[fishy2706]

Greetings to all.
I love this forum and all the great ppl on it.
I have searched this site extensively for an answer to my problem but no success.
I have an 01 camry 5sfe, 124k miles. At 120k I changed the tb and water pump and replace the coolant. Immediately after, in traffic, the temp rises near the red before the fan comes on to bring temp back to normal. it seems that the cooling fan comes on too late. When i put the ac on, both fans are on and the temp stays in the middle. the temp is normal at highway speeds.Previous to the tb and wp, the temp always remained in the middle.

I have checked or done the following since:
1. replaced the thermostat with another Toy one and made sure jiggle valve is on top.
2. replaced fan switch even tho it check out ok. it went to open circuit at about 210 degrees
3. checked fan relays
4. Filled the cooling system several times using a large funnel sealed to the radiator opening.
Hope you can help.

 

[witstock]

I would check the radiator fan switch since this activate the fan.

 

[JohnGD]

Was the cooling system full? If there is air or it's not pressurized that can happen.

How's the condition of the radiator cap? I would use a Stant replacement with a spring loaded metal vacuum valve. Did you double, triple check the timing marks on the cam back cover and timing sprocket?

 

[witstock]

I am not sure about the 2001 but when I replace my timing belt on a 5fse engine ,even with head gasket, the engine start and run smoothly. If the the fact his car was running fine before he replace the tb and water pump and replace coolant causing overheat, I am sure he filled the coolant right and awared of the air in the cooling system. Like JohnGD said, I would check timing marks on cam and crankshaft and ignition timing recommended by Toyota which is located under the hood with the assumption that water thermostat and radiator fan switch are good. If these things are right, the engine should be right.

 

[fishy2706]

appreciate all the suggestions. just checked the ign timing and it's on the money. is it still nec to check timing marks on cam and crank. crazy problem continues.

 

[fishy2706]

do you know of any special procedure to fill or bleed the coolant?

 

[witstock]

My toyota Camry 1994 4 cylinder, last time I did was just leave the the coolant radiator cap open and fill up the radiator and start the car while the cap is off. Keep filling it until I could see and feel the coolant start to flow inside the upper and lower radiator hose and top the radiator up. Now I tighten the radiator cap and add coolant to the overflow coolant reservoir and watch the level as the engine start to warm up. I checked to make sure the radiator fan switch automatically turn on the cooling fan when engine has reached operating temperature. Finally I just check for leaks ect. and check coolant level in the next few days.
I know that Honda has bleeding screw to bleed the radiator other wise rpm will jerk up and down at idle. I do not think Toyota camry you will have to do that.
Again, I would check radiator fan switch and make sure it is correct temperature. How does it run? Very smooth? Hope it help and do not heaitate to ask if you have any problem.

 

[witstock]

If temperature gauge fluctuate up and down, it would be the water thermostat jmho. Good luck

 

[MyCamry01]

My experience

I have the 2001 4-Cyl LE Camry, 2 months ago (at 61k miles), I replaced Timing Belt, all seals, Water Pump+ Housing, all other belts, Thermostat and Valve Cover gaskets + plug seals.

Before starting the job, the first thing I did was to take the thermostat out and drained the old coolant completely (including the reservoir), then I re-filled with distilled water and let the engine idle for 10 minutes without thermostat and I did this twice (drain and refill) before I started the timing belt job (1 Gal distilled water is only 89 cents from Walmart).
I waited until engine cooled down before the 2nd refill, I don't want cracked engine!
Don't forget to turn the heater to max setting for the entire process.

After all the TB work was done, installed new thermostat, I disconnected the upper coolant host (from engine to radiator) and filled the engine from the upper radiator hose with around 3.5 liter of concentrated red toyota coolant (002721LLAC01), please note, I am filling the engine, not the radiator, then top off the rest with distilled water, reconnect the upper hose back to radiator and fill the radiator with distilled water until full.
The rest is to turn the engine on with radiator cap off, top off the radiator with distilled water.
Don't forget to fill the reservoir with 50:50 mix of coolant! And don't forget to check the water level after a few drive cycles!

