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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I’ve searched all over and tried multiple things and am getting close to setting it on fire. Car is fine 99 percent of the time but then goes into fits of basically shutting on and off for a split second . Occasionally so bad it will die completely. Usually it’s also makes a real quiet dying buzzer sound in the dash when it’s getting ready to happen. Things tried that have not helped are a new fuel pump, ignition switch and alternator but that was just an unrelated bearing failure. Throw your ideas at me and I’ll experiment and let you know what works.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I just have a cheap code reader. Never had a check engine light but it had a stored code for a bad crank sensor, which I replaced with a Toyota one. May have to take it to someone with better equipment.
 

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2015 Sienna LE, 2016 Camry LE
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Could a be a dozen things. How many miles, when does it happen? What’s the service history?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
185,000 miles. It’s extremely random when it happens, everything is fine then suddenly the tach goes 2500 to zero back and forth like you’re flipping a light switch on and off fast as you can. It will carry on a minute or two then run fine for 20 minutes to possibly two days before doing it again. The service history is unknown, I bought it a year and half ago with destroyed bearings in the rear of the 5 speed that ate 4th and 5th gear. I rebuilt the tranny and have put around 10,000 on it. Took it in for a airbag recall, did a basic tune up, replaced leaking gaskets, bunch of other minor neglect repairs. I’m great at wrenching and absolutely terrible at chasing electrical demons.
 

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That def sounds electrical. Have you looked at the throttle body and the IAC?
 

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マズダスピード3
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I saw a video recently in which the creator of the video had a faulty crankshaft position sensor. It was an OEM Denso part.

Which version of the intake manifold do you have installed on your car?

 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I did replace the iac after buying and had forgotten already, it was one from Toyota. I replaced the intake gaskets when I replaced the valve cover gasket , throttle body gasket and rear main seal. I also cleaned the throttle body and maf a couple weeks ago hoping that might help but did not. I replaced the crankshaft sensor last week because a stored code but I guess it’s always possible it’s a dud.
 

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I did replace the iac after buying and had forgotten already, it was one from Toyota. I replaced the intake gaskets when I replaced the valve cover gasket , throttle body gasket and rear main seal. I also cleaned the throttle body and maf a couple weeks ago hoping that might help but did not. I replaced the crankshaft sensor last week because a stored code but I guess it’s always possible it’s a dud.
Did you connect the hidden vacuum hose behind the intake manifold? Many have missed that.
 

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Toyota will not program a used ECM for you FYI. Does this happen while you are driving or while idling?
 

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Used ecus run around 50$ at the junkyard.

I'd check your ground points around the engine bay.
 

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Depending on your year you cannot just plug in a replacement ECU. The VIN is programmed into the ECU and the keys (if chipped) are programmed to the car by the ECU. All of that programming requires the dealership.

You may be able to get away with it if you don’t have chipped keys but I doubt it.
 

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Depending on your year you cannot just plug in a replacement ECU. The VIN is programmed into the ECU and the keys (if chipped) are programmed to the car by the ECU. All of that programming requires the dealership.

You may be able to get away with it if you don’t have chipped keys but I doubt it.
He will be fine with an 03-04 ECU since the op does not have a transponder key model. This started in 05.

The vin was not recorded to the ECU also in 05 MY.
 

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2005 Corolla CE
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Depending on your year you cannot just plug in a replacement ECU. The VIN is programmed into the ECU and the keys (if chipped) are programmed to the car by the ECU. All of that programming requires the dealership.

You may be able to get away with it if you don’t have chipped keys but I doubt it.
This isnt true. You can swap any 9th gen ECU between any car so long as they have the right engine/transmission and features (e.g. US built auto with ABS/VSC ECU and Japan built Manual with no other options can't be swapped).

The only thing you have to do on some models with immobilizers is leave the key in the on position for 30 minutes. That process will relink the immobilizer and engine ECU.

However I have swapped a ton of ECUs on transponder/immobilizer equipped 9th gens, including those with a different VIN programmed, and they all started right up. The worst thing I saw was an engine code for incorrect VIN or low idle/stalling from a dirty throttle body.
 
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