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So my 97k mile 2008 Highlander Limited has the 1 second death rattle on cold start. This guy on YouTube claims simply changing the valve cover gasket, and cleaning the banjo filter. When I took my engine cover off I noticed 2 bolts were missing off the top of the valve cover. My friend thinks this may be the case for all 2008 Highlanders, and factory specs may not necessarily require bolts there. Anyone know how I can find this out? I'm thinking these 2?missing bolts could be the cause of my issues. I'll try to attach pics.
 

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2008 Highlander Limited AWD, 2007 RAV4 Sport AWD V6
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Those two holes are not utilized in your vehicle, you are not missing anything. It is definitely not the cause of the rattle. The 2GR-FE engine is used in a lot of applications before and after your 08 Highlander. I have seen a youtube video that suggests that you check/clean the VVTi screens under the banjo bolts, all of the oil control valves, and replace the 5 small o-rings under each valve cover. Lots of people have experienced VVTi rattle for many years without any further failure. This has happened with several other manufacturers as well. I would not call this a death rattle as failure is not immanent.
 

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My question is what do a couple of empty screw/bolt holes have to do with a rattle that only last 1 sec during a cold start? If they are the cause, the rattle would still be there after that 1 sec.

There are different parts that can cause a short 'rattle' during a cold start, chain tensioner, cam gear, etc. Try to locate the source, the area where the rattle is coming from first!
 

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2009 Highlander Limited 3.5, every factory option
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Interesting, mine had a knocking noise which led to an engine swap at 200k. But, I never had the startup rattle even at that mileage.
 

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My vvt failed at 150K miles (235K km); 6 days after purchase used. Had the rattle on cold start but I shame on me for not researching before purchase:(
 

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Highlander(s)
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In the video the CCN notes there was a production defect in the 2008s. Though in all cases timely (5k) OCI with proper synthetic oils help immensely. In another video (which escapes me at the moment) he examines why 0W20 oil is spec'd and why it should be used rather than heavier oils but, in a nutshell he notes it's to help get oil to the valve train as quickly as possible.
 

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2009 Highlander Limited 3.5, every factory option
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Mine failed as well ('09). Previous OCI on mine wasn't amazing but the engine upon teardown wasn't terrible from a sludge standpoint. With my mileage, I elected to do an engine swap instead and found one with 50k miles. With lower mileage, I might have repaired it.
 

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"not terrible sludge" meant it was present. If you watch the video made by TCCN you will see how minuscule the passages are. Any sludge I am sure is totally not tolerated. Hell, my nephew has a late model Buick with an EcoTec engine. He took it to an oil change place (assuming they'd know what to put in). Very short time later started getting MIL codes for cam timing. His dad called me, looking for advice. I asked him about the oil change, nephew went back to shop and asked. They told him they put 5W30 in it like they do on nearly all cars. Kid had them change it with correct 0W20. Absolutely nothing else done to car and MIL codes went away. Yeah modern engines are THAT sensitive. You cannot play armchair engineer any more
 

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"not terrible sludge" meant it was present. If you watch the video made by TCCN you will see how minuscule the passages are. Any sludge I am sure is totally not tolerated. Hell, my nephew has a late model Buick with an EcoTec engine. He took it to an oil change place (assuming they'd know what to put in). Very short time later started getting MIL codes for cam timing. His dad called me, looking for advice. I asked him about the oil change, nephew went back to shop and asked. They told him they put 5W30 in it like they do on nearly all cars. Kid had them change it with correct 0W20. Absolutely nothing else done to car and MIL codes went away. Yeah modern engines are THAT sensitive. You cannot play armchair engineer any more
Yeah, I would get these old timers coming in telling me to put 10w-30 or 20w-50 in their engines that call for 0w-20. I'd tell them to take it somewhere else. I'm not going to be blamed for somebody's stupid choices.

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