Toyota Nation Forum banner

21 - 40 of 78 Posts

·
'00 4 Cyl. Auto Camry LE
Joined
·
932 Posts
You're welcome, glad to read you got the trans. out, hoping the trans. seal rehab & repair goes well there.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
50 Posts
Discussion Starter #22
I was wondering if I should also be looking for something other than/in addition to the torque converter seal which could have cause the transmission to leak like it was. It wasn't just dripping it was flowing, at times, in a small stream. The torque converter seal that is currently installed is a seal with a metal case and a rubber lining. The seals I see selling are all rubber casing. The rubber lining looked like it might be more brittle and uncompliant than it should but it showed no damage. Rock Auto shows a torque converter repair sleeve. Is that something I should worry about? Would the transmission even function if someone had incorrectly installed the torque converter and caused damage to the pump or something else? Transmission worked great just a very bad leak.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
50 Posts
Discussion Starter #23
When i removed the seal, the rubber within the metal casing crumbled into many pieces. The other axle seals were fine. Is there something besides age and/or a bad lot of seals which could have caused the seal to fail like that? The person who I bought the car from thought the transmission was rebuilt. Seems like replacing the torque converter seal would have been a must. Any recommendations for brands of seals? I am also replacing the axle seals and the rear crankshaft seal. The crankshaft seal is quite expensive for a seal except for Autozone who is selling a Duralast seal at almost a third of what OReillys and others are selling. Any thoughts on Duralast seals?
 

·
Registered
Toyotas.
Joined
·
494 Posts
The repair sleeves are for when there is a groove worn into the sealing surface. Not for improper assembly, which is nearly impossible with a torque convertor, provided it is seated fully.
I would stick with name brand seals, Timken, National, SKF are all well-known names.
Seals fail for a variety of reasons, including improper insertion, excessive heat, grit in the fluid and on the surface and cheap manufacturing material.
When considering cost of individual seals, consider also the cost of replacing that seal again if the replacement fails.
 

·
'00 4 Cyl. Auto Camry LE
Joined
·
932 Posts
+1 w/ Cosmofennema above, I would choose any of those (3) seals over Duralast, even at 2x the price. Have had good luck w/ all 3 brands: National seals are currently on the '00 Camry here.
 

·
'00 4 Cyl. Auto Camry LE
Joined
·
932 Posts
re: Beck-Arnley - they are a "re-boxer" - some parts I've purchased over the years (electrical / ignition, brake, suspension) have been good: others ... not so much. Like Duralast: you don't really know (where) the part is originating from. It's not the country-of-origin: it's the manufacturer, equipment, materials used, part Q/A review, & ISO certification(s) @ the place of manufacturer that separates a "5 dollar" part, from a "$25" equivalent.

Alternatives: rockauto.com, amazon.com - you can also purchase (genuine) Toyota seals, based on p/n, on the amazon site.

My recent experience here is w/ National seals, purchased locally @ O'Reilly's auto: w/ a courtesy discount applied due to my employer having a relationship / account with them.

Paid way more $$$ vs. Duralast, but knew I would not have to "revisit" the job, due to poor seal quality / a failed seal. Latest email from O'Reilly's shows SPRING15 code will save 15% off $100 ship-to-home order.

Hope the feedback helps.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
50 Posts
Discussion Starter #28
I notice the National right axle seal doesn't have the flange on it. The seal that I pulled has a flange and Beck/Arnley has the flange. Do you think the flange is necessary?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
50 Posts
Discussion Starter #29
SKF on rock auto show a flange but the OEM part numbers don't match what I pulled off the toyota parts website
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
50 Posts
Discussion Starter #30
I have often purchased from rock auto but was trying to avoid the week waiting with standard shipping.
 

·
Registered
Toyotas.
Joined
·
494 Posts
Have you given any thought to purchasing Toyota parts. You know, from the people built the cars that last 3-400,000 miles?? Surely those parts will cause no worry. And, please, do not reflexively state that dealer parts are expensive without checking. And, too, each dealer is his own business, check two or three.
Years ago, I owned Mercedes. Bought most parts at the dealer, because they were better and CHEAPER than NAPA.
 

·
'00 4 Cyl. Auto Camry LE
Joined
·
932 Posts

It appears the (left) and (right) seals are different parts / part #'s: 90311-50029 for left, 90311-40028 for right.


Equivalent National (Federal-Mogul) part #'s: list as: 710112 for left, 712551 for right.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
50 Posts
Discussion Starter #33
I got the part numbers off of toyota website. The national right axle seal doesn't have a flange but the skf equivalent does. I used those part numbers and the skf website to find skf equivalents and then looked up the skf equivalents on rock auto and ordered those. I could order them all from the same site so I avoided multiple shipping charges. For some reason, Rock auto had a different toyota part number listed for the skf equivalent of the right seal it listed for my car and it didn't offer the skf equivalent for the rear crank seal as an option. However, The torque converter seal from skf looked exactly like the seal that completely crumbled when i pulled it from the transmission. It said KOYO-CR on the seal. With the thought of the transmission possibly being rebuilt recently and what happened to that seal I pulled, I am going to stick with the national I got from autozone for the torque converter. Someone online also mentioned the metal casing seals were more difficult/less forgiving to install. Maybe it is paranoia, but I don't want to do this again a few months down the road. Makes me wonder if one of the two owners in the last two years went through the process of installing the transmission, only to find the transmission leaking a few months later....

