[CheeseHead91182]

I have a 2007 Camry that has 215K miles on it. It had the burning oil issue back in 2011 and I had the fix done and everything was ok until last year when it I noticed it was burning oil again. Now given that the car had the fix done 9 years ago and was fine for years is this due to the car's age and amount of miles on it? Also is this something that I should get fixed? I've just been checking the oil and refilling it when necessary. I'm planning on getting another car in about a year so I'm just hoping I can do this until I'm ready to buy a new car because doing an expensive repair on a car this old seems pointless IMHO.

 

[Vangm25]

I'll call it age and most likely valve seals. Check and add as necessary.

 

[bronzemaxell]

in my opinion, the stealership so called bandage "piston fix" only last about a decade or 100,000 miles whichever comes first,
it is an engine design flaw, and the engine build quality has been going down hill with each newer generation due to cost and weight reduction

 

[CheeseHead91182]

in my opinion, the stealership so called bandage "piston fix" only last about a decade or 100,000 miles whichever comes first,
it is an engine design flaw, and the engine build quality has been going down hill with each newer generation due to cost and weight reduction

So did you experience this issue again after having the piston fix?

I'm not really going to complain if it is the issue. When they did the fix the car had less than 100k on it so the fix has lasted a pretty long time and as long as it can make it till this time next year I'll be good and if it won't affect the amount of money I can get trading it in.

 

[bronzemaxell]

My oil burner is 02 2az-fe, it has been burning oil before I bought it at 125k miles, not eligible for free recall, now 230k miles, I've kept a case of Mobil 1 5w-30 in my trunk, and has been adding oils between oil change intervals for last decade.

 

[SFCamry]

From what I have seen out there, the new piston is essentially the same. Not sure what the deal was back in 2011, but there are still only four drainback holes on each side of the piston, and it did not look like they widened those. That oil ring was what caked up, and I am not clear on what re-deign, if any, happened to it. And again, no idea what 2011 looked like. My guess is it was a 100k "fix", so you are back at the caked up oil ring again.

 

[Vangm25]

Time for some forged pistons for that turbo!

 

[ukrkoz]

I had ZERO oil consumption in my Camry after fix.
But anyhow.
Switch to heavier oil weight, add some Lucas oil treatment and keep monitoring oil level every other week. Buying another car soon warrants no more effort than that.

 

[SFCamry]

I had ZERO oil consumption in my Camry after fix.
But anyhow.
Switch to heavier oil weight, add some Lucas oil treatment and keep monitoring oil level every other week. Buying another car soon warrants no more effort than that.

Me too, so far. Only 23k miles on this rebuild, but be interesting to see what 150k or so brings. Some consumption is expected - let's see if it goes back to the quart per 1,000 miles kind of thing.

 

[CheeseHead91182]

I had ZERO oil consumption in my Camry after fix.
But anyhow.
Switch to heavier oil weight, add some Lucas oil treatment and keep monitoring oil level every other week. Buying another car soon warrants no more effort than that.

How much of that Lucas Oil treatmetn should I use?

 

[ukrkoz]

They of course want you to use a lot. I normally just squirted maybe few ounces in every oil change. Lucas is good medicine.
Heavier weight oil by itself will help. Just use one that has lowest difference between the 2 numbers, so 10W30 not 10W40.
You should be running on 5W20, right? Go for 10W30. I had really good experience with Quaker State oil but, for oil burner - Supertech from Walmart is feasible option.

 

[ukrkoz]

Also, keep in mind - this is recommended ONLY because you will be buying a different car. Otherwise, pistons have to be removed, holes re drilled, extra holes added and new springs installed.

 

[CheeseHead91182]

They of course want you to use a lot. I normally just squirted maybe few ounces in every oil change. Lucas is good medicine.
Heavier weight oil by itself will help. Just use one that has lowest difference between the 2 numbers, so 10W30 not 10W40.
You should be running on 5W20, right? Go for 10W30. I had really good experience with Quaker State oil but, for oil burner - Supertech from Walmart is feasible option.

I've been using 5W30 Valvoline Max Life maybe I'll give your suggestion a try.

Also, keep in mind - this is recommended ONLY because you will be buying a different car. Otherwise, pistons have to be removed, holes re drilled, extra holes added and new springs installed.

Right, I know this is more like a temporary band aid. I Should be able to buy a new car around this time next year so if I can just keep adding oil till then I'm good. Now do you think when I trade the car it will affect the amount of money I get for it?

 

[ukrkoz]

Not really. Your car is not much worth to start with, with all that kilometrage on it and more to come. Just don't advertise it is taking oil.

 

[Mike Gerber]

You never said how much oil it is burning. I had the fix done on my 07 at 89,000 miles. I now have about 152,000 on it. It uses about .3 of a quart in 1000 miles. To me this is acceptable for an engine that uses 5W-20 oil.

Mike

 

[CheeseHead91182]

You never said how much oil it is burning. I had the fix done on my 07 at 89,000 miles. I now have about 152,000 on it. It uses about .3 of a quart in 1000 miles. To me this is acceptable for an engine that uses 5W-20 oil.

Mike

I'm not sure but I checked the oil around Christmas time and it was at a normal level and then when I checked it this Saturday they was barely any oil on the stick

 

[ukrkoz]

That's 1 qrt. How many miles? Since Christmas? 1 qrt in several thousand is pretty much no concern.

 

[Vangm25]

• When was your last oil change
• When did you last checked your oil
• What was the mileage when you last checked
• What is your current oil level
• What is your current mileage

An issue I feel that has been happening lately is that everyone lately, whether that is 2AZ-FE or 2AR-FE, have been overthinking their oil issues. It's a known issue that the 2AZ-FE will burn oil, whether that is through poorly designed pistons or leaking valve seals. Go back to basics before condemning any issues. When was your last oil change? What was the mileage? What is your current level? What is the current mileage? Repeat as needed until you can confirm it is for sure burning.

 

[CheeseHead91182]

That's 1 qrt. How many miles? Since Christmas? 1 qrt in several thousand is pretty much no concern.

Not sure exactly but its probably 1 qrt in around 1500mi

• When was your last oil change
• When did you last checked your oil
• What was the mileage when you last checked
• What is your current oil level
• What is your current mileage

An issue I feel that has been happening lately is that everyone lately, whether that is 2AZ-FE or 2AR-FE, have been overthinking their oil issues. It's a known issue that the 2AZ-FE will burn oil, whether that is through poorly designed pistons or leaking valve seals. Go back to basics before condemning any issues. When was your last oil change? What was the mileage? What is your current level? What is the current mileage? Repeat as needed until you can confirm it is for sure burning.

I guess my concern is that when the problem first started happening the the oil light would come on and I'd have no oil, once I got the issue fixed I never needed to check the oil level, until last year when the oil light came on and there was no oil in it. It seemed like the car was only burning oil when that issue was present. That is why I assumed the issue had returned.

 

[Vangm25]

What is your oil change interval? If it is gonna burn, then it will burn. Fill it back to full now, drive as normal, then check and compare.