Toyota Nation Forum banner

1 - 20 of 73 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
32 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
This is for all those interested in installing after market fog lights. My older son bought these for his younger brother for $70 to $80 on Ebay. They appear generic and have NO instructions. He bought these to surprise his brother while he's away. He'll be suprised when he comes home tomorrow and sees the damage I did to his car while backing it into the garage. I side swiped the garage heater and put a 2 foot gash in the passenger side rear quarter panel. I feel terrible about it and will get it fixed. But this is the first damage to his car that he takes good care of.

Over the years I have been on many forums and was very appreciative of those that posted pictures for people like us. So I took the time to pay back the favor with the below instructions. I hope it helps someone.




Step 1 is to back my son's Camry into the garage and inflict it with it's first damage. I couldn't believe I did this. My son is away and we are installing fog lights to surprise him. Oh he'll be surprised alright.



Closeup of the damage. I side swiped the garage heater. So much for saving money on this project.



This is one of 2 pieces of the underside carriage cowling which must be removed for the light installation. There are quite a few screws and clips holding these on.



These are those plugs/clips that hold the cowlings on. I used a small screwdiver and pryed the inside upward at the seam to release them. They don't hold as well when you reattach them.



Here is a look of those plug/clips after you pop the center up.



This is the factory trim piece that you remove to install the new ones with the lights. The factory trim pieces have much better tabs/clips to hold them in place. The trim pieces that come with the lights have weak tabs/clips and do not hold the trim piece to the car well at all. I broke several tabs off the new trim pieces. I put one screw in each piece of new trim to hold them on which you will see later.



Here is the back side of the factory trim piece. You can see the clips/tabs that must be released from behind to remove it. It isn't hard at all.



Here is one of two harnesses that come with the fog lights. The white plug will connect to another white plug on the other harness. The yellow and black connector attaches to the new fog lights. You only see one connector because the driver side connector is already attached to the fog light. Then you have a ground wire you must attach to a gound somewhere. You could even drill your own hole and attach it with a new screw. I attached this ground and the ground on the other harness to the same screw located up high below the driver side headlight.



This is the other harness that comes with the kit. A relay comes with it plus a fuse and fuse holder. No one that helped me knew where to plug in the gray connector with red wire and the brown connector with white wire. I took apart the driver side dash and couldn't find antwhere to connect them or anywhere under the hood. If you mount the switch in your dash, which I did not, then those gray and brown connectors MUST be connected under the dash because of the length. If you mount the switch in the dash those connectors are not long enough to stay in the engine compartment. I personaly think the connectors are generic and all the sets for all makes of cars have them. I think they are to be used if you splice into something you can get the matching ends to attach them to. I cut the connectors off as you will see later and left the switch under the hood in the "ON" position. This is a cheap switch and I don't like the feel of it. I wish it came with a better one. It does light up however. It's the switch mechanism that feels cheap. And the white connector to the right attaches to the other harness that I already showed you.



All the examples I show you will be from the driver side light. Those 2 tabs above are attached to the lights and slide into a slot in the body. They stay there because there are two tabs on the other side of the light of which one gets screwed to the body. That will stop those two above tabs from sliding out. But I wanted more security.



These are the other two tabs on the other side of the light. They are located behind the body and the upper one gets screwed to the body fom the back side which you will see later. You can't put a screw in the lower tab because it doesn' fit flush against the body. The body for the upper tab has a raised piece that meets up with this tab. I don't know why the lower isn't the same way.



Here are the left two tabs from the light again. The center of the tabs have holes. I stuck the drill bit in the hole and drilled a small hole all the way through so I can attach te tabs to the body for better secuity.



This is the trim piece for the new fog lights. The tabs/clips that are supposed to hold this piece in are cheap and weak. They do not stay on. So I drilled one hole in each trim piece up high and drilled through the body behind it. I then used one of the black screws with the kit to attach the trim piece.



Here is the screw attached holding the trim piece in. That screw WAS NOT for this purpose. It was for me to hold the trim piece on. I did not have a smaller black screw any where to use. I don't think I could have drilled a hole upward to attach it from underneath. Some of you might have more patience and try it. I'm cramped for time because my son comes home tomorrow.



Here is the backside of the fog light, To the left is the tab where you couldn't put a screw unless you put a spacer in there. You can see the one screw to the upper left. And you can see the other two tabs to the right which I drilled a pilot hole in from the front. The black knob I assume is the light beam angle adjustment. No instructions come with these kits. The green plug to the lower right is the factory plug for the factory fog lights. There is no power in it and you would probably need the steering wheel stalk to operate it. Any way it is of no use in this installation.



Tab screws attached



Another view of everything. I read somewhere on the forums that the yellow connectors are airbag sensors and to leave alone. They said yellow normally means airbag and there is yellow everywhere!!!