I did look at prices for toyota onlinre and except for the torque converter seal, they were 2-2.5x price. For the torque converter seal, they showed two options. The more expensive one also looked like the the one i pulled. The dealers the site listed were over 100 miles away as well. I would have to pay shipping anyway. The local toyota place wanted $78 for the rear main seal and $25 for the torque converter seal. The SKF equivalents through rock auto were $20 and $6 respectively plus shipping. The autozone price for the national was $10 plus tax. The skf seals for the axles were each around $5 plus tax and shipping. So my total cost for the three seals was $20 and $7 shipping for SKF seals. About $11 more for the national torque converter seal. Just have to wait a week for the rock auto shipment to get here...

Thank you CamryFL and Cosmofenna for your valued input.
 

·
'00 4 Cyl. Auto Camry LE
Joined
·
932 Posts
It's quite possible if they did any transmission work, they did -not- replace that seal: to the best of my knowledge, Koyo was a primary OEM supplier to Toyota. If they ran the trans low over the duration it has been leaking: it doesn't take many excessive heat / cool cycles to "cook" those rubber / viton seals, they will dry out quickly. Glad you got everything matched up part # wise, and at a good price.

When I did the axle seals here, the (originals) were "flush" w/ the trans casing, and flared to the axle shaft - which is expected over years of use. The new seals actually drove down between 1/16 - 1/8" below the top lip on the trans casing before they seated "home", at the base of the seal lip casting.

Lots of prep: brake cleaner, nylon brush, automotive pick tools to clean the seal lip area (no sanding), lint-free rags to prep, a thin coat of clean ATF fluid on the seal and inner casing, before driving in w/ an aluminum bearing/race/seal install set (OEMTOOLS 27119), and weighted rubber mallet. 20 minutes prep.. 3 minutes to install. A metric (mm) depth gauge and/or measuring caliper is also handy to have on-hand if any doubt for measuring before install - takes all guess work out of the equation. .. It did here.

Look forward to reading when you are up and running w/ the Camry again.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
50 Posts
Discussion Starter #35
Thanks CamryFL. I have a week to get the passenger half axle carrier bearing free of its mount. I have it sitting vertically with the transmission side up soaking the backside of the bearing with a 1/8" of PBBlaster. Will take put the mount in a vice and see if I can bang on that lip on the joint on the wheel side of the bearing. If that doesn't work, I might get one of these bearing separators and see if I can tighten it down under that lip and then get a couple of long bolts that fit the threads in the separator and take turns tightening down the bolts as they push against the mount and hopefully push the bearing separator/joint along with the carrier bearing in the opposite direction. That will only work if the holes n the separator are close enough so the bolts can push on the mount. We'll see.
 

·
'00 4 Cyl. Auto Camry LE
Joined
·
932 Posts
That may work, can only relay from my experience the bearing / carrier were badly rust-locked here, no amount of (human) or light-to-moderate mechanical force was getting the bearing out. Spent days (literally) "pushing, pulling, shoving, and cussing" at it, to no avail. Local shop owner kindly pressed out the (cut) bearing & axle piece w/ a 40 ton press in about 5 minutes. (Still shaking my head at the amount of time/effort I had "invested" in trying to remove myself here, sigh.) ... I did move the bearing about 1/4" out of the carrier - before conceding total defeat, LOL.

Best I can offer is HEAT is your friend, the hotter the better: getting that outer bearing carrier nice and hot .. a lot's o' PB Blaster ... will help to get the rust-bond broken.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
50 Posts
Discussion Starter #37
That may work, can only relay from my experience the bearing / carrier were badly rust-locked here, no amount of (human) or light-to-moderate mechanical force was getting the bearing out. Spent days (literally) "pushing, pulling, shoving, and cussing" at it, to no avail. Local shop owner kindly pressed out the (cut) bearing & axle piece w/ a 40 ton press in about 5 minutes. (Still shaking my head at the amount of time/effort I had "invested" in trying to remove myself here, sigh.) ... I did move the bearing about 1/4" out of the carrier - before conceding total defeat, LOL.

Best I can offer is HEAT is your friend, the hotter the better: getting that outer bearing carrier nice and hot .. a lot's o' PB Blaster ... will help to get the rust-bond broken.
What kind of shop did you contact? Would the shop have been able to press out the bearing the same way with the axle intact?
 

·
'00 4 Cyl. Auto Camry LE
Joined
·
932 Posts
It was the local repair shop in town - they also do heavy equipment / truck repairs: so were equipped with the necessary press to do the job.

re: press out the bearing w/ the axle intact - I don't see why not - if they used an appropriate vise / bearing cradle, with a socket, plate, etc. on the reverse side .. rotating the assembly, as they pressed,
 

·
short-throw dipstick
Joined
·
6,101 Posts
When reassembling, clean off all the rust (wire brush, or have a shop blast it clean and polish it smooth) and spray the bore and new intermediate shaft bearing with penetrating oil. I sprayed beatercam's with Aerokroil and it sat for about 2 years after the engine blew up. When it was time to do the swap, slid right out, still smelled of Aerokroil and was very wet (with the Aerokroil).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
183 Posts
I could not get mine to budge. I split the bottom of the carrier to release the axle bearing. Was many years ago but recall paying $120 or so for a new Toyota OEM mount. Based on my research I figured no way I was going to break axle loose using hand tools in my garage.


I was curious if anyone has any experience freeing a passenger side half axle that is frozen in the carrier bearing. I have used PB Blaster and a little heat and it has only moved a smidge using pry bars and tapping on the bearing itself with a hammer and punch.
 
21 - 40 of 78 Posts
Top