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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My 05 Avalon lower front control arms have bad bushings and have to be replaced.
My question is, I have two new Moog lower front control arms, should I attempt replacing the control arms or take my car to a shop?
I understand that the driver side control arm replacement may require a minimal engine lift to access 1 or 2 control arm bolts.
I have a portable engine hoist but I don’t know exactly where to attach the lifting chain for the engine lift. I don’t want to damage anything on the lift.
Can anybody help me on deciding to do the work or sending the Avalon to a mechanic.
Thanks guys!
 

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My 05 Avalon lower front control arms have bad bushings and have to be replaced.
My question is, I have two new Moog lower front control arms, should I attempt replacing the control arms or take my car to a shop?
I understand that the driver side control arm replacement may require a minimal engine lift to access 1 or 2 control arm bolts.
I have a portable engine hoist but I don’t know exactly where to attach the lifting chain for the engine lift. I don’t want to damage anything on the lift.
Can anybody help me on deciding to do the work or sending the Avalon to a mechanic.
Thanks guys!
 

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No need to mess with engine supports. You can reach bolts using a 19mm. There’s a lot YouTube videos on many ways to replace your control arms your self. Hope that helps
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
No need to mess with engine supports. You can reach bolts using a 19mm. There’s a lot YouTube videos on many ways to replace your control arms your self. Hope that helps
Have you done that work before on a 05 Avalon?
Everything I have seen & read online says just on the driver side lower front control arm, that the engine/transaxle mount has to be unbolted & raised to access the control arm bolt/bolts?
Thanks!
 

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Technically you're supposed to drop the whole subframe to remove the driver's side control arm but there's an easier way which I did. Assuming you already have the vehicle on jack stands using the frame rails and that you already have the knuckle removed, to remove the driver side control arm:

1) loosen all 3 of the lower motor mounts but don't completely remove the nuts/bolts. Only remove the transmission side mount nut. Also do NOT remove the top torque dog bone mount.

2) Jack the motor up about an inch from the driver's side. You can put a piece of 2x4 under the transmission pan and use a floor jack.

3) Using another floor jack, jack the passenger side of the motor so that it's not resting on the mount. (It doesn't have to be too high)

4) Unbolt the transmission side mount from the subframe.

5) Remove all the 14mm subframe brace bolts.

6) Loosen the 2 large subframe bolts on the passenger side so that the subframe drops about a centimeter.

7) Loosen the 2 driver's side subframe bolts so that the subframe drops about 3-4 centimeters. You can use another floor jack or a jack stand and put it under the subframe incase the bolts back out completely.

8) Remember that the motor and transmission are being supported by the 2 floor jacks and the upper dog bone mount is preventing the motor from tipping. None of the engine's weight should be on the mounts or subframe at this point.

9) Now that the subframe is lowered and the engine is raised, you will still not be able to completely remove the transmission mount because the studs are just too long. But now, there should be enough clearance to back the control arm bolts all the way.

10) Remove the 2 control arm bolts under the transmission mount. You will need a low profile socket or wrench as you won't be able to completely remove the transmission mount without lowering the subframe even more. Also remember that the subframe has bushings so you can wedge a long screwdriver between the tranny pan and the top of the subframe and flex it a few extra centimeters to get more clearance if needed.

11) Remove the last control arm bolt to the far right and remove control arm
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Technically you're supposed to drop the whole subframe to remove the driver's side control arm but there's an easier way which I did. Assuming you already have the vehicle on jack stands using the frame rails and that you already have the knuckle removed, to remove the driver side control arm:

1) loosen all 3 of the lower motor mounts but don't completely remove the nuts/bolts. Only remove the transmission side mount nut. Also do NOT remove the top torque dog bone mount.

2) Jack the motor up about an inch from the driver's side. You can put a piece of 2x4 under the transmission pan and use a floor jack.

3) Using another floor jack, jack the passenger side of the motor so that it's not resting on the mount. (It doesn't have to be too high)

4) Unbolt the transmission side mount from the subframe.

5) Remove all the 14mm subframe brace bolts.

6) Loosen the 2 large subframe bolts on the passenger side so that the subframe drops about a centimeter.

7) Loosen the 2 driver's side subframe bolts so that the subframe drops about 3-4 centimeters. You can use another floor jack or a jack stand and put it under the subframe incase the bolts back out completely.

8) Remember that the motor and transmission are being supported by the 2 floor jacks and the upper dog bone mount is preventing the motor from tipping. None of the engine's weight should be on the mounts or subframe at this point.

9) Now that the subframe is lowered and the engine is raised, you will still not be able to completely remove the transmission mount because the studs are just too long. But now, there should be enough clearance to back the control arm bolts all the way.

10) Remove the 2 control arm bolts under the transmission mount. You will need a low profile socket or wrench as you won't be able to completely remove the transmission mount without lowering the subframe even more. Also remember that the subframe has bushings so you can wedge a long screwdriver between the tranny pan and the top of the subframe and flex it a few extra centimeters to get more clearance if needed.

