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Discussion Starter #1
HI Guys,


I’m having a crazy problems with my wife’s 2006 4Runner. Here’s some background, over our last 3 Toyota's we have logged over 900K miles and I’ve done 100% of the maintenance and we’ve owned all three from new. This is the 1st time I’ve been stumped enough to reach out on the internet for help. I say that just so you guys know I’m not some newbie stuck with a common problem.


The symptoms, it a 2006 4.0 with about 260K on it. The other morning when we went outside the rear wiper was running, then when I got in the fan was on, even though the key wasn’t in the ignition, then I noticed that the DRL’s were also on, all when the key is out of the car.


I pulled the 1GR fuse and they all went off, including the power door locks and directional, today the battery died, I put another battery in it from my truck and it started but all the same symptoms are there.



I’m thinking it must be some sort of a control module.


FYI, it’s 100% stock.


All suggestions are appreciated.
 

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I guess it's possible that a module went bad, but when several things go "crazy" at one time I think about bad grounds and water leaks.

Current looking for grounds can do some crazy stuff. Water dripping in a computer can do some crazy things, like filling the combustion chambers and the engine block full of gasoline, a quarter tank of gasoline pumped into the engine with the key not in the switch (overnight). Turned out to be a crappy windshield installation, shorted out the ECU turned on the fuel pump and opened the injectors to full value and literally pumped 5+ gallons of fuel into the engine. We put the replacement ECU in a bag until they got the glass job "fixed".

Nothing is more important than the circumstances that led up to the "situation" It may help to go over every little thing the preceded this.
 

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Were these things running with their respective switches in the off position (except DRL) and the key out of the ignition? If yes, suspect control module. If the things could be turned off with their control then suspect a faulty ignition switch. Very strange. I agree with the water/ground things as well. Also check for rodent damage.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Chuckoff, My initial thought was it's something to do with the ignition. I can turn these items off when its running and they stay off, except the DRL's of course.



Yesterday after the battery died I jump started it and it died again on the way home, it was definitely losing power fast.


Thanks again guys, I'm going to dig into tonight after work.
 

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1998 T100 SR5 2WD
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Yer best bet would be to git the electrical wiring diagram so you can trace the circuits and find which possible module may be causing yer power gremlins.

You can sign up fer a 48 hour account over at Toyota's Techinfo website and download the service manuals and wiring diagrams fer $20.
https://techinfo.toyota.com

What tools do you have at yer disposal? Multimeter? Scope? Test light? ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I couldn't find any damaged wires, under the hood or the dash, so I ordered a new Ignition Starter Switch from RockAuto, it was only $30 including priority shipping. I'll try that first since the ignition was my first instinct, after that I'll be taking BamZipBow suggestion and start tracing the circuits.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks again to those that chimed in on this posting, it looks like the Ignition Starter Switch solved my issue. I put it in today and everything is back to normal.


Jim
 

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1998 T100 SR5 2WD
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I wonder if you test the switch out if there are any anomalies or not. Snap some piccies as you tear it apart. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Good point I meant to do that, I took it apart when I pulled it out and shot these 2 pics, you can see an issue with all the contact points, there was a bunch of yellow/white film in there, I have no idea what it is. The second shot shows the IG1 connection it was clearly the worst of them all and I believe the cause of my issue.


I think if I cleaned up the contacts & reinstalled the original it would have been fine, but since the new part was on hand I put it in.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Another update here just in case others have this same issue, the part above did not resolve my issue.


Today I replaced the following part, Toyota Part No.: 88650-35250, AMPLIFIER ASSY, AIR CONDITIONER, I picked up a used one on eBay for $45, and I feel pretty confident this was the problem, I will confirm in a few days.


Jim
 

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1998 T100 SR5 2WD
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I'm not sure how the AC amplifier would affect those other circuits. ;)

Did you ever git the FSM and EWD from Techinfo? ;)
 

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Another update here just in case others have this same issue, the part above did not resolve my issue.


Today I replaced the following part, Toyota Part No.: 88650-35250, AMPLIFIER ASSY, AIR CONDITIONER, I picked up a used one on eBay for $45, and I feel pretty confident this was the problem, I will confirm in a few days.


Jim
So, wait...the rear wiper still came on, the DRL's were still on, and the blower was still running with key off?
The blower gets hot from the heater relay, ground comes from the blower motor controller.
The rear wiper is controlled by the back door ECU. It has a constant hot from the 30A power fuse and hot on start ECU IG fuse. Ground comes from the back door ECU.
The DRL relay gets hot from the IG1 fuse and the turn/haz fuse which is always hot.
These things get power and ground form different sources If they come on when they are switched to off, and the key is off, then they are probably being supplies ground from their respective controllers but, all three?
Does not make sense.
The ac amplifier could cause the bolwer to run key off but, don't see how it could affect the other two things.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I have no idea what the ac amplifier controls but my problem is in fact resolved. I replaced 2 parts, the Ignition Starter Switch and the AMPLIFIER ASSY, AIR CONDITIONER.



I noticed when I was trying to troubleshoot my issue that there was a noise constantly coming from behind the dash, it sounded like a mouse was in there trying to get out. If the noise stopped & I switched the headlight switch on the noise came back/ increased. When I pulled the plugs to the 88650-35250 module all of that stopped



It doesn't make sense to me, but all I know is that it has been working perfectly for about a week now.



One other note when we were having the problems, the remote would not activate the power door locks, they worked fine with the door switch. This is also now resolved.
 

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Not sure if that year has CAN Bus but, if so that could be why the AC amplifier affected the other systems.
 
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