There is a great procedure in the Haynes Manual for this vehicle. Here is the gist (for auto transmission):
Note: There are some people who disconnect the tranny cooler lines to get out more of the old fluid. No argument that getting more of the old ATF is a good thing, but not covered in the procedure below. You'll need more ATF than what is listed below to fill your tranny back up.
You will need:
- 4 qts of Toyota Type-IV ATF
- Replacement drain plug crush gasket (only if you're going to pull the plug - see below)
- New filter and pan gasket. (If you buy Pro-King part #FK-284, I can tell you it won't fit)
- Skinny funnel that will fit in transmission dipstick pipe.
1) Pre-disassembly check: Take the new pan gasket with you under the car. Hold it up to the dain pan and make sure it is the right replacement. There are a couple of brands out there that are close but bolt holes are in the wrong place, too big, etc. Once you are confident you have a good fit, proceed.
2) Draining the fluid. There are two options:
- Option 1 - Skip the drain plug removal: If you have a large catch, you can remove the pan without pulling the drain plug out. This is the messy way of doing it, but you won't have to worry about the drain plug leaking later on, and you don't need a new crush gasket. This is a good option if you go to get parts and they are out of stock on the crush gasket and you need to get this over with.
- Option 2 - Pull the drain plug and drain tranny, then remove pan. Don't pull the plug unless you have a new crush gasket. They are not designed to be reused. Once the fluid is drained, replace plug with new crush gasket. The flat side of the gasket should go against the pan. Remove the pan bolts. Note - there will be residual fluid in the pan!
3) Once the pan is removed, you'll see the silver-colored filter assembly. It is held in place with three bolts. I think they are 10mm. One of the bolts are longer than the other two. Note which is which and make sure you put it back in the same spot when reassembling. Remove the three bolts and the filter comes right off. Again, there will be residual fluid in the filter.
4) Replace filter and bolt in place, noting the location of the longer bolt. If you have access to a parts washer, the filter can be cleaned and reused since it is a fine metal mesh filter. Blow out with compressed air if reusing and make sure all of the slovent is completely gone. You don't want that junk mixing with your new ATF.
5) Thoroughly clean the drain pan, removing all of the fine grit and sludge from the magnets. Make sure you put the magnets back in the same spots they were originally located. Verify that the sealing surface is clean and smooth, no gouges. Verify that the surfaces on the transmission face are clean and smooth as well. This will ensure a good seal.
5) Reinstall drain pan with new gasket. The torque spec is 48 inch pounds. Again, that is INCH pounds. Use a star pattern when torquing the bolts. I use a sharpie marker to number the bolt holes in a star pattern on the pan itself to ensure I don't miss any. Starting with hand snug, tighten all bolts in the star pattern. Then go with about 1/3 of the torgue (20 inch pounds) in the same pattern. Next, increase torque up to 40 inch pounds, same star pattern. Finally, 48 inch pounds.
6) Carefully wipe any residual ATF from the bottom of the engine. This way if you see ATF later, you know you have a leak and not just residual ATF from the drain and fill.
7) After verifying that the plug is reinstalled into the pan, and the pan is torqued properly, you can fill the transmission. Start with 3 quarts of ATF. You will add the fluid through the dipstick pipe using the skinny funnel.
8) Start the car and leave it in PARK for a few moments. Listen for unusual noise. You should hear none. If anything sounds wrong shut off the car and investigate.
9) After a few moments, slowly shift from PARK down to L, stopping at each position for 5 seconds or so before proceeding to the next. Go down then up 3 or 4 times. You will probably note that the shift to R is a bit rough the first and second time through. Not unusual. After cycling through several times, leave the car running in PARK and check the ATF level on the dipstick. If the dipstick is dry, add 1/2 quart more, give it a minute to all drain down the pipe, then reheck. As the tranny heats up you'll notice that the level will go up.
10) Take the car out for a drive. You want the tranny to get up to normal temperature. The tranny should be operating smooth as silk. Try giving the accelerator pedal a stomp and note that the tranny downshifts nice and smooth. Then park on a level surface. With the car again running in PARK, check the ATF level and add ATF to get it in the HOT range. Be careful not to add too much! You'll have to pull the plug or use a small siphon pump to get the fluid back out!
11) Over the next couple days, just do a quick check to make sure the level is good and no seepage from the gasket or drain plug. That should be it.
12) Boast to your friends that you do your own tranny maintenace and save huge wads of cash.