Driver side light in. It IS NOT on. It's a reflection. This harness I ran along the underneath front bumper. The harness is plenty long so don't worry. HOWEVER when you run this harness keep it away from sharp edges, the radiator and radiator hoses. Keep it away from the fan also. When you zip tie the harness in be careful YOU DO NOT USE ONE OF THE HOLES underneath that are for the plugs and screws for the under carraige cowling!! If you run a zip tie through one of those holes you won't be able to reattach the cowling.



This is the fuse box under the hood by the headlight. The first 2 blue 15 amp fuses to the lower ight are for the left and right high beams. The two above it are for the left and right low beams. They are marked. To you novices there is a lid for the fuse box so if you can't find it that's why!!



I cut that connector off the red wire which wasn't very long. I spliced in a longer piece. I soldered it on and used heat shrink to cover the joint. I'm a big fan of solder!! You can also see where I ran the red wire and entered the fuse box from. There is room so don't go drilling holes in the fuse box or fuse box lid.



To the left is the fuse that is in the harness and you can once again see the routing I took with the red wire. The red wire will eventually be hooked up to the Left Low Beam fuse.



To the left is the positive side of the battery. I cut the connector off the white wire and soldered on a connector to attach to the positive terminal screw. I crimped and soldered that connector. You can also see that cheap on/off switch for the lights next to the harness fuse. Bottom center is the relay that is attached to the kits harness. And to the right is the red wire attched to the 3rd from bottom blue fuse which is the Left side Low Beam fuse. You have to make sure that the bare red wire doesn't touch BOTH spades or you defeat the purpose of the fuse. I stripped a little off the end and ran it along side the spade. It doesn't matter which side of the fuse/spade you use. THIS HOOKUP turns on the fog lights when you turn your headlights on. The fog lights are on whether you use High beam or Low Beam. When your headlights are on your fog lights are on. Your supplied switch must ALSO be on or the fog lights won't work!! I'm not crazy about hooking the lights up this way. But when my son gets home I'll see how he wants the fog lights to work and see if he wants the switch in the dash. This is the only way I know at the current time. I might find a different way later. There is also plenty of slack left in the harness and the switch, fuse and relay are just laying there. I zip tied and taped up some of the slack.



Radiator cowling back on with those clips. Take your time with the clips. Make sure the inner plug is pulled upward and you will most likely have to squeeze the bottom part of the plug so you can get it in the mounting holes. You must push the cowling all the way down to the hole, then push the outer part of the plug all the way in and then push the center part of the plug in and and you will hear it lock. Like I said before these plugs never work as good when you reuse them.



All done. The fuse box lid is back on. It's a somewhat neat looking job. The only thing that needs to be done is AIM the fog lights. My kids can do that!! I gotta get a hold of the body shop to get an estimate of the damage I did while saving money!! One other thing. You can't put the 2 under carriage cowlings back on until you aim the fog lights. If not you can't access the fog light adjusters. Now to find a website that tells you how to properly adjust them. It drives me nuts to go down the road and someones fog lights are aimed high.



They are in but not on. But they do work!! Hope I was able to help some of you.
 

·
Registered
mtlc gry 07 SE
Joined
·
467 Posts
Wow, nice write up. Unfortunately your son will be more surprised about the damage you did than the mod you put in. Anyway, So you just used some sort of thin metal connector hooked to the red wire and plugged it in the fuse for the lo-beam? Do you have a close up pic of that? I'm planning on doing a similar mod, but this time with angel eyes. Either I want it to turn on when DRL is on, or just make a completely separate harness that has an on/off switch. Thanks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
32 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Wow, nice write up. Unfortunately your son will be more surprised about the damage you did than the mod you put in. Anyway, So you just used some sort of thin metal connector hooked to the red wire and plugged it in the fuse for the lo-beam? Do you have a close up pic of that? I'm planning on doing a similar mod, but this time with angel eyes. Either I want it to turn on when DRL is on, or just make a completely separate harness that has an on/off switch. Thanks.
No connector on the red wire. I stripped about a half inch off and twisted the strands good and then held it against the side and pushed the fuse down against it. These are tiny fuses. It would have been much better if they were the larger fuses. One of the photos must show the stripped end of the red wire. You really couldn't put a connector on it and then have it fit. But I think they do make fuses that you can attach a wire to. But I needed to get this job done. We'll discuss it further when he gets home. I just hope he doesn't want to put the switch in the dash and use it. It felt so cheap I'd be afraid it will break in no time.

Hopefully someone will eventually post a different and better way for the electrical hookup. Like I stated in the post there are not any instructions with this kit.
 

·
Registered
mtlc gry 07 SE
Joined
·
467 Posts
I just read the other post on DIY fog lights install and I see now what you mean by connecting a wire to the lo-beam fuse. I'll do that in the future with the halo's.

BTW, I think it would've been better (and cheaper) if someone just washed his car as a surprise lol.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
32 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
nice. Thanks man. This will help with my foglight installation, but i bought a switch from autozone. It looks a lot better than the supplied switch the foglight comes with.
I thought of a new switch but wouldn't know which wire to connect to which post of the new switch. Unless you cut and splice into the white and red wire to make them longer you will have to make those connections under the dashboard somewhere. If the switch is in the dash then the red and white wires will not be long enough to reach the engine compartment.

