[sharkinstx]

We have a 2008 Sienna with the 3.5l 2GR-FE V6, with 195,000 miles. Lately we have a chirping noise under the hood, in the area of the drive belt tensioner and the No. 2 (right) idler pulley. The other night, while the engine was idling, I touched a Phillips screwdriver to the bolt on the No. 2 idler puller, and the bolt for the tensioner. The No. 2 idler pulley was smooth, while the tensioner was rough.

The tensioner (p/n 16620-31040) for the 2GR-FE includes the pulley, the tensioner, and the bracket, which has five bolts which face the front. The bolts are behind the a/c compressor, which would have to be moved for clearance.

My question is, can the bolt on the front of the tensioner be removed, and the pulley be replaced separately? I have found a part number (16603-31040) for the tensioner pulley by itself.

Has anyone out there changed the tensioner pulley without the rest of the tensioner? The torque value for the No. 1 and No. 2 pulley bolts is 32 ft-lb, so is it the same for the bolt on the tensioner pulley? The bolt on the tensioner pulley is the one used to move the tensioner, to remove tension on the drive belt for removal. My plane is to replace the drive belt, the tensioner pulley, and the No. 1 and No. 2 idler pulleys.

 

[BenjiBoy650]

I'm very interested to hear your results. How did you find the tensioner pulley #? I have a 2010 RX350 with the 2GR and plan to do the same thing. It would be awesome if this could be done instead of pressing bearings in and out. The bolt can be remove but it is a left hand thread bolt...so it becomes righty loosey.

 

[sharkinstx]

I haven't done it yet, because it hasn't been making noise, although I started it up today and it was noisy again.

It doesn't require pressing any bearings - it's just a bolt that you have to remove. Where did you read that the tensioner bolt has left-hand threads? I was thinking that was the case, since you move the tensioner to remove tension on the belt by turning it counterclockwise with a wrench, and you wouldn't want the bolt loosening as you're trying to release tension. I found some eBay sellers offering a kit with all three pulleys (the two idlers plus the tensioner pulley) and a belt. Some are aftermarket parts, some use all Toyota parts. That's where I found the Toyota part number.

 

[BenjiBoy650]

I would be careful of the assumptions that eBay sellers make in the parts they package up. I looked up the belt kit for my 2010 RX350 and there were sellers with kits for "2010-2015 RX350" that had a belt, two idlers, and a tensioner pulley. There is only one idler on the 2010+ RX due to the electric power steering. That's why I was curious to see how you found the pulley, because the part number doesn't cross reference to the 2GR. Other sellers are including two idlers and advertising that one is for the tensioner, which is not true. The idler uses a different sized bearing, the key being that it's not as wide, thus less able to handle the constant extreme side load that a tensioner would put on the bearing. So I'm still a bit skeptical that 16603-31040 is the right pulley, but I might give it a try...I'd prefer that over pressing in new bearings. And from the pictures of the part on eBay, it does look like the correct width of bearing.

I've read it the left hand thread reference multiple places, but here are a few just for reference. I assume that they are all pretty much the same tensioner.

2005 Avalon Idler & Tensioner Pulley Repaired...

This post is the end result of a bunch of running around to repair the two idler pulleys and tensioner pulley on my 2005 Avalon XL. There was a squeak in the belt area when the car was in gear. It was more prevalent when the AC was on too. I had the car in for the brake recall (4th or 5th recall...

www.toyotanation.com

Tensioner Pulley Bearing - I4 and V6 3.5

In the last six weeks I replaced the tensioner pulley bearing in my daughter's 06 Camry I4, and the tensioner pulley in wife's 07 ES350 V6. There are some interesting details to point out... But first a little disclaimer. Before replacing the tensioner pulley check that the tensioner...

www.toyotanation.com

 

[BenjiBoy650]

Also as a side note, how's the Sienna been in the long haul? I'd like to keep the RX long term but am afraid of a big failure, like the trans going out

 

[sharkinstx]

It could be that part number 16603-31040 is the pulley, but doesn't show up because they don't sell the part separate from the tensioner assembly. It is interesting that last five digits of the part number are the same as for the tensioner (maybe that's a coincidence). Of course, you could always buy the whole tensioner and only replace the pulley/bearing (and the bolt). You wouldn't save any money on the part, but you'd know it was the right pulley/bearing.

