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Vaporisor- No worries. So if I've been using 85 grade fuel, and if I'm understanding correctly, I should switch to 87 grade? If it helps, its hours of operation aren't that much.

75aces- No. 90% of the time, it's just me in the car.

Kevcules- Thanks for the info! I was NOT looking forward to spending the $$ on new injectors!

Get ready, everybody... Here's what you've been waiting for...
Well, want to use what minimum grade for car is. I think most all cars are designed for 87. Though octane is mainly for anti knock. Would have to be pretty bad swill to have no energy. But wouldnt hurt to run a tank of good 87 through. As said, seafoam is good stuff.
 

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Those plugs look new and burning fine. Are they the proper plugs for your car?
Your engine looks to be healthy. I wonder if the transmission is somehow causing excessive fuel mileage?
Are you calculating the mileage correctly? 😀 With your reported low mileage, your plugs should be black
Weird…
 

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Those plugs look new and burning fine. Are they the proper plugs for your car?
Your engine looks to be healthy. I wonder if the transmission is somehow causing excessive fuel mileage?
Are you calculating the mileage correctly? 😀 With your reported low mileage, your plugs should be black
Weird…
For a modern cars, those look excellent. Most cars are tunes to run a bit lean (which is why so much cooling cause run hot) They do look clear, but potentially old from the rust dust on electrode. Doesnt affect them if just visual, but if gap off or electrode eroded, might have an issue.

Have you changed plug on it or know how old? I dont recognize what I can see of the stamp on the insulator, but whomever put them in knows maintenance. I see antiseize nickelcote on threads and liberal use of dielectric grease!
 

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Looks like you have oil on your coils. You will eventually have misfire on cylinder 1 and 2. Not that it could be related to your mpg.
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 · (Edited)
Vaporisor- So when I get through my tank of 85 grade, I should refill it with 87 grade AND Seafoam? Even with running Lucas injector cleaner 2 tanks ago? The spark plugs in the pictures were new/replaced in early 2019. I'll post the part number later today.

Kevcules46- Sweet! "Are they the proper plugs for your car"? I don't know, I'm just going off what Napa pulled up. Is the industry still doing the too hot/cold scale (like in the 1950's)? IF the trans is causing excessive fuel consumption, I am definitely not opening that can of worms. I've been calculating MPG like so: Miles driven (divided by) gallons to refill. Right?! And 100% agreed.

75aces- Yeah, there's a little bit. Cylinder 1 will probably start misfiring before cylinder 2 (right?), and when that happens, do I have to replace all the coils at the same time? Or can it be as necessary?

I cleaned the maf sensor, and it's a little peppier/zippier. Will clean the throttle plate later today.
 

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Vaporisor- So when I get through my tank of 85 grade, I should refill it with 87 grade AND Seafoam? Even with running Lucas injector cleaner 2 tanks ago? The spark plugs in the pictures were new/replaced in early 2019. I'll post the part number later today.

Kevcules- Sweet! "Are they the proper plugs for your car"? I don't know, I'm just going off what Napa pulled up. Is the industry still doing the too hot/cold scale (like in the 1950's)? IF the trans is causing excessive fuel consumption, I am definitely not opening that can of worms. I've been calculating MPG like so: Miles driven (divided by) gallons to refill. Right?! And 100% agreed.

75aces- Yeah, there's a little bit. Cylinder 1 will probably start misfiring before cylinder 2 (right?), and when that happens, do I have to replace all the coils at the same time? Or can it be as necessary?

I cleaned the maf sensor, and it's a little peppier/zippier. Will clean the throttle plate later today.
The oil intrusion is due to spark plug tube seals. I had oil intrusion on cylinder 3 and 4. Replaced my valve cover gasket and spark plug tube seals. Along with a set of plugs and coils. The reason I swapped coils was due to a test I performed when cylinder 4 misfired. I moved it to cylinder 1 and then got multiple misfire on 1 and posted 4. But cylinder 1 coil was not misfiring.
 

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Okies on the plugs. Provided correct gap, then those plugs look good, at least not rich.

...You dont have a heavy foot do you?

Actually, I just did some reading on 85 octane because tbh, had never seen it in my travels. It seems like that is a special fuel that is sold mainly in the mountain areas because lower octane helps carbureted vehicles at the high altitudes. But sounds like that could be a contender. Your plugs definitely are not what plugs getting too much fuel looks like, and if you had bad rings, you would have oil burning. No signs of that.

What is the ethanol rating on that stuff?

