Well, want to use what minimum grade for car is. I think most all cars are designed for 87. Though octane is mainly for anti knock. Would have to be pretty bad swill to have no energy. But wouldnt hurt to run a tank of good 87 through. As said, seafoam is good stuff.Vaporisor- No worries. So if I've been using 85 grade fuel, and if I'm understanding correctly, I should switch to 87 grade? If it helps, its hours of operation aren't that much.
75aces- No. 90% of the time, it's just me in the car.
Kevcules- Thanks for the info! I was NOT looking forward to spending the $$ on new injectors!
Get ready, everybody... Here's what you've been waiting for...
For a modern cars, those look excellent. Most cars are tunes to run a bit lean (which is why so much cooling cause run hot) They do look clear, but potentially old from the rust dust on electrode. Doesnt affect them if just visual, but if gap off or electrode eroded, might have an issue.Those plugs look new and burning fine. Are they the proper plugs for your car?
Your engine looks to be healthy. I wonder if the transmission is somehow causing excessive fuel mileage?
Are you calculating the mileage correctly? 😀 With your reported low mileage, your plugs should be black
The oil intrusion is due to spark plug tube seals. I had oil intrusion on cylinder 3 and 4. Replaced my valve cover gasket and spark plug tube seals. Along with a set of plugs and coils. The reason I swapped coils was due to a test I performed when cylinder 4 misfired. I moved it to cylinder 1 and then got multiple misfire on 1 and posted 4. But cylinder 1 coil was not misfiring.Vaporisor- So when I get through my tank of 85 grade, I should refill it with 87 grade AND Seafoam? Even with running Lucas injector cleaner 2 tanks ago? The spark plugs in the pictures were new/replaced in early 2019. I'll post the part number later today.
Kevcules- Sweet! "Are they the proper plugs for your car"? I don't know, I'm just going off what Napa pulled up. Is the industry still doing the too hot/cold scale (like in the 1950's)? IF the trans is causing excessive fuel consumption, I am definitely not opening that can of worms. I've been calculating MPG like so: Miles driven (divided by) gallons to refill. Right?! And 100% agreed.
75aces- Yeah, there's a little bit. Cylinder 1 will probably start misfiring before cylinder 2 (right?), and when that happens, do I have to replace all the coils at the same time? Or can it be as necessary?
I cleaned the maf sensor, and it's a little peppier/zippier. Will clean the throttle plate later today.
spraying brake cleaner on MAF sensor isnt a good thing.. there is specific spray for the MAF sensor.Hoopitup2000- It's not the brakes. 1-2 months ago, I had Les Schwab do a free brake inspection (mostly to find out how much lining was left). And unless they sucked at their job, I'm still getting the same mpg.
I worked on my Corolla earlier today. I sprayed brake cleaner on any pcv and maf lines I could follow- no fluctuations. After some thinking, I THINK the main problem is the NGK spark plugs. And maybe the replacement pcv valve (part # CRB 2-9553)? Because it suddenly clicked: On the exact same day (04/05/19)... I had the CAT, PCV, and spark plugs changed. And ever since then, I've been losing MPG. Even with all the other things I've done afterwards (including a new timing chain tensioner, and a new timing belt). I will also, still post the STFT and LTFT when I can get them. Am I wrong, thinking it won't take more than 5 min, to obtain JUST the STFT/LTFT?