As for the Sienna, it's been pretty reliable. We bought it eleven years go with 83,000 miles, and it now has 195,000. Besides normal maintenance, it's needed one coil pack, one of the speed sensors (the turbine input sensor), a fuel pump, a new steering rack and front drive axles (all Toyota parts), along with a new other minor parts like a door switch for the interior lights, and the liftgate switch.

 

[BenjiBoy650]

I also notice the "coincidence" with the -31040, which is why I think it is possibly the right pulley. I briefly considered buying a tensioner and swapping the pulley, but it's big money. I also considered buying a used tensioner off a wrecked vehicle so I could have the pulley for cheap, but you never know how long it has been sitting and if it's no good. The part number we mentioned is shown in Toyota parts catalog as a standalone part, it is utilized in the 2.7L 4cyl Tacoma engine as an idler pulley. I'm hoping to find one from a place where I could return it if it isn't the right one. Or maybe post in a Tacoma forum to see if anybody has one and can get some dimensions for us.

2007-2019 Toyota Idler Pulley 16603-31040 | Toyota Parts

Genuine Factory 2007-2019 Toyota part # 16603-31040 - Idler Pulley. McGeorge Toyota Parts is your choice for Toyota Parts and Toyota accessories. We are a factory authorized Toyota Dealer with Toyota parts and Toyota accessories all at wholesale prices for your Tundra, Tacoma, Camry, Corolla...

toyotaparts.mcgeorgetoyota.com

How often do you change the transmission fluid on the sienna, or is it original? Primarily a highway cruiser I presume and not an around town or tow vehicle?

 

[BenjiBoy650]

Forgot to mention, if you don't mind using aftermarket parts, there is one manufacturer that makes the tensioner pulley specifically for us. It's the Febest #0187-GSU45. Available on Amazon, but I found it cheaper on eBay. I plan to use this as a last resort, because I bet it's made in China and I've not heard real good things about the quality. Some do say if you open the bearings and pack with grease before installing, it's fine, but to me that defeats the purpose of buying a ready made solution.

 

[Riick]

I had an 05 Avalon, same engine, etc. Had new bearings put into both the tensioner and
idlers.
As i remember, tensioner used two identical bearings side by side. All the bearings had to be pressed out and in, but you could probably do it using a vise.

There's a write-up in the Avalon forum that also specifies the bearings you need. I'm sure you can find it. Good Luck !

 

[breiner]

I recently replaced the Idler Pulleys and Belt Tensioner Pulley using FEBEST brand on my 2007 Sienna LE 3.5L V6 with 102K. The Idler Pulleys are listed on Amazon as
FEBEST 0188-2GRFE Idler Pulley and the Tensioner Pulley is listed on Amazon as FEBEST 0187-GSU45 Idler Pulley

The Tensioner Pulley is easy to change if you have a Serpentine Belt wrench...just remember RIGHT (clock-wise) to loosen and LEFT (counter-clockwise) to tighten. The quality seems very good to me...but time will tell.

Unfortunately, this didn't fix the chirping noise that I'm getting. Probably if I had a grinding noise, then replacing the pulley would have fixed it. Lesson Learned....
The belt is several months old (GATES brand) so I don't think this is contributing to the noise. I also tried with a new BANDO brand belt and same chirp.

Finally, after a few months, I decided to replace the Alternator as I saw videos with similar chirp which gets worse with the AC on, and this solved the chirping mystery! Here is my recap video:

 

[Riick]

^^
I can't figure how the tensioner mechanism - spring - could make that noise, but I guess it's a possibility. Suggest you pick up a mechanics stethoscope at Harbor Freight --- if you have one nearby ($5) LINK
Makes it much easier to be sure where the noise is coming from.
..

 

[breiner]

Thanks. I picked up a HB stethoscope yesterday actually.

 

[Riick]

Great minds think alike

 

[Shaqtech]

We have a 2008 Sienna with the 3.5l 2GR-FE V6, with 195,000 miles. Lately we have a chirping noise under the hood, in the area of the drive belt tensioner and the No. 2 (right) idler pulley. The other night, while the engine was idling, I touched a Phillips screwdriver to the bolt on the No. 2 idler puller, and the bolt for the tensioner. The No. 2 idler pulley was smooth, while the tensioner was rough.