But yeah. Reading elsewhere, give er a good run with lower ethanol 87 (10% is what is normal) and perhaps a different retailer if possible.

It may sound odd, but different manufacturer gas of same octane can run different. I rode through the midwest on a old carbureted KLR Kawasaki a few years back and this was really noticable depending on whose gas and what the ethanol content was even if the octane was the same.

It is an easy test, and at worst will be cheaper than any part replacement. Let it run down to low in the tank, try one of good 87, if it seems better then can give another run!
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
75aces- In order to stop the leak, I'd have to do what this guy does, at the 32 minutes mark?

Vaporisor- I try not to. Especially because I'd rather get the mileage, than the speed. The ethanol rating is anywhere from 0%-10%. Haha, no kidding on the "cheaper than any part replacement".

John Anthony- I checked the trans fluid a few days ago, and I'd guess it was still 60% pink.

Got the spark plug part #: NGK 4996
 

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Either replace the tube seals or try silicone like the video. By the looks of your spark plugs though, the oil leaking into the cylinder isn't an issue right now.
The plugs you haven't are not OEM. The proper plug is a Denso SK16R11. If your engine is running smooth and has lots of pep, the NGK plugs are probably ok. I know having the wrong spark plugs will make an engine spark knock, idle rough and work like crap. But, by the way yours are burning, they are probably OK.
Are you making any progress?
 

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Clean your MAF, check for vacuum leaks especially around your intake manifold gasket. The original one fails often. Toyota revised the part and is orange. You're running lean which means less air and more fuel.

The computer is compensating for this and your fuel trims are maxed out. Which also means your cat converter is dead. It melted itself. If you hit the cat, does it have broken pieces?
 

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looks like vasoline or even chapstick on the boot ends of your plugs.. i've put a little bit of the contact dieletric grease on the ends of plugs before, but it never looked that thick. possibly the previous owner used the wrong stuff and now your plugs aren't firing fully??
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 · (Edited)
Vaporisor- I almost forgot to answer your question... On a scale of 1-10 (clean-dirty), the tail pipe is a 2.

Kevcules46- Next set of plugs will be Denso, thanks for the info!

75aces- Quite the informative video! Maf sensor has been cleaned, still need to clean the throttle plate. I sprayed the intake manifold with carb cleaner, and the gasket is fine. It's been a nightmare to try and find somewhere that'll tell me what its fuel trims are. But I'll definitely post what they are, when I can get them. IF my cat was dead, wouldn't it be throwing a code? Because, again, it's not throwing any codes. I don't know, I'll be taking it back to the shop that replaced it, and see if they'll help me out.

Rich_d- It's probably just thickened up, after being on there for 2 years (and almost 2 months). I doubt there's anything wrong with the plugs, because the car idles and accelerates just fine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 · (Edited)
Hoopitup2000- It's not the brakes. 1-2 months ago, I had Les Schwab do a free brake inspection (mostly to find out how much lining was left). And unless they sucked at their job, I'm still getting the same mpg.

I worked on my Corolla earlier today. I sprayed brake cleaner on any pcv and maf lines I could follow- no fluctuations. After some thinking, I THINK the main problem is the NGK spark plugs. And maybe the replacement pcv valve (part # CRB 2-9553)? Because it suddenly clicked: On the exact same day (04/05/19)... I had the CAT, PCV, and spark plugs changed. And ever since then, I've been losing MPG. Even with all the other things I've done afterwards (including a new timing chain tensioner, and a new timing belt). I will also, still post the STFT and LTFT when I can get them. Am I wrong, thinking it won't take more than 5 min, to obtain JUST the STFT/LTFT?
 

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Hoopitup2000- It's not the brakes. 1-2 months ago, I had Les Schwab do a free brake inspection (mostly to find out how much lining was left). And unless they sucked at their job, I'm still getting the same mpg.

I worked on my Corolla earlier today. I sprayed brake cleaner on any pcv and maf lines I could follow- no fluctuations. After some thinking, I THINK the main problem is the NGK spark plugs. And maybe the replacement pcv valve (part # CRB 2-9553)? Because it suddenly clicked: On the exact same day (04/05/19)... I had the CAT, PCV, and spark plugs changed. And ever since then, I've been losing MPG. Even with all the other things I've done afterwards (including a new timing chain tensioner, and a new timing belt). I will also, still post the STFT and LTFT when I can get them. Am I wrong, thinking it won't take more than 5 min, to obtain JUST the STFT/LTFT?
spraying brake cleaner on MAF sensor isnt a good thing.. there is specific spray for the MAF sensor.
 
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