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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I have a 2000 Camry 4-door sedan (V6.) that has been running
fine until just recently, when I noticed it had started to leak a little.

Once in a while when the car is at a stop (in Drive) and you're
ready to go and you step on the gas pedal, the motor revs up
but the car does not accelerate. After a second or so it begins
to move and all is fine. Sometime it will even begin to drift backwards
as if in Reverse, but it is in Drive.

I picked up some transmission fluid (the right type for the make/model) and followed
the directions to refill and the problem still remains. (no engine lights on)


Any idea what's going on here? I'm a first time car owner if you couldn't tell.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I added enough so that it went to appropriate the line on the dipstick I think. I was worried to add too much.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I'm not entirely sure the exact amount. It's to the line on the dipstick I believe, but I didn't use the whole bottle. Do people usually use the whole bottle?
 

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N
I'm not entirely sure the exact amount. It's to the line on the dipstick I believe, but I didn't use the whole bottle. Do people usually use the whole bottle?
No, you did it right. As long as you are looking at the dipstick when the car is running and warmed up.

How does the fluid look -- is it red and clear like new fluid? Does it smell burnt?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
It looked looked darkish red, like a raspberry. I didn't notice a smell. Sorry I'm not very helpful! I've never taken care of a car by myself. If everything is right with the fluid will that mean I'll need a new transmission? Or is it because of the leak?
 

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If everything is right with the fluid will that mean I'll need a new transmission?
I think it's a good sign that the fluid isn't obviously real bad. Unless it's been changed recently to disguise its real condition.

Do you know anything about the car's maintenance/repair history? How many miles on car/transmission?

Or is it because of the leak?
No. You caught it early. Down a quart or less is normal operating range.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I think it's a good sign that the fluid isn't obviously real bad. Unless it's been changed recently to disguise its real condition.

Do you know anything about the car's maintenance/repair history? How many miles on car/transmission?



No. You caught it early. Down a quart or less is normal operating range.
I bought the car with 118k on it at a car auction in July so I'm not sure on the history. (No mechanical issues, just hail damage. The auction requires them to go through a maintenance check) It was running perfectly until this issue came up a couple weeks ago. Do you have an ideas of what it might be?
 

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Almost 1/2 Million Miles!
92 Toyota Camry XLE
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I have a 2000 Camry 4-door sedan (V6.) that has been running
fine until just recently, when I noticed it had started to leak a little.

Once in a while when the car is at a stop (in Drive) and you're
ready to go and you step on the gas pedal, the motor revs up
but the car does not accelerate. After a second or so it begins
to move and all is fine. Sometime it will even begin to drift backwards
as if in Reverse, but it is in Drive.

I picked up some transmission fluid (the right type for the make/model) and followed
the directions to refill and the problem still remains. (no engine lights on)


Any idea what's going on here? I'm a first time car owner if you couldn't tell.

Other than having a worn out clutch friction plates (yes, there IS a clutch in automatic transmission!) you could also have a mulfunctioning pressure modulator. It could be a simple adjustment. I suggest you have it professionally tested. If it IS slipping, it will wear out the friction plates quickly. If this happens, you need to have the transmission removed, rebuilt, and reinstalled. Few thousand dollars at least.;)
 

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Almost 1/2 Million Miles!
92 Toyota Camry XLE
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I bought the car with 118k on it at a car auction in July so I'm not sure on the history. (No mechanical issues, just hail damage. The auction requires them to go through a maintenance check) It was running perfectly until this issue came up a couple weeks ago. Do you have an ideas of what it might be?

No records?:facepalm:

Most manufacturers recomend changing the fluid every 60,000 miles because it loses it lubricating properties, and can become sludgy, clogging pathways, valve bodies, etc.

Most people never do this...

The very old cars 1960 and all the way to late 1970s the Automatic Transmissions were completely dependant on Temperature and Pressure for shifting. Now, the new cars you can start and place it in Shift Selector "D" and GO thereby the "Electronic Controlled" Automatic Transmission will shift even if it is still cold (perhaps not overdrive until normal temp is reached). These new transmissions do get dirty because many people do not have any habbit of allowing a COLD vehicle to warm up!!!


No telling how this vehicle was driven and I highly recommend a complete Transmission Service very soon!!;)
 

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No telling how this vehicle was driven and I highly recommend a complete Transmission Service very soon!!
Would the first step be a fluid and filter change? What is the likelihood of this fixing the problem?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
No records?:facepalm:

Most manufacturers recomend changing the fluid every 60,000 miles because it loses it lubricating properties, and can become sludgy, clogging pathways, valve bodies, etc.

Most people never do this...

