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Discussion Starter #41
It was the local repair shop in town - they also do heavy equipment / truck repairs: so were equipped with the necessary press to do the job.

re: press out the bearing w/ the axle intact - I don't see why not - if they used an appropriate vise / bearing cradle, with a socket, plate, etc. on the reverse side .. rotating the assembly, as they pressed,
Did you get a chance to see how they pressed out the bearing? Did they press on the bearing or on the shaft?
 

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Discussion Starter #42
Talked to a local shop and they want $95/hr to press it out. I actually have a 12ton harbor freight press. It isn't where I am working on the car, about 150 miles away.. But I may be heading that way in the next few days, just don't know if I can make an appropriate set up to try pressing the whole axle out. Pressing on the shaft would be much easier than pressing on the bearing.
 

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'00 4 Cyl. Auto Camry LE
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No, I didn't - I only brought in the bearing carrier, with the outboard CV shaft -> boot, and spider removed out of the spider cover (aka "dust cover"), and the (inner) shaft was cut off, close to the carrier assembly. They used a large impact socket that fit around the cut shaft (36? 38 mm) to press the inner shaft & bearing out -> through the reverse side.

Dunno what your long term plans for the vehicle are: if you haven't damaged or otherwise disturbed the bearing carrier / axle / axle bearing at this point: if it was here, and funds were the issue ($$$), I would just "mill down" the metal dowel pins w/ a metal grinder wheel to a point of providing some "guidance" on re-assembly, (their purpose is positioning, not structural) with the "caveat & understanding" that any -future- repair will probably require a replacement bearing carrier assembly, when the time comes along.

You were able to shoe-horn both the axle & carrier out on trans. removal: it should be possible to do the "reverse" on install. But again, like I've mentioned above, my experience doing so, with having to 'MacGuyver' the rear engine mount assembly attached to the carrier bracket at the same time on reinstall took awhile doing so here. * But it was a different motor, different setup - your experience may be easier, I hope.
 

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There is a circlip that hold the axle in the bearing. Remove that, and the shaft should slide out of the bearing. All of mine did.
Then it's a simple matter of hammering out the bearing, minding proper support of the carrier.
At least, that's how all of mine have gone.

P.S. I lived in northern Ill., before moving to southern WI. so the usual rust always applied.
 

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Discussion Starter #45
Circlip is long out. Videos show shaft "sliding" out as well but the rest isn't so simple..Maybe humidity in western WA makes a difference. Have hammered and PBBlasterd the thing. Tried heat as well while it was on the car but the corrosion is probably more on the top side I would imagine since the force of the retainer bolt would force it in that direction. Am going to try heat on the top, have had it soaking in PBBlaster. PBBlaster burns so hopefully it leaving a residue as it burns doesn't make it worse.
 

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Discussion Starter #46
Is replacing the rubber part of the motor mount possible? It seems a little floppy. Hard to tell due to the way it is constructed whether it is torn at all.
 

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Discussion Starter #47
The motor mount I am referring to is the same mount I am trying to get the carrier bearing out of.
 

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Discussion Starter #48
Heat and letting it soak in PBBlaster on the top leading edge of the bearing with some stiff hammering appears to have done the job. The carrier bearing is free!
 

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Discussion Starter #49
Other than the crank bolts taken off to replace the rear main seal, are there any other bolts I should definitely use thread locker on when putting things back together?
 

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'00 4 Cyl. Auto Camry LE
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Never used thread locker on the other bolts - always assembled dry, or w/ a very light coat of motor oil (if any chattering or binding felt when threading) before install -> and torque. I've always put a thin coat of never-seize on the crank bolt threads when doing a timing belt service before final install -> torque: never had any issues.

Those tiny bolts at the rear crank seal cover & oil pan: those are spec'd at ( 69 inch / lbs ), or ( 5.75 ft / Lbs ) of torque. About the force of lifting a gallon of milk. ... Careful not to over-torque them.
 

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Discussion Starter #52
I made a big mistake by not noting where the outer cv boot for the driver's side axle was mounted. The opening of the boot I got is way to big for #1, is just a little bigger than #2. #2 doesn't have a lip and looks like it will just slide off. Looking at pictures of the axles on Rock Auto, I don't see all the tiering and they look like the boot is mounted on #3 but the boot opening would have to be stretched quite a bit. i though I would ask before I make the wrong decision. Any ideas?
 

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Discussion Starter #53
Doh! Not sure why I had in my mind that it was the driver's side outer boot that was torn. Was trying to measure the shaft to figure out where the boot should attached and realized I was dealing with the splined shaft side of the axle. So dumb....
 

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1993 Camry SE,V6-5MT
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"Is replacing the rubber part of the motor mount possible?"

yes, the ATM version for the V6 is 12371-0A020, and costs around $45

Will need a press to push it in (freeze the rubber first, and apply some hand soap to slide it in easily).
 

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Discussion Starter #55
"Those tiny bolts at the rear crank seal cover & oil pan: those are spec'd at ( 69 inch / lbs ), or ( 5.75 ft / Lbs ) of torque. About the force of lifting a gallon of milk. ... Careful not to over-torque them."

Does the rear crank seal cover need to be removed to install the rear crank seal? The seal i got didn't come with a gasket for the cover. I was just going to install the seal by working it in around the crank.
 

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'00 4 Cyl. Auto Camry LE
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I don't think that is going to work, from prior experience on other motors: I always needed to remove the rear cover ( aka: rear oil seal retainer ) to clean it up / prep, before installing the new seal.

Edit: full disclosure, I have never installed a rear main seal on this v6 motor, maybe other TN folks w/ more experience can jump in here and provide better feedback.
 

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Discussion Starter #58
This is the driver's side seal. I rented one of those bearing kits from autozone and found one of the cylinders that fit just inside the flange. It seemed to be going in pretty well and then the top advanced below the lip and the bottom didn't. I used a half inch extension to try and tap the bottom side side in further. I guess I have two questions here: 1) Can the seal go too far in? and 2) as you can see from the picture, it appears I may have compromised the seal. Is there any forgiveness here, or will this seal probably leak. Thanks.
 

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'00 4 Cyl. Auto Camry LE
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re: rear crank seal - This may help:


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You should use a thin coat of multi-purpose grease on the seal, lip, and crank before install: "Ford-Lincoln-Mercury Moly-fortified MP Grease" is the go-to, fan favorite here.

I've also placed the seal in a freezer for a few hours, that should shrink / firm it up a bit - it did on the last front crank seal I did here. (Freeze dry, grease b4 install.)


If above is the CV axle seal - you can use clean ATF, as the seal lube before install. Yes, you can "put the seal too far in", if it gets racked, during install.
It's important the top face of the seal doesn't get deformed, the seal / bearing driver needs to contact the entire seal face to drive the seal in uniformly, no deformation. The face should be level, or slightly below the trans casing, uniformly. .. Wouldn't go further than 1/8", if below the trans casing.
 
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