The engine temp gauge always stays at 3 o'clock, just like it used to, the engine is more responsive I noticed, due to new timing belt probably.

That's all I did and have no problems so far (fingers crossed!).

 

[JohnGD]

No, there are no special procedures in filling these engines. Other engines do however.

Just to quickly verify, when the engine is cool, just remove the radiator cap. Is the radiator full? And again, how's the condition of the radiator cap? Any crud under the plastic valve? Does it seal?

do you know of any special procedure to fill or bleed the coolant?

 

[fishy2706]

rad cap, fan sw, thermos were replaced still have same prob. temp is perfect with ac on even in heavy traffic or highway driving with or without ac on. without ac it starts to act up again. this past weekend it sometimes acted almost normal in traffic. The temp ga would rise about 1/4" then fall back to center as fan ran. is there a fan computer? maybe it needs to be re-flashed? thanks again, jim

 

[JohnGD]

You already have a new fan switch, but if without AC it's acting up then double check the fan switch again. For example, pull the plug and see if the fan turns on (be careful of moving blades). Maybe some electrical wires were messed up. Dunno.

Another is air flow issue. Check the radiator fins and I wonder if the radiator is restricted internally. But your said it worked fine before the WP/TB work,so this is less likely.

 

[fishy2706]

already checked the fan by removing the connector. it works fine. tested the fan sw in hot water and it went to open circuit at 210 degrees. air flow thru rad is fine. there is something delaying the fan that is causing the temp to rise. does anyone know if the fan sw goes through the computer? might i need a reflash? where can i get a diagram of the fan circuit?

 

[witstock]

Water thermostat should be open between 180 -190 degree.
Radiator fan switch turns on around 200 degree
There is only an ECT switch which go to the ECU and the other go to the instrument gauge.
Please let us know if the problem is solved.

 

[deadrx7conv]

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/1...camry-2001-le-no-hot-coolant-circulation.html

Same issue. Burp the system. Pray that you didn't cook the head gasket when it went RED. Test for exhaust gases.

 

[JohnGD]

Right, did you check that the radiator is full when cold?

 

[fishy2706]

drained and filled 3x's. radiator is full, replaced therm, jiggle valve is at 12 o'clock; fan sw turns on at 210, fan goes on when disconnected, switched fan relay; radiator airflow is fine; temp is perfectly normal with ac on. No ac, same prob: fan comes on late. very confused ?????????????


thanks for all your suggestions.

 

[witstock]

Sorry you have gone through all these tests and same problem exist. Last option may be just to take to the "stealer" and pay them, not sure how much, $85 for diagnostic fee and take it from there. Good luck
I used to ask Ted Ritter, Certified auto mechanic, for advice if there is no solution.

 

[JohnGD]

Borrow a pressure tester from Autozone or O'Reilly loaner program (with refundable deposit). And check the system to see if it holds pressure. Just to make sure.

Also, does the rad hoses become pressurized when warm/hot?

 

[Silent Runner]

Lots of stuff done, old parts replaced with new ones, all the right checks/diagnostics done on all new cooling system components. If all the parts of the system are working, but the coolant gauge is still swinging around too much, except if the A/C system is on,... adding airflow to the system, and additional cooling to the system as it is working right now. Then maybe something is lacking in another one of those new components to be able to control the temperature in a normal operating manner. Are you confident about the quality of the new radiator, and water pump that were installed? If either one of these components were not allowing the right amount of coolant flow for your car, the symptoms you describe might occur. Example, a radiator for a non-A/C car, or a waterpump that is simply faulty, or sub-standard. Both of these might hang in there with additional cooling from the A/C system, but not make the grade without.

Just another couple of ideas.