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Discussion Starter #41
I'm also assuming that bad spark plugs can damage the ignition coil, which could be a reason behind my ignition coil malfunction, correct?
 

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I'm also assuming that bad spark plugs can damage the ignition coil, which could be a reason behind my ignition coil malfunction, correct?
Bad plug could not spark at times, which the computer isn’t gonna “sense” the plug being fired, and trip that, the computer isn’t able to tell which it is (plug or ignition coil) I’d toss some plugs in her and run it, and see what happen, $20-$30 in plugs isn’t gonna be a bad thing


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Discussion Starter #43
Oh really? Thought there was two different computer inputs for specifically spark plugs and ignition coils.
 

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Oh really? Thought there was two different computer inputs for specifically spark plugs and ignition coils.
I don’t have a wiring diagram, but it’s just a single plugin on the coil-on-plug pack, which should just be the energize/trigger wiring, these cars are pretty much the last of a “basic” easy to work on car


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Discussion Starter #45
Yes you're right, its just a plugin onto the pack itself only, so it makes sense that it could be either the ignition pack or the spark plug when a "ignition coil malfunction" is tripped.
 

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The computer basically isn’t seeing it spark, so it’s saying coil, which it could be, you said you moved it but haven’t seen another cel since, it’s a crapshoot at this point, but I’m leaning more towards plugs being 187k on likely the original plugs, but don’t be shocked if it’s a coil, and if it is, go denso/Toyota, others will just give you a migraine with the computer throwing codes, Toyota’s seem to only love oem denso parts


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Discussion Starter #47
Yeah, probably have drove about 20 miles, and haven't gotten a CEL or anything abnormal while driving since switching the coils. I also checked service history and I feel I didn't change the plugs at 120K, so it's probably still with factory plugs.
 

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I drive a metric shit-ton, one way to work is 26 miles, since my oil chance 2/14 I’ve put almost 3k on my car


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Discussion Starter #49
I'm thinking about just grabbing the NGK G-power. Won't be keeping the car past another 40K
 

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I’m keeping mine till it’s got weight reduction holes or it costs too much to fix


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By the time I’m done with the car, it’ll be worth nothing, the body isn’t great (previous owner had some accidents in the right rear by looking more and more) paint is trashed, and it’s been here in New York it’s whole life, I’m half tempted in a couple years to find a southern corolla and if mines running fine, make 2 into one


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Discussion Starter #53
Yeah my body is in perfect condition, but I dinged the edge of my passenger door, and left it unchecked for a year, and rust began building under the paint; until just few months ago, the paint chipped off and now i have OCD over the rust.
 

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Yeah my body is in perfect condition, but I dinged the edge of my passenger door, and left it unchecked for a year, and rust began building under the paint; until just few months ago, the paint chipped off and now i have OCD over the rust.
Don’t live in the salt belt then, this is the carnage from salt, these were solid 2 years ago



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3 weeks ago my Corolla misfired and almost stalled. The CEL came on with code P0353, which is an ignition coil in cylinder #3. I learned a long time ago from a pretty good mechanic that you always, always reset a CEL and see if it happens again. I reset it then and it has run smoothly since with no light. I would advise resetting the light and monitor (especially if no symptoms).
I agree that you should always clear the code first and see if it returns. This is the benefit of having a Scangauge2 in my car. I've had a CEL come on, I scan the code and clear it without even stopping. Most every time the CEL has never come back on.
 

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Yeah my body is in perfect condition, but I dinged the edge of my passenger door, and left it unchecked for a year, and rust began building under the paint; until just few months ago, the paint chipped off and now i have OCD over the rust.
I'm lucky because I don't live in the salt belt, and never will. My 2009 Corolla is in excellent condition with zero rust. If anything ever happens I get it fixed right away by either myself or a shop if I can't do it.
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Buy the coil and change the plugs and get it over with. If you are going to sell the car, just buy what you need. Autolite are good cheap plugs. Buy them pre gapped and do the next owner a favor and put a little anti seize on the threads of the plug. Get a spark plug socket that has a boot in it to keep the spark plug from falling out as you go to lower the spark plug into the valley of where it will be seated. The plug does not need to be tight. After hand tightening, get your socket and turn until snug.
 

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Buy the coil and change the plugs and get it over with. If you are going to sell the car, just buy what you need. Autolite are good cheap plugs. Buy them pre gapped and do the next owner a favor and put a little anti seize on the threads of the plug. Get a spark plug socket that has a boot in it to keep the spark plug from falling out as you go to lower the spark plug into the valley of where it will be seated. The plug does not need to be tight. After hand tightening, get your socket and turn until snug.
I would never use Autolite plugs in a Corolla. They like Denso or NGK but others can have issues. I bought a new set of Denso Iridium plugs for $12 on eBay. Just installed them today. Always check the gap though. The OEM gap is .043 and the 4 plugs were all different gaps from .030, .032, .036 and .042. I always check the gap and rarely are they correct.
 
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