[Onslow]

So my 2006 AWD 6cyl has a graunching noise coming (99% certain) from the outer CV joint on the right front axle. It's audible in low speed motion and can be silenced if I put slight leftward pressure - so not actually turning just sort of loading the vehicle to the left. Noise comes back if you remove left pressure or lean right.
Questions:
1. How much trouble can I expect getting the shaft out of the bearing carrier? Talking about 43045 on the Toyota parts site diagram. No press at home and no easy access once the truck is off the road.
2. The Car Care Nut on Youtube is pretty adamant about not using aftermarket axles on Toyotas. Thoughts? There's a few used ones on Ebay and LKQ that I would at least consider but not sure my local independent shop will install a used part if I take it to them.
3. Aftermarket - FVP seems to be just a reboxer? Toyota want almost $700 for these axles which ain't happening. The local shop has quoted just over $1000 to do both front axles and nothing else. They did say there is no reason to do both at once but to do the right only is 2/3 of the price to do both.
Was initially very tempted to do the job myself, especially since I already have new ball joints, new swaybar bushings and new outer tie rod ends sitting here but I'm just not sure that I'm up to it. Not sure how the shop will feel about "outside" parts but they have done a job for me once before when I brought them a hub and they just said "no warranty" which I was ok with.

 

[TheLowlander]

1. A lot, especially if you live in a salty area. I've seen some that are so bad you basically just have to cut it out and replace it. Some people do something similar for the front wheel bearings which are press-in as well. Haven't had to do my fronts yet, but have heard lots of horror stories.

2. For the most part I agree with Car Care Nut's outlook on used parts, but there are some good out there and in a few cases an aftermarket part is superior to OEM for these (or the same, as seen w/ the Aisin wheel speed sensor I bought). GSP is working great for my rear axles and was a perfect fit (Unlike Trakmotive, but I'll get to that). Not OEM quality obviously but they have been problem free for over a year now and are as quiet as can be. Good enough for the dealership to offer as an aftermarket part it seems.

3. I would avoid FVP altogether, they are just a reboxer who can't even be bothered to put up pictures of the actual product. I have a post about this on sway bar bushings where they sent something completely different than what was on package and they even got the MFR region wrong. Trakmotive axles literally fell out while I was driving and tore my axle seals so I had to change those too. Seems some aftermarket can't properly machine the axles to fit properly like OEM.


Maybe used from Cali/Texas/Florida is the best way to go plus a boot kit from Toyota just in case? My original rear axles are still going strong in another member's 01-03 Highlander. I would have kept them if I didn't need 04-07 rear axles for the knuckle swap.

 

[Onslow]

Maybe used from Cali/Texas/Florida is the best way to go plus a boot kit from Toyota just in case?

There's one in TX with 76K, one in Denver with 80K. I think I saw one on Ebay that was a bit more expensive than average because of low mileage.
If I went with used I'd buy the boot kit (and tool!) just to be safe. Hose 'em out with brake cleaner and pack 'em full of a good grease. Unfortunately looking likely I'll go with the shop and aftermarket if they'll specify what brand axles I'll be getting. Not sure about doing it myself - I've been putting off thumb surgery and have to be real careful with my hands. This getting old stuff sucks.

 

[Ralph Spoilsport]

Carrier bearing is FWD stuff.

On AWD this is a no sweat job (I’ve done it). Drain the transfer case and the transmission (just the 4 qts out of the pan). If you don’t, you’ll have internally mixed fluids and you will be sad…

I used cardone axle, $50, it’s been on the vehicle about 50k miles now. No issues.

 

[Onslow]

Carrier bearing is FWD stuff.

I know that the carrier on a separate bracket is front wheel drive but the diagram on Toyota's own parts site shows "Toyota 43045-64020
Case Sub Assy, Drive Shaft Bearing" which doesn't look familiar and may just be a mistake but it is on the right vehicle page. Shrug.

 

[Onslow]

Drain the transfer case and the transmission (just the 4 qts out of the pan). If you don’t, you’ll have internally mixed fluids and you will be sad…

Is this a situation where I should have them put new seals in "while they're in there"?

 

[Ralph Spoilsport]

I know that the carrier on a separate bracket is front wheel drive but the diagram on Toyota's own parts site shows "Toyota 43045-64020
Case Sub Assy, Drive Shaft Bearing" which doesn't look familiar and may just be a mistake but it is on the right vehicle page. Shrug. View attachment 414174

that’s part of the transfer case. Edit: at least I think so.

the axle is looooong. It’s secured in the front differential with the usual Toyointernal circlip, it takes a good whack or a big pry bar to get out, and good persuasion going back in. But there is no external bearing to worry about.

 

[Ralph Spoilsport]

Is this a situation where I should have them put new seals in "while they're in there"?

good question. The outer seal on passenger side might not be too bad… but I personally would leave well enough alone.

the rear differential seals blow out when the breather clogs up around 200 k miles. I haven’t had any issue up front but I think there were warranty repairs on some of these very early on (leaks well within 36k mile warranty) due to manufacturing defects.

