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Discussion Starter #1
My buddy's 2002 Camry V6 (1MZ-FE) started throwing a knock sensor code. He's been resetting it on long drives to regain overdrive - but this week we decided to finally fix it. I have time off work (thanks COVID) so we're taking the opportunity to do some maintenance. The car runs good otherwise, but he'd like to keep it that way. I just wanted to run our plan past this community to see if I'm missing anything. All the parts are ordered (RockAuto) but if there's something I missed I can probably get it locally.

Another point to consider. Assuming I get another week off sometime in August, we're planning on doing the timing belt and anything associated with that work (water pump, tensioners, shaft seals, etc.). So if it can be done during that round, I've left it out of this round. I'm pretty much limiting this work to stuff that requires the plenum to be pulled (or at least makes it easier).

Knock sensors
I ordered SMP knock sensors (KS159) from Rock Auto (not the less expensive T-Series). We'll see how they do. I know it's risky not going OEM on this, but they were half the price of OEM and double the price of the cheapest ones. I think this is a good compromise. If there's a brand on them when I get them, I'll share the info here. I also bought a new harness (SMP J72002).

Bypass hose
Nothing really to mention here. It's ACDELCO part number 14905S. Think I can get away with reusing the old hose clamps or should I buy new? I don't think the new hose comes with them. I've hear others complain about the worm gear style clamps.

Valve cover gaskets
Both valve covers are leaking. The car failed inspection because of them, so that definitely needs to be addressed. I bought a Fel-Pro set that includes the spark tube seals (VS50471R).
  • I've read conflicting information about the proper orientation for Fel-Pro tube seals. What side goes UP? If there is a definitive answer I'd appreciate it!
  • I've never removed/resealed the "half moon" pieces before, but it seems like that's a good idea while I'm there.
  • I saw one tutorial that mentioned resealing one of the caps on the cam. Any additional details on that would be appreciated. Is this necessary? What exactly do I seal?
  • I'm planning on adding washers under the heads of the bolts, as the factory crush washers are now crushed. Is this still advisable or should I track down factory bolts.
  • My worst fear is that I get these back together and they leak again!!! I would really like to avoid that.
PCV
Seems like this is a good idea whenever you change valve cover gaskets. I bought SMP V488 along with the grommet GV21.

Intake manifold gasket set
Since I'll have the plenum off. I bought Fel-Pro MS92766 as it looked pretty complete. I couldn't find any actual details on what this kit comes with. Upper and lower for sure, but it looks like maybe it includes new EGR gaskets too.

Spark plugs
I went with the NGK Laser Iridiums (4589). Probably could have gone with the IX but I'm sure these are going to work out just fine for a long time.

Ignition coils
Maybe I'm being too cautious here, but I'm replacing the rear 3 ignition coils. I recently had one fail on my personal vehicle. It just seems smart while it's all apart. I'm using DENSO coils (6731301 [673-1301]). I'll leave the fronts for now. They're easy to get to and aren't causing any problems.

Injector seals
Maybe not necessary to replace these, but on a previous job (different vehicle) I damaged a seal and was at the mercy of whatever the big box stores carry. I thought it best to have them on hand anyway. If they're easy to replace, I'll do so. I'll sleep better knowing the car won't go up in flames. Beck/Arnley 1580894 (158-0894)

Thermostat
I'll have the coolant drained anyway. Might as well. I bought AISIN THT019 along with the seal.

Coolant
Pentosin A1 (red). Lots of different opinions out there on pink/red etc. This was my final choice. Hope it's ok.

Oil and Filter
Denso filter, 5W-30 full synthetic, new plug gasket. Nothing special there.

I've been referencing a few other posts for this work. Most notably this one from Kingdom934. I know it's a generation older but it looks like the general process is similar. It looks like the job isn't very physical - but more mental. Tedious. Please let me know if there is any advice that will make this go easier. I really appreciate it!
 

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OK, here’s my opinion on various bits for what it’s worth:

Knock Sensors – common maintenance item and the aftermarket versions from reputable makers are almost certain to be fine. The electronics involved are not rocket science.

Bypass Hoses – Really, it depends on the age. If the OEM used the spring type clamp that’s what I’d use again. And, blasphemous to some, I know, I’ve reused these plenty of times over the years without having any issue.

