[Whoismichael]

My 2006 Toyota Avalon just recently started shaking bad after putting my foot on the brake while driving at highway speeds. It shakes at the wheel and brake pedal. I just changed my coils and spark plugs and was wondering if I messed up something such as the vacuum hoses I need help please.

 

[AmanO]

Warped rotor. Call Midas.
It happens as SOON as you tap the brake or when you generously apply?

 

[Whoismichael]

Warped rotor. Call Midas.
It happens as SOON as you tap the brake or when you generously apply?

I didn’t have a problem until after I changed my plugs and coils. Could I of potentially missed plugging in a vacuum car drives normal until I hit around 60+ and try to brake more than half it starts shaking really bad. Also are there any vacuum hoses in the engine bay that affect the brakes that I potentially missed.

 

[AmanO]

Still sounds like a warped rotor. What is the ambient daytime temp where you are at? In my experience, rotors just get too hot one time and warp. It happens pretty quickly. How old are the pads and rotors? If you do the work yourself and they have some miles on them, just replace them.

Was it literally the first time you applied a good amount of petal after the job or just something that day after?

 

[Whoismichael]

Still sounds like a warped rotor. What is the ambient daytime temp where you are at? In my experience, rotors just get too hot one time and warp. It happens pretty quickly. How old are the pads and rotors? If you do the work yourself and they have some miles on them, just replace them.

Was it literally the first time you applied a good amount of petal after the job or just something that day after?

Temps are around 60-70 here. I’m not quite sure how old the rotors or pads are. The car shakes vigorously and the steering wheel goes back and fourth and I feel resistance in the brake while it shakes. I just want to confirm that it is the rotors or not. Could the vacuum lines cause this issue in the engine near the air intake and manifold where they must be unplugged to remove some items. Not sure if I reconnected them correctly.

 

[Whoismichael]

Temps are around 60-70 here. I’m not quite sure how old the rotors or pads are. The car shakes vigorously and the steering wheel goes back and fourth and I feel resistance in the brake while it shakes. I just want to confirm that it is the rotors or not. Could the vacuum lines cause this issue in the engine near the air intake and manifold where they must be unplugged to remove some items. Not sure if I reconnected them correctly.

I also broke the nipple off of the circular part of the intake. Should that matter? I haven’t had any issues or weird sounds.

 

[AmanO]

I wonder if it is an ABS issue or traction control (aka ABS issue in these cars)?
Wheel speed sensor fault seems like it would be all the time, though.

 

[Whoismichael]

I wonder if it is an ABS issue or traction control (aka ABS issue in these cars)?
Wheel speed sensor fault seems like it would be all the time, though.

Yeah I don’t know it’s odd.

 

[kourso1]

Trying to understand exactly what nipple broke on the intake?
I would say that needs to be repaired as it may be a vacuum line & possibly affect the brakes?
But I have the same problem on my 05 Avalon, with the front brakes giving a wobble on the wheels & steering wheel when applying the brakes per warped rotors.
But it’s not anything extreme, just annoying to me.
Turning the rotors is my first thought but there s no local machine work so I am considering buying two new rotors locally or online. I’m presently evaluating Detroit Axle & other brands sold by EBay & Amazon.
Can you circle the area is the intake that broke? Thanks.

 

[inov8]

Does the red circle identify the component where the vacuum nipple is broken?
If yes, you can plug the open end of the hose hose with a golf tee or screw, and see if there is any difference.

 

[keiko01]

Your pix isn't clear but if that's the plastic "tee" that broke, it goes to the VSV that controls the front engine mount.

 

[Whoismichael]

Very sorry for the late response but it’s this

 

[Whoismichael]

Your pix isn't clear but if that's the plastic "tee" that broke, it goes to the VSV that controls the front engine mount.

Will it affect what I’m talking about? I still haven’t fixed it car drives normal but still shakes while braking. The pedal and steering wheel shakes.

 

[keiko01]

That's the actuator to the front driver's side engine mount.

 

[Whoismichael]

That's the actuator to the front driver's side engine mount. View attachment 300635

What does it do though?

 

[inov8]

The active engine mount is effective during idling under engine speed of 900 RPM.
Signals that are synchronized to the engine RPM are sent by the ECM to the VSV, and engine vacuum is thereby utilized to vary the pressure of the intake air chamber in the active control engine mount. As a result, the diaphragm vibrates, and using the liquid as a medium, the rubber mount also vibrates. This vibration of the engine mount acts to cancel out the engine vibration during idle, thus reducing vibration and noise at idle. The active engine mount’s damping force to generate vibrations is calibrated through the effects of the orifice and the vacuum side branch.

The only vacuum problem that could conceivably affect braking is a vacuum leak that depletes the vacuum stored in the vacuum buffer canister for use when brakes are applied while engine vacuum is low. But even this would not cause the steering wheel to shake from side-to-side during braking.

Did you have too remove a wheel and tire for any reason during, or just before or after, the spark plug change?

 

[Whoismichael]

The active engine mount is effective during idling under engine speed of 900 RPM.
Signals that are synchronized to the engine RPM are sent by the ECM to the VSV, and engine vacuum is thereby utilized to vary the pressure of the intake air chamber in the active control engine mount. As a result, the diaphragm vibrates, and using the liquid as a medium, the rubber mount also vibrates. This vibration of the engine mount acts to cancel out the engine vibration during idle, thus reducing vibration and noise at idle. The active engine mount’s damping force to generate vibrations is calibrated through the effects of the orifice and the vacuum side branch.

View attachment 300638

The only vacuum problem that could conceivably affect braking is a vacuum leak that depletes the vacuum stored in the vacuum buffer canister for use when brakes are applied while engine vacuum is low. But even this would not cause the steering wheel to shake from side-to-side during braking.

Did you have too remove a wheel and tire for any reason during, or just before or after, the spark plug change?

No wheel or tire removal just changed the spark plugs and coils that’s it.

 

[06Ava]

I would replace the rotors and also replace the brake caliper pins (get the brake caliper pin kits). The pins will get stuck on an older car. Clean out the pin holes really good and use silicon lubricant. These should fix the vibrations.