 

[Chuy]

Your description of the noise tends to indicate a bad wheel bearing, more so than a bad CV shaft. A bad shaft usually produces vibrations on acceleration, could be from start or higher RPMs, but almost always when accelerating. The wheel bearing can be installed without removing the knuckle; I did it on our 07 ES350. You need a wheel bearing kit and a sledge hammer to remove the hub. Not removing the knuckle avoids having to do an alignment.

But, yes, the right side CV can be removed by hand if the center bearing is not seized in the bracket. A new right trans output seal is recommended.

 

[Onslow]

Your description of the noise tends to indicate a bad wheel bearing, more so than a bad CV shaft. A bad shaft usually produces vibrations on acceleration, could be from start or higher RPMs, but almost always when accelerating.

As I said, 99% certain, with my head in the wheel well turning the hub by hand, that it is the CV joint. No vibrations but sure sounds and feels like the CV.

The wheel bearing can be installed without removing the knuckle; I did it on our 07 ES350. You need a wheel bearing kit and a sledge hammer to remove the hub. Not removing the knuckle avoids having to do an alignment.

Different strokes I guess but I wouldn't dream of replacing the bearing, I'd simply do a new hub. My days of sledge-hammering anything on a car are long gone.

But, yes, the right side CV can be removed by hand if the center bearing is not seized in the bracket. A new right trans output seal is recommended.

This is where forums get confusing and dangerous. There is no bearing or bracket on an AWD Highlander at least not in the way that the FWD have one.

 

[Chuy]

I see what you mean about no carrier bearing. I located one video showing how the AWD passenger side CV shaft differs from 2WD. The shaft slides into, and through, the transfer case, which doubles as the carrier bearing, and locks into place with a c-clip at the end of the shaft as opposed to a snap ring as on the others.

The hub is not a bolt-on. The hub and bearing are pressed into the knuckle. To service the wheel bearings, you either have to remove the knuckle to press off the hub in a press, or press it out in place.

The video is for 2008+ but the shafts look very similar and I presume the replacement procedure is similar to your model.

 

[Ralph Spoilsport]

To do a front wheel bearing, it’s worth buying a complete knuckle assembly, if there’s a decent quality one available. I used moog, about 50k later, no issues. I did the other side the old fashioned way. Turned into a week long ordeal.

The axles all use the same internal clip at the inside end.

 

[Onslow]

I see what you mean about no carrier bearing. I located one video showing how the AWD passenger side CV shaft differs from 2WD. The shaft slides into, and through, the transfer case, which doubles as the carrier bearing, and locks into place with a c-clip at the end of the shaft as opposed to a snap ring as on the others.

I've seen that video. There's no difference between the end of that axle and any other. The only ring that's difficult to remove is the one that goes into the bearing carrier on the FWD models. The video mistakenly flashes C-Clip on the screen but what's on that cv axle is a snap ring. People throw terms around without understanding them and that's a problem.

The hub is not a bolt-on. The hub and bearing are pressed into the knuckle. To service the wheel bearings, you either have to remove the knuckle to press off the hub in a press, or press it out in place.

The hub absolutely is a bolt-on when you buy it as a complete item. I don't own a press and I don't have time to spend hours or days heating, beating, prying, pressing and otherwise generally abusing something just to get a new bearing in when I can buy one that's ready to bolt on to the vehicle.

 

[Ralph Spoilsport]

I've seen that video. There's no difference between the end of that axle and any other. The only ring that's difficult to remove is the one that goes into the bearing carrier on the FWD models. The video mistakenly flashes C-Clip on the screen but what's on that cv axle is a snap ring. People throw terms around without understanding them and that's a problem.

The hub absolutely is a bolt-on when you buy it as a complete item. I don't own a press and I don't have time to spend hours or days heating, beating, prying, pressing and otherwise generally abusing something just to get a new bearing in when I can buy one that's ready to bolt on to the vehicle.

The (front) bearing is pressed into the knuckle. The hub is pressed into the bearing. The only no press option is to replace the entire knuckle assembly as a unit.

The rear wheel bearings on these are bolt on assemblies that incorporate a carrier, the bearing and a hub.

 

[Onslow]

The (front) bearing is pressed into the knuckle. The hub is pressed into the bearing. The only no press option is to replace the entire knuckle assembly as a unit.

The rear wheel bearings on these are bolt on assemblies that incorporate a carrier, the bearing and a hub.

You are correct. I misspoke. In racing where my background is we refer to them as hubs. Just like we refer to cv axles as half shafts which threw the local repair shop guy off completely. Lol.

