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hi all,

after searching reading numerous threads on the above topic, i was wondering where i can buy kyb complete strut sort of like the monroes and gabriels complete strut. If i can't then what is the best alternative brand to buy almost OE for the 5 strut parts?

If not i will be buying separate parts as people here don't like the ride quality on the monroes and gabriels compared to kyb.

i will buy kyb strut @ rockauto but consider replacing strut mount, spring, dust boot cover, rubber seal for the bottom of the strut or can i just reuse all the parts except the strut itself?. I was thinking of reusing the mount, spring and rubber seal and just replacing the dust cover as i can see it tore already.

also, should i do all 4 or just the front. the car has 116k miles and is bouncy or it doesn't matter what brand i use for the 4 parts, strut mount, spring, dust boot cover, and rubber seals they all will fit the kyb strut?

i have this tool to compress the spring and i think this seems pretty safe here: https://www.amazon.com/ABN-MacPherson-Strut-Spring-Compressor/dp/B00SX5RSA4/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1473784038&sr=1-2-spons&keywords=spring+compressor&psc=1

much thanks to all for input and help.

peace out.
 

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I don't know of any quick struts by KYB. I bought the struts here: http://www.ebay.com/itm/4-KYB-Excel-G-Struts-Shock-2-Front-2-Rear-Toyota-Lexus-/350727532761

Those spring compressors will only work well on the back struts. The front struts are conical and have the upper mount that makes it very difficult. I would recommend getting something like it shows in the FSM. Like this: https://www.amazon.com/Goplus®-MacP...2&keywords=macpherson+strut+spring+compressor
What are your driving impressions for those struts? Another item that's on my "TO DO" list...

Thanks for the info...Jody
 

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I did the struts on my Avy. KYB excel-G. Used the single action compressor from HF. Worked well and fast. I remember taking pics. They are on SD card my kid put somewhere. It had these and other wheel bearing pics.

Don't know about Moog assy but most common here is Monroe quick strut if not going kyb route.

http://www.harborfreight.com/single-action-strut-spring-compressor-43753.html

But I know someone from another forum that used that other mentioned compressor. Seems very easy to use and works on bigger van struts too.
 

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I don't know of any quick struts by KYB. I bought the struts here: http://www.ebay.com/itm/4-KYB-Excel-G-Struts-Shock-2-Front-2-Rear-Toyota-Lexus-/350727532761

Those spring compressors will only work well on the back struts. The front struts are conical and have the upper mount that makes it very difficult. I would recommend getting something like it shows in the FSM. Like this: https://www.amazon.com/Goplus®-MacP...2&keywords=macpherson+strut+spring+compressor

What do you think would be a reasonable charge to have those 4 struts installed on my car? I know a local Toyota tech who works on the side, and he basically charges half the price the dealer would charge. Thanks.
 

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Before I did my struts first time ever, I asked my mechanic. He said $35 per side for car or $50 each in van. This was to swap out with KYB struts I purchased. If say it is kyb strut plus (my van had one available) or quick strut, you can do it yourself if you other diys yourself. It is taking out old full strut assembly and put on new. On the van it was 30-45 mins per side when I used strut plus as a comparison. Prices range from $35-75 depending on the area.

Usually you can check with any small tire shop for prices.
 

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Out with the old...



In with the new...



Parts...I linked the Moog struts above.



Cost:
Struts - $120ea= ~$250 shipped
Front Brembo blanks with genuine toyota front pads off eBay for $170 shipped

I still need an alignment, so add another ...call it ~$180 for ease of math...so my total will come to ~$600 when it's all said and done. Doh, I forgot I'll be getting new tires before I do an alignment so that'll be another chunk!

**First driving impressions for the struts are average for aftermarket, non-genuine toyota parts...will continue to monitor and report back. However, the install was SUPER easy because everything was just remove and reinstall.
 

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Struts will take a bit to adjust themselves. If you haven't already, replacing your sway bar links might not be a bad idea. Also retorque the strut bolts after 100 or so miles.

For alignment, Sears has a lifetime alignment for $180. Catch is that if they don't do any of the suspension work on your car after the alignment, the warranty is void though.
 

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Your timing of parts worked out great, combining with new brake parts. Since many get the Monroe quickstruts, Moog is probably about the same. Someone in the camry forum got the Detroit Axle assemblies. Yeah it would be good to know how Moog assemblies hold up, thanks for updates.
 
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Yes surgeon, I definitely planned it that way! :)

The MOOGs, so far, are just 'acceptable' in my opinion...I'm hearing a very slight noise upon first compression when going over a bump...and they seem a bit more bouncy than whatever was on there before - it wasn't stock though.
 

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Struts will take a bit to adjust themselves. If you haven't already, replacing your sway bar links might not be a bad idea. Also retorque the strut bolts after 100 or so miles.

For alignment, Sears has a lifetime alignment for $180. Catch is that if they don't do any of the suspension work on your car after the alignment, the warranty is void though.
Maybe it depends on the store. I've never had a problem going back in and getting it done under warranty, even with shiny new parts installed.
 

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I was thinking the new MOOG struts had a slight clunk in them when going over bumps at slow speed but now I'm thinking I may need to replace the end links. I'll need to get up under there again and do some poking around.
 

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If the end links are gone, you would be able to just move (wiggle) them with your hands. If you already notice grease then no need to check further. I usually put a big piece of cardboard on the ground, lie down and reach in. I avoid full drive up ramps or jacking up for this, saves time.
 

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Also on a different note, related topic... instead of making a new thread, keeping info together here for same year ...

For those that had Avalon for a while, how much lean or nose-dive is normal for these boat-drive on 2nd gen Avalons? I know the suspension is soft.

Mine is less than 80K and my front OEM strut springs seem weak. I have kyb struts but noticed nose dive on braking.

How long do/did the oem springs normally last? I know after 100K or so, its considered weak?
 

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Also on a different note, related topic... instead of making a new thread, keeping info together here for same year ...

For those that had Avalon for a while, how much lean or nose-dive is normal for these boat-drive on 2nd gen Avalons? I know the suspension is soft.

Mine is less than 80K and my front OEM strut springs seem weak. I have kyb struts but noticed nose dive on braking.

How long do/did the oem springs normally last? I know after 100K or so, its considered weak?
I bought mine from a dealer who replaced 1 strut that was "bad". Needless to say.. all were bad but they only replaced one. It would SCRAPE the ground if you hit the brakes more than 60%.

Replaced them all and now nose dives a little bit but not like it used to.

EDIT: Forgot to include.. 190k on them and 3 appeared to be OEM.... I recommend replacing soon if you're experiencing a lot of nose dive.
 

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Thanks Stuffing. My nose dive is "some" and I do not scrape yet. I will do some quick braking and accelerating checks tonight. I think I will order Moog springs if its time. I see now why the car shakes even with low speed pass-by of not just trucks but also equivalent cars.
 

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If the end links are gone, you would be able to just move (wiggle) them with your hands. If you already notice grease then no need to check further. I usually put a big piece of cardboard on the ground, lie down and reach in. I avoid full drive up ramps or jacking up for this, saves time.
The end links can still feel tight when checking by hand yet still be too loose. The clunking sound most people hear is the end link ball joint bolt not being tightened down well enough and slapping the sway bar bolt hole as the car bounces. Grease on the end links only means the boot around the ball joint is failing, still a good idea to replace at that point, but it does not mean that they are bad or causing any noise.

And cardboard is one of the best shade tree mechanic tools. I have a place that gives me 100 4' x 4' sheets a year. They are tops off skids and they normally just recycle them once removed.
 
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