I'm not good at all when it comes to automotive electric.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
32 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
I just read the other post on DIY fog lights install and I see now what you mean by connecting a wire to the lo-beam fuse. I'll do that in the future with the halo's.

BTW, I think it would've been better (and cheaper) if someone just washed his car as a surprise lol.
Dirty or not he WILL notice the scratch. But I gotta tell him before he sees it. And black is terrible for showing dirt. His car also stays outside. My wife parks in the garage where his car is now.
 

·
Registered
mtlc gry 07 SE
Joined
·
467 Posts
No need to splice and dice. Go to Radioshack and purchase a couple of T-taps for 18-22 gauge. The T-taps look like these,

http://images.google.com/images?q=t-tap&ie=UTF-8&oe=utf-8&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&client=firefox-a&um=1&sa=N&tab=wi

Then just buy some 18-22 gauge red and white wires (or color of your preference) and use the T-taps to connect the existing wires with the additional wires. As for buying the right switch, someone else might want to chime in on that. Good luck.

I thought of a new switch but wouldn't know which wire to connect to which post of the new switch. Unless you cut and splice into the white and red wire to make them longer you will have to make those connections under the dashboard somewhere. If the switch is in the dash then the red and white wires will not be long enough to reach the engine compartment.

I'm not good at all when it comes to automotive electric.
 

·
Loving the camry =)
Toyota Camry
Joined
·
330 Posts
just go autozone and get those minibottles of paint scratch coverups. they color match to the brand of the car so it's pretty close and then i'm sure if you buff it out, it'd look exactly like new. well not really... =P
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
341 Posts
i am gonna say in the 250 range to repaint the bumper cover, buff i dout it it looks like it is to the plastic.



to make u feel better i was doing a, e46 retro on one of my friends f-150, i pulled it into the garage, set the park brake, and hopped out. i went to pop the hood and yanked the park brake release lever instead, my garage is at an angle, but as i pulled it, he pushed the button on the door, and the truck and garage door hit hard. it stopped the door midway down and smashed his tail light. the garage door is an old one made out of solid wood, other wise i think it would of went through it. and if the door was still open and i hadnt been able to jump inside(* was hitting hte brake as it hit), that truck would of rolled bout a 300 foot hill. lucky, i had a set of blacked out taillights i was gonna put on the truck later that day after the retro, so it all work out.
and for some reason wouldnt let me pop the hood any more.


but those fogs look cool, but is that blue bulbs under yellow polycarbonite? does it light up green?
 

·
Registered
2015 Subaru WRX STI
Joined
·
4,407 Posts
+1 on using the touch-up paint. It won't be perfect, but it would be better for you to do that at least for now so it's not as obvious you scratched his car, then after you've done some research you can bring his car in to get the scratch repaired.

Any Toyota dealer should have the paint for around $7-$10.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
32 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
+1 on using the touch-up paint. It won't be perfect, but it would be better for you to do that at least for now so it's not as obvious you scratched his car, then after you've done some research you can bring his car in to get the scratch repaired.

Any Toyota dealer should have the paint for around $7-$10.
I have to pick him up at the airport in a couple hours. When we get home I'll break the news to him. I have an appointment with Toyota Tuesday for an estimate. I plan on fixing it ASAP.
 

·
The O-Sho
2007 Toyota Camry LE
Joined
·
357 Posts
Very nice and detailed fog light installation guide. Exactly what I was looking for. Thanks a lot, appreciate it.
 

·
Registered
2012 Camry SE I4
Joined
·
164 Posts
Kevinscamry...LOL..I love the way you "scribbled" all over the pictures....using Microsoft Paint (I assume)....did you know you could have selected a Text font such as Arial & inscribed text into pictures. Although you don't write too bad with a mouse cursor...LOL...

By the way, great effort on installing the fog lights and sorry you scratched up your son's car..I am sure he will be forgiving....Good luck.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
32 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
Kevinscamry...LOL..I love the way you "scribbled" all over the pictures....using Microsoft Paint (I assume)....did you know you could have selected a Text font such as Arial & inscribed text into pictures. Although you don't write too bad with a mouse cursor...LOL...

By the way, great effort on installing the fog lights and sorry you scratched up your son's car..I am sure he will be forgiving....Good luck.
Vinnie,
This was the first time that I ever posted photos to a forum and it was the first time I ever tried to edit photos. I played around with the editing feature a little bit and tried to use text but didn't figure it out. Writing with the mouse was a pain.
 

·
2014.5 Toyota Camry SE
2014.5 Camry SE
Joined
·
172 Posts
Hey guys, I work at the Toyota plant in Georgetown. He did too much work. All Camry's have the foglamp connections behind the bumper. They're taped up, but you can see them, and it's not hard to pull them away from that tape. Put in your foglights, replace the headlight switch with the one for factory foglights, and you're good to go.
 
1 - 20 of 73 Posts
Top