Would you advise emptying the differential and the torque converter of the ATF? I drained the transmission but not the differential. I know the person that had the car before me added something that was supposed to stop the leak. I don't remember what it was but it seemed to be something that is pretty popular for trying to stop leaking transmission seals. I think it was a Lucas product. With how much leaking it has done and with emptying the transmission, most, if not all of it, is probably gone, but thought I would ask for a recommendation.
Only if it is convenient, won't make a mess, and not interfere w/ the repair.
I would recommend doing a short-interval drain-and-fill on both the differential and transmission after it's back on the road, ie: 2 weeks / 500 miles, to get any additive, sediment, etc. out of the trans & diff cases. ... Any torque converter contents remaining should be 'settled' into the refilled fluid -> trans case pan by then. ... *This short-interval service is no different than doing a short-interval oil change on a motor, that has had major work performed on it.
Is there special way to fill the differential after it is drained? I saw a video somewhere where the differential plug was taken out to drain it and then a fill plug was taken out to fill it. There is no fill plug on mine.
No separate fill plug for the Differential - (AFAIK) on the v6 / A541E trans, the Differential & Transmission (share) the same ATF fluid: so as you fill up the Transmission through the tube, the Differential will also fill. Just need to plan accordingly w/ some extra ATF fluid when doing the refill. ... Best advice I can give is to fill slowly to (full cold) level line, start vehicle for 10-15 seconds, recheck level, add more fluid: repeat until comfortable the level is correct. Then engage in gear, w/ foot on brake, 10-15 seconds, recheck level. * I know this is review, just affirming how it's done here.
* On the 4 cyl / A140E trans, there -is- a (separate) fill plug for the Diff, located on the back side / against the firewall. On the 4 cyl / A140E trans, it is recommended that you are able to access ->and open that upper Diff fill plug, before draining the Differential. (This is to ensure you can refill the Diff after draining; that you are not disabling the vehicle, while doing the service.)
Is there anything special I need to do to remove the crankshaft rear seal retainer? I took out the six bolts around the outside and the two on the bottom and it doesn't want to budge. I used a big screwdriver to pry on the tab on the bottom of the retainer but it still didn't move with reasonable force. There is sealant oozing (dried around the bottom edges but it looks like maybe too much was used when it was installed. I don't want to take a pry bar to it and break the retainer. Also do I need to drain the engine oil before I take off the retainer? Don't want a surprise mess...
Tried to wedge a really small screw driver under the retainer by tapping on the end of it lightly with a hammer but it didn't move. I'll just have to torque the bolts back down and install the seal on the car.
Transmission is ready to go in. Hopefully I didn't mess up the torque converter seal putting on the torque converter. It slipped in my hand while I was pushing the converter onto the shaft and the transmission was at a slight slant on the jack. The converter didn't want to engage with the transmission. I turned the converter while putting inward pressure on it expecting it to go in but it wouldn't go in. I lifted the converter a little while pushing and turning and it still would go so I jiggled a lttlle while lifting, turning, and pushing and it finally went in. Do I dare take it back off and check the seal? Is that possible without damaging the seal?
When I took the transmission out, I had a few issues with the dip stick tube and am worried I am going to have issues going back in. I looks like it is going to tangle with the battery holder on the way up. Does that tube come out? I saw someone take one out in an online video but the manual didn't say anything about removing it when I took it out.
Should the carrier bearing on the passenger side shaft slide in and out of the mount fairly easy? Or will it take some force to put it in? I wire brushed both the bearing and the inside of the mount but they don't mesh with ease. i put a little motor oil on both to see if that helped but it is going to take more than just sliding the carrier bearing into the mount to get them together. I guess I am worried about having to pound on the bearing to work it into the mount and what is going to happen to the transmission seal and how the inboard end will mesh with the transmission while I do that.
Tranny and subframe are in. Still need to deal with one of the lower transmission/engine bolts that broke on me while torquing to 34 ft-lbs. The two shorter bolts on the bottom of the transmission weren't torquing down. I pulled the other one that didn't break and it was obviously stretched. The torque rating on the two bolts (showing two dashes on the head) were rated at 32 ft-lbs of torque. I didn't get them past 30 before the one broke and the other showed signs of doing the same.
Just a note in the event anyone looks at this for reference in the future. The manual says to reverse the order of removing the tranny when reinstalling. One step that is done a few steps before the subframe is removed that I found should be done before torquing down the subframe is Step #25 in the manual. The bolt that positions the front middle motor mount from underneath needs to be installed prior to tightening down the subframe. The bracket that forms the bottom of the mount was out of position when i first started to tighten the subframe and I had to loosen up the front of the subframe in order to position the front mount with that bolt.
I was curious if sway bar links can be installed incorrectly. When I disconnected them from the sway bar, the link on the driver's side had the threads on the upper ball joint facing outward and the threads on the lower ball joint facing inward. The passenger side link was exactly the opposite, the threads of the upper were facing inward and the threads of the lower were facing outward. The picture in the manual shows both uppers with threads facing outward and the threads of the lower ball joints facing inward. Does it matter?