11) Remove the last control arm bolt to the far right and remove control arm
That sure is a lot of steps to replace that driver side lower frt. cont. arm.
I appreciate your effort to help me!
And I’ll have to find & determine which mounts & bolts are the correct ones to loosen or take out.
I was hoping the driver side wouldn’t be so complicated.
I think the passenger side can be done with no mount loosening needed.
Thank you!
👍🏻
 

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That sure is a lot of steps to replace that driver side lower frt. cont. arm.
I appreciate your effort to help me!
And I’ll have to find & determine which mounts & bolts are the correct ones to loosen or take out.
I was hoping the driver side wouldn’t be so complicated.
I think the passenger side can be done with no mount loosening needed.
Thank you!
👍🏻
No problem. If you do choose to do it yourself, I'd recommend paying a little more for a genuine Toyota control arm assembly because it won't be fun doing it twice.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
No problem. If you do choose to do it yourself, I'd recommend paying a little more for a genuine Toyota control arm assembly because it won't be fun doing it twice.
I bought Moog cont arm replacements.
I think Moog is a quality brand.
I would like to find an Avalon front end diagram with the mounts & mount bolts highlighted or arrowspointing to all of them. Thanks again!
 

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My 05 Avalon lower front control arms have bad bushings and have to be replaced.
My question is, I have two new Moog lower front control arms, should I attempt replacing the control arms or take my car to a shop?
I understand that the driver side control arm replacement may require a minimal engine lift to access 1 or 2 control arm bolts.
I have a portable engine hoist but I don’t know exactly where to attach the lifting chain for the engine lift. I don’t want to damage anything on the lift.
Can anybody help me on deciding to do the work or sending the Avalon to a mechanic.
Thanks guys!
2 mechanics did the driver side together at a shop while I stood there and watched. One of them had to beat the hell out of something under there to get it in place. They did not do any engine lifting
 

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I bought Moog cont arm replacements.
I think Moog is a quality brand.
I would like to find an Avalon front end diagram with the mounts & mount bolts highlighted or arrowspointing to all of them. Thanks again!
If you are not as cheap ass and poor as me, I suggest you follow windwaker's advice and buy OEM parts. Here is my moog arm less than 1 year after installation. It still feels tight but just annoying to see that crack.

336783
 

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Yeah that sucks. Think you still want to warranty claim before the 3-years (or whatever it is now) is up?

If you are not as cheap ass and poor as me, I suggest you follow windwaker's advice and buy OEM parts. Here is my moog arm less than 1 year after installation. It still feels tight but just annoying to see that crack.
 

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Sounds like they were beating it through the engine mount then. :oops:

2 mechanics did the driver side together at a shop while I stood there and watched. One of them had to beat the hell out of something under there to get it in place. They did not do any engine lifting
 

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Yeah that sucks. Think you still want to warranty claim before the 3-years (or whatever it is now) is up?
Thanks for bringing that up. It's actually still covered under warranty but how does the claim work? I sure can't remove it before getting the replacement.
 

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Did you buy from rockauto? Or Amazon? etc? The claim goes through the seller.

For example with Rockauto, you enter the warranty claims page by using the order number. Pay for the new part, then you return the bad part after replacement within a time frame. Then Rockauto credits the replacement purchase price back to you, IIRC.

NORMALLY with rockauto you pay return shipping. HOWEVER, if you buy the replacement using PayPal for the entire amount, you can use their Free Return Shipping offer. Just make sure you get Rockauto's return page to tell you WHERE to send the bad part back to. Because you'll need to enter that while printing PayPal's prepaid label. Otherwise PayPal might print a different address by default, which you don't want.

Details on PayPal Free Return Shipping here, and read the fine print:
 

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Cool, that's really helpful. I did buy from R/A, I was actually going to call them today. I probably paid via paypal but not really sure, I will check my record. Thanks much for the return shipping tips.
 

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(y)

PayPal free shipping would apply to the NEW PART that will be coming under the warranty claim, as the new part's purchase price will be refunded by rockauto after getting the old part. (rockauto shouldn't charge outbound shipping on warranty claims)

Then when you request free return shipping from PayPal to send the defective part back, you will be pulling up the NEW PART's invoice, and then select "free return" on that. NOT on the original order! It might be a bit confusing, but what you do on Rockauto and PayPal are different.

So it's more about buying the replacement with PayPal and getting free return shipping on the new invoice (and rockauto refunds the new invoice after getting the bad part, and PayPal will see that refund on their system to confirm the return), and not the original invoice.

I think I said it correctly but it sounded clear as mud, so do read the fine print. :LOL:
 

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Also, you don't need to mess with subframe bolt if you remove the engine mount.
You need to lower the subframe for the drivers side control arm. The mount studs are way too long. Even if you jack the engine up all the way until it hits the cowl, there will still not be enough room. Unless you sawzall the motor mount, the subframe has to be lowered.
 
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