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Not sure about the IX's... otherwise my TT's were out-of-stock on Rock Auto when I was ordering it so they are pretty popular.
Just checked the prices on RA, the TTs, are a few cents cheaper than the LLs. TBH, I've just been maintaining my car through the Toyota dealer, so I never had to check my plugs as to if they were Denso or NGK (My services are work write offs). I think they are due for a replacement soon because of the time, but like the OP, I am considering a new car, so what I do with my Corolla is up in the air.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
According to this site, DTC P0354 Ignition Coil D Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction that cylinder 4 is wired to the ECU. You can test the signal, but will need more scan tools. Grounding might be an issue too.
That helps. So from your previous post, the best thing to do is to swap the coil from #4 with #3, and see if there is a "ignition coil C" malfunction to conclude that it's the ignition coil?
 

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That helps. So from your previous post, the best thing to do is to swap the coil from #4 with #3, and see if there is a "ignition coil C" malfunction to conclude that it's the ignition coil?
you can reset the MIL and then see if you get a code P0353 instead of P0354.
 

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Hey,

So my mechanic said my CEL diagnosis is that either or both the spark plugs and the ignition coils need to be replaced. I haven't changed the spark plugs in a while.

1. Should I change everything or just start off with the spark plugs and see whether the CEL comes on again? Don't want to destroy my catalytic converter, obviously.

2. Is it okay buying the cheapest spark plugs I can find at a big box store? My corolla is at 185K miles, and I'm not looking to spend big bucks on maintenance that are inevitable at this point. Plus I plan to sell the car within this year or next.

Thank you
Do not waste your money going cheap on spark plugs. You can see right away when you pull the spark plugs how worn they are- use a wire feeler gauge. At 185K, you can't expect them to not have very wide gaps. But, since you have the OBD2 code, it clearly blames the coil on plug number 4. Lookit: DTC P0354 Ignition Coil D Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Do not waste your money going cheap on spark plugs. You can see right away when you pull the spark plugs how worn they are- use a wire feeler gauge. At 185K, you can't expect them to not have very wide gaps. But, since you have the OBD2 code, it clearly blames the coil on plug number 4. Lookit: DTC P0354 Ignition Coil D Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction
Yeah, that's the only website that tells you it's "D" means Coil#4 which I presume is the one closest to the back of the engine, which to confirm is in front of the passenger side of the car.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Should I change the spark plugs first, since it's well over the scheduled interval? Or wait till I get an answer with the ignition coil swap? I was going to change the plugs today until I found the code to be ignition coil related, and no misfire codes.
 

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Do this method instead.

Take each coil and plug and set it on the valve cover. Then crank the engine to verify its arcing.

Edit : 1 at a time.

This will help with diagnosing a bad plug or bad coil.

If they all arc blue, your good. If orange, it's hot. Need to change it.
 

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No. It's to see if the coil is energizing the spark plugs or not. If the arc is orange, then that says the plug is getting too much energy from the coil pack.

The gap of the electrode on the spark plug has to be maintained at this point. This can be achieved by switching the coil to the one that is arcing orange to rule out that coil.
 

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Sorry. Not sure how that works. Colors show up? Is it dangerous?
If you decide to pull the plugs and crank to look for a spark, pull the fuel pump fuse first so the engine won’t actually start with a plug out.

If I were you, I’d swap the coils before changing the plugs to see if the problem follows the coil. If the problem follows the coil, replace the coil (if you can, do all 4) and spark plugs. If the problem doesn’t move with the coil, replace the spark plugs only and continue troubleshooting if needed (that should rule out the coil).
 

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An orange spark is a weak spark that might not be able to bridge the gap when inside the cylinder under compression. You want to have a bright bluish white spark. That is why it's recommended you use high quality iridium spark plugs, so they can handle the high energy ignition systems in these cars without burning the plugs. I've never heard of an ignition system putting out too much energy, as a hotter spark means better combustion.
 

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Discussion Starter #35
I swapped the ignition pack from cylinder 4 with cylinder 1. Haven't gotten CEL yet, so this issue is very intermittent. Should I still change the spark plugs anyways. My car is 187K mileage and I can't seem to find my service history of changing it before, so I'm guessing it wayyy overdue.

I don't have rough idle, but some intuitive feeling makes me think the acceleration is a bit too slow. I don't know. Also after a cold start, the idle RPM is above 1000, almost close to 2000. Car seems to accelerate at cold start idle. But after driving it for a bit, the idle goes back to normal

Btw there was a bit of rust (water damage) on both ignition packs.
 

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Do the plugs! Factory stays to change them at 100k, I didn’t mine just shy of 100 and you could tell and see clearly they were getting tired (electrodes were opened, and the ceramic on the top side where your socket goes was burnt also) cheap insurance


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Bad plugs can make you pull your hair out, I’ve had them go out in my snowmobiles, and literally chased what I thought was the problem, but it was a bad plug, even in my motorcycle I had running/popping issues, figured it was bad gas or a throttle body out of sync, it was a bad plug, it’s the most overlooked item


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Discussion Starter #39
So you're saying even with no symptoms of rough idle, or common bad spark plug issues, there might be something I'm not noticing that could be because of bad plugs? Which I probably will find out after changing them, such as smoother acceleration, etc?
 

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So you're saying even with no symptoms of rough idle, or common bad spark plug issues, there might be something I'm not noticing that could be because of bad plugs? Which I probably will find out after changing them, such as smoother acceleration, etc?
Pretty much. It’s not like major “oh my god I’ve got sooo much better power and performance” but you might notice a bit of change, I’ve never pushed a cars plugs that far, but I bet you would notice a difference


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