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Discussion Starter #1
Hey all...new to the group. Trying to help my buddy get his daughter's 09 Corolla, 1.8L VTT back on the road and it's REALY whoopin' my @$$. Here's what he's told me going into the fix: Car overheated and wouldn't run. Found it threw serpentine belt because water pump pulley was "wobbling". My buddy installed a new water pump, T-stat, and belt. The car wouldn't start, so he sent it to a shop. Shop told him he needs a new motor (not likely). While at the shop somebody attempted to steal it, busting up the ignition body and the Immobilizer Amplifier Ring.


He brings car to me. Here's what I replaced:
Replace head gasket (kit came w/all new valve cover/intake gaskets)
Install remanufactured Cylinder Head
New Timing kit, including Oil Pump and VTT Gear (YES, timing is SPOT ON).
New Radiator
New Cam Sensor
New Plugs


After assembly, the cooling fan remained on anytime the ignition was on. It cranks, but won't start. I got fuel to the rail, spark, but no injector signal. Soldered the broken wires back onto the Transponder Amp. Ring (and also swapped 2 junkyard spares and no change); Checked ALL FUSES/RELAYS under hood and dash; and replaced the ignition body (reusing the original key & lock cylinder). Got P0117 and P0118 codes. Found bad temp sensor and replaced it and cleared the codes. Got injector signal back, fan functions correctly, no codes, but still won't start.


It acts like it wants to start. If I crank it for about 10sec, it almost catches. It had the ECU replaced years ago (p/n89661-02K23). Security light goes out when key is inserted, so pretty sure nothing goofy with immo system. Any help would be GREATLY appreciated.
 

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19 Corolla HB SE 6-spd
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Did you check your ground cables and connections? One ground cable from engine head driver's side to chassis near strut tower. Also ground connections underneath battery on chassis, and on top of tranny... All vacuum hoses are in place, including brake booster vacuum hose hidden behind intake manifold near TB?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yes, even scraped surfaces/paint to ensure I have good ground. All hoses and connections are where they should be.

Fuel pressure is 46psi when cranking, about 45 at rest for a few minutes, then drops to 32psi.
 

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Did you disconnect the ECU at any point? Try using a paperclip and jump Pin 4 on the top and pin 4 on the bottom.

Top row, pin 4 is counting from the left. Bottom row, pin 4 is counting from the right. You will need to wait 30 minutes to crank.

The immobilizer will prevent firing, but will continue to crank.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
All injectors measure 11.6 to 12ohms.

CPS is measuring 1vAC when cranking.

Seems like all is doing what it should. What am I missing??
 

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Try jumping the obd connector. Worth a shot
 

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Discussion Starter #11
BTW, it is cranking VERY WELL. It just won't grab, if that makes sense. It sputters a tad after about 10sec of holding ignition, but wont fire up.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Fresh fuel...half a tank now, but when he brought it to me it had less than an eighth. Thought the gas may have gone sour. He said it over heated in may, so no go there either.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Did you disconnect the ECU at any point? Try using a paperclip and jump Pin 4 on the top and pin 4 on the bottom.

Top row, pin 4 is counting from the left. Bottom row, pin 4 is counting from the right. You will need to wait 30 minutes to crank.

The immobilizer will prevent firing, but will continue to crank.
75, I reread what you said about the ECU. I did reseat all of the connectors (w/battery removed). I've even left battery disconnected overnight.

Are the Amps matched to the key and ECU?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Trying the 30min relearn again. Is it normal to hear a high pitched humming from throttle body while this is relearning?
 

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You shouldn't crank it until 30 mins to connect to the key. No idea if there's supposed to be humming during the reprogram of the key. If this doesn't work, then suspect the ignition signal.

I got the same crank issue when I was programming my key. It was cranking but not starting.

If this doesn't work, then test your starter for function. You got spark, but it's not firing and fuel pressure is good.

It's also possible that the ECU could be bad or some how the harness got damaged going to the ECU.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
If this doesn't work, then test your starter for function. You got spark, but it's not firing and fuel pressure is good.

It's also possible that the ECU could be bad or some how the harness got damaged going to the ECU.
Reprogram didn't work. Pretty sure it can't be the immo. I have fuel, spark, and injector signal & ticking. Doesn't immo block injector signal?

I'm gonna try to hit a junkyard & see if i can find a handfull of injectors & sensors to use for troubleshooting. I'll swap in one at a time until I find the culprit. A better scanner would be REALLY handy right now!
 

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Sounds like the immobilizer unit is bad.

The ECU does block the ignition signal when key isn't programmed to ECU.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Sounds like the immobilizer unit is bad.

The ECU does block the ignition signal when key isn't programmed to ECU.
If that's the case, I wouldn't have spark or injector signal, right? Security light goes off when key is inserted. If there was a malfunction with the system, it's supposed to go solid.
 

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You will have spark and fuel even though the immobilizer doesn't register the key.

I swapped for a matrix xrs ECU in my 06 Corolla xrs. It cranks fine, but no start. Double check the continuity in the immobilzer amplifier for signal to ground and for power.

Security light should just blink.
 
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