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This topic sure has had its share of discussions, but I thought I would post a couple of things that will hopefully help others.

There is an engine coolant drain on this engine or mine anyway. It is located on the left side of the engine below the A/C compressor. It's a little tight down there but with a little patience and a small 10mm wrench you can open the drain. It will splash on the edge of the plastic cover underneath but you can use one of those skinny funnels (I call them transmission fluid funnels) to direct the stream into the pan. It's placement is a tight fit too.

My initial drain of the coolant on the cold engine was from the radiator. Once it stopped I drained it from the engine itself. Maybe a pint or two came out of the engine drain with a total of about a gallon - gallon and a half. Dumped the reservoir too.

I filled the radiator with water for the first flush using one of those Lisle funnels that comes with one of the radiator cap adapters/extensions and brought the engine to temperature. It took two flushes to to get the water to come clear.

There also has been a lot of discussion about what coolant to use. I used the Zerex Asian coolant. The manual said 6.6 quarts which was pretty close to what I was able to put in including the reservoir.

I emptied close to 5 gallons of coolant and water combined for the flush.

Hope this helps.
Axtell
 

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Non-silicated coolants don't leave much if anything for deposits. So, if you use red/pink or equivalent coolant, no flush is needed. Just drain the radiator/block/bottle and refill. Repeat per mileage/years as needed. Pink and equivalent Zerex/Recochem/OEM/BA/Pentofrost.... are all excellent 5yr/50k coolants. Red is 2yr/24k .
 
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