Valve Cover Gaskets – If you have a question regarding orientation, there’s nothing like contacting the maker via the support page on their website or e-mail. If there’s anything special you need to do, and it’s not already mentioned in the actual instructions that come with the part, the maker is your best source for that information.

Spark Plugs – It’s very hard to go wrong with anything from NGK that’s recommended by their plug search for your car. And you’ve gone high end.

Ignition Coils – How easy are these to get to? I had a Jaguar where each and every one was simple to reach, and could be changed out at roadside in under 15 minutes (I kept a basic tool kit and hot mits in my trunk). The OEM units on that car were also Denso, and you could never predict if/when one would go out. I had some that were original to the car that lasted 14 years while others that were replaced gave out. Given my track record with this, and Denso ignition coils in general, I’d be far more inclined to leave well enough along and carry the new units with me should I need them. Of course, if you decide to go that route you need to have an OBD reader constantly available, which is easy these days with inexpensive OBD adapters that work via Bluetooth to a smartphone with various OBD apps. You can’t be guessing which cylinder has had its coil fail.

Coolant – I don’t care what brand, or what color, if it meets the specification that Toyota notes in your owner’s manual it will be fine. They’re not as specific in the 2002 Camry owner’s manual as they are in the 2004, saying only that it has to be ethylene glycol based (pretty much everything is), have aluminum corrosion inhibitor (vast majority do). If you have access to an old bottle of Toyota Long Life Coolant see what spec it meets.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for your feedback!
aftermarket versions from reputable makers are almost certain to be fine
The box from RockAuto just arrived. The SMP (Intermotor) knock sensors (KS159) aren't branded in any way. Made in Taiwan. The only number on them is 20007 (laser marked) and A2 which is hand engraved through the plastic packaging. I'm going to install them and hope for the best
If you have a question regarding orientation, there’s nothing like contacting the maker via the support page on their website or e-mail
Good idea! I called them and they were able to confirm that the visible spring should face the hood of the car when installed. So we'll go with that!

Only thing I'm not confident about at this point is sealing the half-moons and the "cap" with RTV (or FIPG).
 

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Since you’ve got the plenum off you may want to address cleaning both sides of the throttle body. All you need is spray throttle body cleaner and perhaps a gasket as most aren’t reusable. Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I'm about halfway through this project. Aside from rounding off one of the lower EGR tube bolts - this hasn't been too bad. However, I'm starting to replace the injector seals and am noticing the new ones look different. See below photos. This is Beck/Arnley part number 158-0894. I confirmed through their website this is definitely the right part number. (it fits A LOT of different cars)

I've never done the seat seals before (only the o-rings). Does anyone know if these seat seals are designed to deform under compression from the fuel rail bolts?

The old ones look flared out on the top, such that it forms a counterbore surrounding the first metal lip of the injector. They also have a thin collar on the bottoms that hug the injector cap. They are the same overall thickness (old vs new) but the new one sits much lower on the injector due to that counterbore. It almost looks like this happens when they get squashed down and then over time they get permanently set like this. If that's the case - no problem with that. But if this is wrong I don't want to put it all back together.

OLD is on the left. NEW is on the right (both images)

20200703_092921.jpg 20200703_092522.jpg

Notes for anyone else doing this:
I'm using Vaseline (petroleum jelly) as an assembly lube with the assumption that fuel will wash it away once it's served its purpose. When replacing the O-rings, don't pull the O-ring towards the thin plastic ring. Pull it backwards FIRST to get it started then grab it and stretch it forwards over the thin plastic. I stupidly did it the other way on a previous job and broke one of the little plastic rings. Won't make that mistake again.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I think I answered my own question. Looking at new/refurbished injectors available online, they all look like mine with the new seat seal. So I'm assuming this is how they should look new and they deform under pressure/heat/age.

But... in removing the old seals I noticed that 3 of the injectors have cracked plastic. Cylinders 2, 4 and 6. See photo below. I'm reading different opinions on this. Some say the car will go up in flames! Others say it's only a protective housing for the metal internals and will never sees fuel pressure. I'm running out of time to get this car back together. I don't want to do anything unsafe - but if this is just a protective housing I don't see why they can't be reinstalled without issue. Wondering if anyone else had any thoughts based on the below photo.

20200703_103209.jpg
 
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