 

[23CamryGirl]

So my 2006 AWD 6cyl has a graunching noise coming (99% certain) from the outer CV joint on the right front axle. It's audible in low speed motion and can be silenced if I put slight leftward pressure - so not actually turning just sort of loading the vehicle to the left. Noise comes back if you remove left pressure or lean right.
Questions:
1. How much trouble can I expect getting the shaft out of the bearing carrier? Talking about 43045 on the Toyota parts site diagram. No press at home and no easy access once the truck is off the road.
2. The Car Care Nut on Youtube is pretty adamant about not using aftermarket axles on Toyotas. Thoughts? There's a few used ones on Ebay and LKQ that I would at least consider but not sure my local independent shop will install a used part if I take it to them.
3. Aftermarket - FVP seems to be just a reboxer? Toyota want almost $700 for these axles which ain't happening. The local shop has quoted just over $1000 to do both front axles and nothing else. They did say there is no reason to do both at once but to do the right only is 2/3 of the price to do both.
Was initially very tempted to do the job myself, especially since I already have new ball joints, new swaybar bushings and new outer tie rod ends sitting here but I'm just not sure that I'm up to it. Not sure how the shop will feel about "outside" parts but they have done a job for me once before when I brought them a hub and they just said "no warranty" which I was ok with.

What is your vehicle worth to you? is it sentimental or want to pass it down to a family member? Does the repair cost exceeds the value of the vehicle (most likely does because anything over 10 years old and has over 100K miles generally has no market value other than what someone is willing to pay for it) but want to keep the vehicle anyway, then fix it. There is only so many options! moving mechanical parts wear as best to fix it for safety reasons rather than keep on driving it as things can only get worse. 1) fix it 2) buy a used vehicle and eventually pay for repairs on that 3) buy a new vehicle. *Apparently you have invested much into the maintenance up keep. Selling it doubt you will recoup your investment and take a loss, already know what is wrong with the vehicle so is putting/soaking more money into it worth it? Tough decision based on your budget - money you have. Avoid going into debt or more debt - buy what you can afford as Interest Rates will cripple you. Get it fixed and hopefully in 2 years you have saved and planned for a better or new vehicle without placing yourself in a bind. Last, chances are in 2 to 5 years you will need another vehicle and there is no way out of that scenario. Fix it, get into a better financial stance and move on to better things.
- new vehicle payment of $500 to $700 per month. Spend a Thousand today is what you would spend on 2 months of car payment. Think about it? $1000 for 1 month or $6k for the year. That means you saved $5k in 1 year to be applied for something better. Be Positive, use common sense. Only you know your financial situation and can control it. I wish you the best.

 

[BillDurham]

Wheel bearing is grindgrind growlgrowl Axle is click clack, as in western movies.

 

[reycarlos2000]

So my 2006 AWD 6cyl has a graunching noise coming (99% certain) from the outer CV joint on the right front axle. It's audible in low speed motion and can be silenced if I put slight leftward pressure - so not actually turning just sort of loading the vehicle to the left. Noise comes back if you remove left pressure or lean right. Questions: 1. How much trouble can I expect getting the shaft out of the bearing carrier? Talking about 43045 on the Toyota parts site diagram. No press at home and no easy access once the truck is off the road. 2. The Car Care Nut on Youtube is pretty adamant about not using aftermarket axles on Toyotas. Thoughts? There's a few used ones on Ebay and LKQ that I would at least consider but not sure my local independent shop will install a used part if I take it to them. 3. Aftermarket - FVP seems to be just a reboxer? Toyota want almost $700 for these axles which ain't happening. The local shop has quoted just over $1000 to do both front axles and nothing else. They did say there is no reason to do both at once but to do the right only is 2/3 of the price to do both. Was initially very tempted to do the job myself, especially since I already have new ball joints, new swaybar bushings and new outer tie rod ends sitting here but I'm just not sure that I'm up to it. Not sure how the shop will feel about "outside" parts but they have done a job for me once before when I brought them a hub and they just said "no warranty" which I was ok with.

I replaced my 2015 Highlander Duralast cv axle from Autozone they worked perfectly like OEM

 

[reycarlos2000]

So my 2006 AWD 6cyl has a graunching noise coming (99% certain) from the outer CV joint on the right front axle. It's audible in low speed motion and can be silenced if I put slight leftward pressure - so not actually turning just sort of loading the vehicle to the left. Noise comes back if you remove left pressure or lean right.
Questions:
1. How much trouble can I expect getting the shaft out of the bearing carrier? Talking about 43045 on the Toyota parts site diagram. No press at home and no easy access once the truck is off the road.
2. The Car Care Nut on Youtube is pretty adamant about not using aftermarket axles on Toyotas. Thoughts? There's a few used ones on Ebay and LKQ that I would at least consider but not sure my local independent shop will install a used part if I take it to them.
3. Aftermarket - FVP seems to be just a reboxer? Toyota want almost $700 for these axles which ain't happening. The local shop has quoted just over $1000 to do both front axles and nothing else. They did say there is no reason to do both at once but to do the right only is 2/3 of the price to do both.
Was initially very tempted to do the job myself, especially since I already have new ball joints, new swaybar bushings and new outer tie rod ends sitting here but I'm just not sure that I'm up to it. Not sure how the shop will feel about "outside" parts but they have done a job for me once before when I brought them a hub and they just said "no warranty" which I was ok with.

I replaced my 2015 Highlander Duralast CV axle from Autozone. It works perfectly like OEM