I have a 2001 Toyota Camry LE with power locks. I am unable to use the key to lock/unlock the passenger-side front door. When I put the key in the door I am able to get roughly an 1/8th inch movement of the key. The power lock button on both front doors does lock/unlock all 4 doors though. I have removed the door panel on said door and don't see anything obvious that would be the source of the problem although it is difficult to see inside the door. Any thoughts or suggestions on what to look at and how to repair this?
2001 Toyota Camry LE-broken door lock
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Just to be clear, the key won't rotate very far? Probably just a worn out key. Go to a dealership with your VIN and they can cut a new one. Is it chipped?... That'll require reprogramming so the system recognizes it in the ignition switch.
Maybe more tumbler wear on drivers side, since it obviously gets more use, allowing more tolerance. But to be sure it's a key/lock issue, I would pull the handle and disconnect the actuator arms to see if the key behaves the same when the lock isn't pushing anything.
Do you have a second key to try and isolate between key and lock being at fault?
-Cope
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I had this problem on a 2000 RAV4. Dunno if it's the same for a Camry, or across Toyotas from this era, but here's what happens:
Toyota decided to use a two-piece wafer in the lock instead of the more common one-piece. When the halves wear after so many key insertions, they bind on each other and don't mate properly against the key, so don't get pushed into position and the cylinder won't turn. The solution, as per my knowledgeable local shop, is to remove the two pieces, as the lock is still nearly as secure. They charged me $50.
Toyota decided to use a two-piece wafer in the lock instead of the more common one-piece. When the halves wear after so many key insertions, they bind on each other and don't mate properly against the key, so don't get pushed into position and the cylinder won't turn. The solution, as per my knowledgeable local shop, is to remove the two pieces, as the lock is still nearly as secure. They charged me $50.
The passenger door tumbler should have the key code...at least for the older Toyota. If not , via vin.
It could be possible that someone tried to break into your car if the key won't turn. Any damage on the outer 'lip' of the keyhole. Does the key work fine in the trunk as well? You mention it works in the driver door fine.
It could be possible that someone tried to break into your car if the key won't turn. Any damage on the outer 'lip' of the keyhole. Does the key work fine in the trunk as well? You mention it works in the driver door fine.
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As others mentioned, the key and the driver's door lock wear simultaneously, so they continue to work together. The passenger side is rarely used by most. Get a new key made and chances are it'll work fine in both door locks.
Thanks for all the suggestions. I do have a duplicate key and tried it with the same results. Both keys worked on the trunk lock and the driver's side door lock. I don't see any exterior damage that indicates the lock has been tampered so I don't believe anyone tried to break into the vehicle. I will try getting a new key cut and go from there.
+1
I recently had a new key made from an oem blank, from a rarely used spare(no black). Ignition turned, door locked with key, and trunk unlocked. Problem was I couldn't unlock all doors with the key. As well as locking trunk, where the trunk release won't open it. As far as the ignition I didn't want to risk wearing it and having to switch ignition cylinder.
How did you resolve this issue with the ignition and the new key?
Sorry, should have been more clear the things I stated above were the reasons I had a new key made. My local locksmith company charges $30 to use Vin to get "code" from toyota. However I knew my spare was good b/c the ridges were a bit more pronounced. It also gave me no hesitation when turning. Which is why I opted for using my spare to make a fresh key.
Thank you for reporting back!
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