.
 
#64 ·
I appreciate everyones answers. Just going to say I proved my point with my husband. I asked him more than once are you testing anything or just pulling parts. Unbelievably frustrating. This showed him what he should of been doing instead of wasting a weeks time. But its his time and his dollar, so out of my hands. He is currently outside running suggested.

About the EGR, someone suggested a clogged EGR, I just wondered if it could be cleaned, thats all.

My mistake when I said fuel rail...super tired last night. The hose from air cleaner to throttle body has hole in it, was paper thin and fingers went thru it.

About the car not being maintained...totally agree. Husband is finally seeing going cheap way is not the best in some things. He bought that car unmaintained. Im not trying to bad mouth hubby but he really needed a hard lesson on being a cheapskate.

As the Toyato Turns will resume shortly.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top