[headmotty]

Thinking to change the serpentine belt on a 2007 LE (I've seen a couple videos and it looks like a bit of a pain, but doable). My question is: is it necessary to replace any of the various pulleys/tensioner? There's some chirping coming from the belt/pulley area, and I'm hoping changing the belt will solve that. But if not, maybe it's the pulley bearings that are causing the noise, so changing them may fix it. Is replacing the various pulleys (a/c, water pump, alternator, tensioner, etc.) something that is normally done on these vehicles after so many miles?

 

[Vangm25]

It may be worth it to do it now rather than later but it is your call.

 

[headmotty]

From more research, looks like the only one people change out is the tensioner/idler pulley.

 

[Chuy]

4 or 6 cylinder? 4 has only the tensioner pulley, which has two replaceable bearings. The 6 has two idler bearings and the tensioner. Keep in mind chirpping could come from other bearings - water pump, alternator, power steering ... South Main Auto has a good youtube video on how to check the bearings using a long screw drive and cup to identify a bad bearing. With the belt off, you can check each bearing by feel.

 

[2009Camry1]

Shake all your pulleys to shack for play, spin for roughness.

Best

 

[headmotty]

It's a 4 cylinder, the 2AZ-FE. Thanks for that video info, very cool! I'll check it out.

 

[headmotty]

Does anyone know the Toyota part number for the tensioner/idler pulley for the 2007 Camry LE 2.4L. I see aftermarket ones, but would like to go genuine Toyota for this, and I can't find a part number anywhere so far.

 

[headmotty]

Found the Toyota part number for the tensioner assembly - 16620-0H021. But isn't just the pulley wheel itself replaceable? I found two that seem to fit: Dorman 419-662 (says plastic) or Dayco 89175 (says steel), and they're only like $20. Why don't I see videos/writeups of people removing the whole tensioner assembly, but then just replacing the pulley and reinstalling the old assembly? Why are people replacing the whole assembly for $175 or so?

And maybe it's possible to replace just the pulley without even removing the assembly? Anyone done this?

 

[Vangm25]

Found the Toyota part number for the tensioner assembly - 16620-0H021. But isn't just the pulley wheel itself replaceable? I found two that seem to fit: Dorman 419-662 (says plastic) or Dayco 89175 (says steel), and they're only like $20. Why don't I see videos/writeups of people removing the whole tensioner assembly, but then just replacing the pulley and reinstalling the old assembly? Why are people replacing the whole assembly for $175 or so?

And maybe it's possible to replace just the pulley without even removing the assembly? Anyone done this?

Take your pick. Unless I know the tensioner is not that old I would replace just the pulley. If I know it has some age, I would replace the entire thing. In my instance, I broke the bolt needed to release tension so I replaced the entire thing.

 

[headmotty]

OK, so I guess many people replacing the whole thing are doing so because they broke off that dummy bolt. But when you put the new assembly on, aren't you worried about again breaking off that bolt when you push on it to install the new belt?

 

[Vangm25]

OK, so I guess many people replacing the whole thing are doing so because they broke off that dummy bolt. But when you put the new assembly on, aren't you worried about again breaking off that bolt when you push on it to install the new belt?

1. Tensioner
2. Belt
3. Release tensioner
4. Pray it doesn't break the next time

It will or it won't, the main key is using the right tool. Improvising works but for me, all improvising did was make it easier to bust my knuckle. I would prefer the next time I do it to use either an dedicated special service tool or a really good universal serpentine belt tool so I can get the leverage to release the tension to take of the belt instead of trying to use two wrenches or a ratchet and a pipe.

With the older hydraulic style tensioner the key was to push slowly and it should release tension. I tried that and it didn't work since it was a spring. So all I did was struggle leveraging the tools and trying to get the belt off without getting my finger stuck should I screw up. Then the dummy belt broke.

It's your call on whether to replace only the pulley or the entire tensioner. Best to prepare for both.

 

[headmotty]

Thanks for all the info, man. Very helpful.

 

[JohnGD]

Also search rockauto and search up a 5% off code. Look at the Gates kit with the belt and tensioner if you need it. The heart symbol means popular item.

 

[mcgill_redmen]

Try to find Continental Elite (Goodyear Gatorback in the old days) it's a helicog design and stop squeal and chirp when car is starting, that belt is less prone to stretch. Continental is currently discontinuing this belt and if you able to find some old stock, is good to buy and install.

 

[headmotty]

Yes, already have the Continental Elite belt ready to go. Thanks.

 

[headmotty]

I've seen mention of reverse threaded bolts. Is the bolt holding the actual pulley to the tensioner assembly (not the long bolt holding the whole assembly to the block) a reverse thread?