The tensioner (p/n 16620-31040) for the 2GR-FE includes the pulley, the tensioner, and the bracket, which has five bolts which face the front. The bolts are behind the a/c compressor, which would have to be moved for clearance.

My question is, can the bolt on the front of the tensioner be removed, and the pulley be replaced separately? I have found a part number (16603-31040) for the tensioner pulley by itself.

Has anyone out there changed the tensioner pulley without the rest of the tensioner? The torque value for the No. 1 and No. 2 pulley bolts is 32 ft-lb, so is it the same for the bolt on the tensioner pulley? The bolt on the tensioner pulley is the one used to move the tensioner, to remove tension on the drive belt for removal. My plane is to replace the drive belt, the tensioner pulley, and the No. 1 and No. 2 idler pulleys.

It could be that part number 16603-31040 is the pulley, but doesn't show up because they don't sell the part separate from the tensioner assembly. It is interesting that last five digits of the part number are the same as for the tensioner (maybe that's a coincidence). Of course, you could always buy the whole tensioner and only replace the pulley/bearing (and the bolt). You wouldn't save any money on the part, but you'd know it was the right pulley/bearing.

As for the Sienna, it's been pretty reliable. We bought it eleven years go with 83,000 miles, and it now has 195,000. Besides normal maintenance, it's needed one coil pack, one of the speed sensors (the turbine input sensor), a fuel pump, a new steering rack and front drive axles (all Toyota parts), along with a new other minor parts like a door switch for the interior lights, and the liftgate switch.

its seem a lot to me replacing all those parts under 200k mile, regular maintenance is for sure but replacing fuel pump, steering rack, drive axles, I have two sienna vehicles and I maintain my vehicles very well and never use aftermarket parts but still few times but still couple of times Sienna let me down and left me off the street without any prior warning, I’m seriously losing trust on Toyota, recently purcha

It could be that part number 16603-31040 is the pulley, but doesn't show up because they don't sell the part separate from the tensioner assembly. It is interesting that last five digits of the part number are the same as for the tensioner (maybe that's a coincidence). Of course, you could always buy the whole tensioner and only replace the pulley/bearing (and the bolt). You wouldn't save any money on the part, but you'd know it was the right pulley/bearing.

As for the Sienna, it's been pretty reliable. We bought it eleven years go with 83,000 miles, and it now has 195,000. Besides normal maintenance, it's needed one coil pack, one of the speed sensors (the turbine input sensor), a fuel pump, a new steering rack and front drive axles (all Toyota parts), along with a new other minor parts like a door switch for the interior lights, and the liftgate switch.

I don’t know why Toyota doesn’t sell the tensioner pulley separate, I don’t get what’s their strategy regarding and forcing to buy the whole unit, when it’s way more expensive and on the top, labor is more due to more work to be done if someone has to take to the mechanic, I use siennas for business purpose and I have couple of siennas and been using siennas for years but sienna is, I would say Toyota is losing trust slowly, I maintain my vehicles very well and always use original parts but still sienna let me down more than couple of times seriously without any reasonable warning and as you said you have to replaced fuel pump, steering rack, drive axles, all these under 200k, that was not used to be Toyota’s attitude, Toyota was long living vehicles without any major work, I have observed Toyota owners gone but vehicles but now.

 

[drcoffee]

when I had a 2008 sienna I changed the bearings in the idler pulleys and installed a new belt while I was in there. The bearing you want is a non-Chinese bearing like skf or koyo size 6203 2RS. $6 ea on ebay. Use a ratchet socket to press in and out. its far better than a new pulley from the big box with the cheapest bearing they can source. The back one was a little tricky to get to.

tensioner: it uses a different size bearing if I recall (thicker 5203-2RS). The center hole is smaller than the bolt and you need a bushing to fill the void. Unfortunately, you may need to buy the pulley from rockauto, but yes the bolt is reverse threaded and you dont need to remove the whole tensioner. Righty loosey, Lefty tighty.