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Looking at an 02 Highlander for a friend. Supposed to have new tires & brakes. Timing belt recently done (6 cyl). AWD model. Anything else I should look for outside of struts, sway bar bushings and links, engine codes??? It has about 140K miles - would it be expected to run for another 100K if it was cared for?? Thanks in advance.
 

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Look for signs of engine sludging. If they aren't run on synthetic they will sludge and consume oil pretty badly through the PCV system. Look for my "PCV Reversal" for high oil consumption. Mine was consuming at a rate of a qt every 300 miles or so and is now consuming next to nothing between changes. Pre 2005 models are prone. Also look for oil leaks expecially around rear valve cover, and front oil seals. Many people leave the seals alone when they do a T-Belt and they can begin to leak quite profusely around 150k to 170k. Other than this pretty bulletproof cars. Of course fluid changes are called for and spark plugs if have not been done. Change trans fluid use ONLY either a TRUE Type IV Toyota fluid or a something that is a true Dexron III. Stay clear of fluids that say "compatible with" WS, Dexron VI and a few others. A really good fluid is Valvoline Import in the blue jug. And keep the snake oil additives out of it.
Also front and rear differential fluids should be done by now as well
So just a few things here for you
 

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Looking at an 02 Highlander for a friend. Supposed to have new tires & brakes. Timing belt recently done (6 cyl). AWD model. Anything else I should look for outside of struts, sway bar bushings and links, engine codes??? It has about 140K miles - would it be expected to run for another 100K if it was cared for?? Thanks in advance.
It will go more than 100k miles if all the things listed in last post are taken care of. Drive it and see how the trans shifts and if any slippage is felt, try to hear for unknown or sudden sounds and inspect where needed. If maintenance history is unavailable, you can take a mechanic and remove one of the valve covers to check for sludge. Sludge destroys these cars. If all good next thing would be to change trans/diff/transfer case fluids asap along with the plugs and wires.

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Pull the PCV, open the oil fill look for really dirty and sludgy deposits. Look at the dipstick as well. Also look for signs the car had oil changes with quality synthetic oil in a timely manner
 

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I agree with above. If sludge is bad you may be able to see some by removing the oil filler cap. Maybe you can look in with a Bluetooth borescope camera? I haven’t tried yet.

But check for heavy deposits around the OUTSIDE of the tailpipe.
Check for YouTube videos about checking a PCV system. There is the old vacuum hose-window screen-balloon over the dipstick tube trick to check for an adequate PCV.

Bad temperature control knob on the dash is another common issue. Listen for the blend door actuator hunting all the time.
 

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Also look for cracks in the plastic radiator tanks. They fail.
if they leak coolant it is usually around the water inlet plate between the heads and leaks down over the transmission.
Get more information about exactly what was replaced and if OEM parts were used when the timing belt was done. The entire kit including water pump should have been done with OEM parts of you want to go another 100k.
Struts are probably worn out if they haven’t been replaced.
 

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Parking brake design has some issues and may not properly release, especially in Corrosion Country. A good way to check is with an IR temp gun. Read the directions so you know how to get an accurate measurement. Compare all 4 wheels after the test drive.
 
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