The very old cars 1960 and all the way to late 1970s the Automatic Transmissions were completely dependant on Temperature and Pressure for shifting. Now, the new cars you can start and place it in Shift Selector "D" and GO thereby the "Electronic Controlled" Automatic Transmission will shift even if it is still cold (perhaps not overdrive until normal temp is reached). These new transmissions do get dirty because many people do not have any habbit of allowing a COLD vehicle to warm up!!!


No telling how this vehicle was driven and I highly recommend a complete Transmission Service very soon!!;)
I do have records from the previous owner. He didn't write the last time he changed the transmission fluid though and it is the original. The car does act up worse when it is cold, but the problem isn't dependent on the temperature like you're describing.

I recognize getting a car from an auction isn't the best method, but being a poor college student this was the best option I could come by instead of a 3rd party site. I'm willing to take it in, I was just hoping I could get an idea/ suggestions prior instead of criticisms since I'm not very familiar with cars.

If anyone has suggestions at all I would appreciate it so much
 

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Almost 1/2 Million Miles!
92 Toyota Camry XLE
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Would the first step be a fluid and filter change? What is the likelihood of this fixing the problem?
Don't rule out going to the dealer as they may be better equipped and more knowledgable about proper diagnosis. Sometimes the dealer can be cheaper just because they work on these models all the time. Because of this the techs tend to be more knowledgable about testing procedures rather than just jumping in and tearing the trans out like other places.

For example, a shift lock up solenoid usually gets you Code P0773, This solenoid is located in the transmission behind the pan. According to the diagnostic procedures listed for testing for this code the transmission should not have to be removed. Possible causes for this code is as follows:

Open or short to the shift lock solenoid
Shift lock soldenoid malfunction
ECM malfunction

Usually a Dealer or Specilizied Automatic Transmission Repair facility would tell you what the next steps to take and not here in these threads.;)
 

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Almost 1/2 Million Miles!
92 Toyota Camry XLE
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1,801 Posts
I do have records from the previous owner. He didn't write the last time he changed the transmission fluid though and it is the original. The car does act up worse when it is cold, but the problem isn't dependent on the temperature like you're describing.

I recognize getting a car from an auction isn't the best method, but being a poor college student this was the best option I could come by instead of a 3rd party site. I'm willing to take it in, I was just hoping I could get an idea/ suggestions prior instead of criticisms since I'm not very familiar with cars.

If anyone has suggestions at all I would appreciate it so much

Read my post again. I was trying to educate you and not being critical of you.:disappoin
 

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I would fix the leak, then change the fluid and filter Then report back here. Last time I did a refill on an automatic transmission it took me something like 3 days of driving to get the fluid level right.
 

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I would call around to a few shops, explain your problem and ask them what they suggest and find out their prices for checking, diagnosing and routine service. Ask them if a fluid/filter change might clear the problem. Do it soon, but don't rush.

Use this website to find ATRA shops near you.

And if they all point you towards expensive repairs or nebulous outcomes, don't forget your friendly local junkyard that has crashed/old cars with good/rebuilt parts.
 

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I would call around to a few shops, explain your problem and ask them what they suggest and find out their prices for checking, diagnosing and routine service. Ask them if a fluid/filter change might clear the problem. Do it soon, but don't rush.

Use this website to find ATRA shops near you.

And if they all point you towards expensive repairs or nebulous outcomes, don't forget your friendly local junkyard that has crashed/old cars with good/rebuilt parts.

The problem with this is that all transmission shops always tell you that you need a new transmission, irregardless if the situation. They are about as trustworthy as salespeople and politicians, and all they care about is extracting the maximum amount of money from you. Often they will fix a transmission and charge you for a rebuild.
 

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Almost 1/2 Million Miles!
92 Toyota Camry XLE
Joined
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1,801 Posts
I would call around to a few shops, explain your problem and ask them what they suggest and find out their prices for checking, diagnosing and routine service. Ask them if a fluid/filter change might clear the problem. Do it soon, but don't rush.

Use this website to find ATRA shops near you.

And if they all point you towards expensive repairs or nebulous outcomes, don't forget your friendly local junkyard that has crashed/old cars with good/rebuilt parts.
Very good suggestions!

However, due to the year of the vehilce it is really getting harder and harder to find a decient used Tansmission from Junk / Salvage yards.

Also, If there "is" a need to remove and replace the Transmission, hopefully not, I HIGHLY recommend to flush that Radiator and make sure the Transmission Oil Tank at the Radiator is flushed and cleaned before you connect those lines up with the rebuilt "or" newer Transmission. Don't ask why I Know!:facepalm:
 
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