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Discussion Starter #41 (Edited)
Ah, that does make sense based on the limited connections through the clock spring. So the steering wheel control module seems to be converting inbound signal properly, just sending outbound signals down the wrong wires on the head unit side? Any re-pinning possibility on that end of the adapter or is that impedance based, too? I'm just grasping at straws here, never done a head unit swap myself...

EDIT: Just hopped over to your full writeup, I'd guess it'd be very hard if not impossible to repin a 3.5mm jack LOL... Back to calling tech support I guess. Or just dealing with it as you seem content to do. Great writeup by the way!
Judging from the result, I would think the wires are crossed. The EWD states VOL is on SW1 and Hook is on SW2. Mine is giving me VOL from the HOOK buttons. When I swapped them prior I did not notice they went to normal, but I may not have reset the unit properly. Of course I will have to remove the HU now to get to the connectors. Sigh.

So yes, I am getting all the right signals (except MODE which I need to figure out), just on the wrong buttons. But the Universal aspect of this may not be internally mapping it right. I can't re-pin that as it is programming (assignment based). The unit has a re-assign function that was not working properly, so that is going to be the main thrust of the call. The 3.5mm jack is what the unit sends the final resultant command back to the HU through. On this JVC there is also a single wire which does the same thing (ground is handled separately). Apparently JVC (Kenwood) makes a device to supposedly wire into the main junction just like the AXXESS kit does, but with just the 3.5mm jack and three wires (ground, SW1 and SW2). I would be interested if that really worked. IN my case I just used the single wire and an adapter on the 3.5mm jack that broke the signal back out to two wires.

Using the handy TIS info (measuring the wire across ground with the button press):

VOL + is "approx" 1k Ohm resistance.
VOL - is "approx" 3.1k Ohm
SEEK + is 0 - 2.5 Ohms
SEEK - is "approx" 0.3 Ohms
No switch is "Approx" 100k Ohms
MODE is 0 - 2.5 Ohms (intersting as this is the same as VOL -, but on the different wire)
ON HOOK is "approx" 0.3k Ohms
OFF HOOK is "Approx" 1k Ohms

VOL and SEEK are on SW1, MODE and HOOK are on SW2. Adding in the splice hardware and disconnect hardware added resistance to the circuit, and to make the ground circuit work you add a ground wire which adds some length of 16 AWG wire, but I am not sure it added enough to fubar the values. What I can do is test the resistance of each button press with my setup and see if they are in the right ranges. But again I will need to remove the HU to get to the points. A weekend project.

And thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #42 (Edited)
This came in today:



The kit comes in a nice hinged box that has magnets for closure. Sturdy box!



You get two fobs, a sales business card and thank you kind of note.

Removing that tray you get to the goodies:





Alarm horn, interface, wire harnesses, the push button, a lock relay, PKE antennas, and arguably the most important element: the instructions. I have only glanced at them so far but seems OK. Wire diagrams with pin out, photos, illustrations. We shall see.

Since these Camry's have the immobilizers, you need the immobilizer kit. I went low tech - the kind you put a spare key in. I have a "valet" key that I have kept for all these years, no fob in it, will use that.



Now to study and research the heck out of it and prep to install it. That will be a project...
 

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Discussion Starter #43
TWO HOURS LATER (queue Sponge Bob music)

The instructions for the kit is pretty good. Seems pretty straight forward. The immobilizer bypass is a tad more dodgy (different company) but again some simple wiring. I think I can dry fit and test all this during this weekend, if we don't get pummeled by snow (which is possible). I am going to build my damn car port this Spring if it is the last thing I do.
 

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Discussion Starter #44
I fixed my steering wheel control issue on my new HU. I posted about it on the radio install thread as it relates to that. Basically, solder instead of taps.

Got my 10' runs of stranded 8 AWG wire tonight (red and black). The 100A bus bar for power and 100A bus bar for ground should come in soon. Also got my Molex pin crimper in tonight from Amazon. The plan is to run the 8 AWG from the battery to under the center console where there is all this empty space. Use one of my relays I posted about early in this thread. Connect the battery wire to the relay, a trigger wire off an ACC line (I'll use one of the power ports down there that I have already tapped), then run the relay 12VDC to the bus bar. The relay is 30A, 8 AWG gives you 50A, so all set for lower power projects. I'll have a power and ground bar, and with my 2-pin Molex connectors will custom up harnesses on the add ons I will put in (another USB power drop, dash cam run, LED lighting, stuff like that). I will be able to run all the leads to the center console, hidden, and have neat clean harness connectors all with their own battery power supply. I'll just in-line fuse each gadget. No more tapping into power sources, no more twist caps, tap-circuits, all that mess.

When the final parts come in I will of course document it as a DIY here!
 

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Discussion Starter #45
I am always mucking about with these metric bolts. I find myself running off to Lowes to use their bolt gauge to see if it is an M8 1.25 or 1.0, or whatever. That gets tiring. Right now, I plan to build a work deck in the space under the shift console to mount my bus bars, relays, etc. There are unused threaded holes I can tap into, but I would have to guess on a few sizes and pitches and go buy some bolts to make sure, all that. Toss in my son's '97 Explorer with some of the wackiest bolt sizes I can imagine SAE wise... Fahgedabout it.

I just bought this:


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06ZYD4SS8/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Spent a tad more than I wanted to ($55), but this runs from 3mm to 24mm. Nice. Is missing 17 and 18mm bolts, but I can live with that. Most of the fit ups I need are M6 - M12 range. I am going to use the hell out of this tool - a nice addition to my tool box.

I also received my bus bars today (for power and ground). Getting closer to a wire project on Salma. Soon.
 

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Another list I follow brought up this tool recently. I too think I'm going to add it to my arsenal. Very handy and eliminates the guesswork.
 

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Discussion Starter #47
Another list I follow brought up this tool recently. I too think I'm going to add it to my arsenal. Very handy and eliminates the guesswork.

Fo sho. I will cut them off the wire and store each separately. I don't need a wire to keep track of my tools :)
 

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Discussion Starter #49 (Edited)
Before I tackle the push button start/remote start project, I will complete my wiring project. The idea is to run a dedicated line from the battery to a location where I can setup my own ACC switched power options. Using an SPDT relay and bus bars (power and ground) I will create a few circuit hook up points for my starter kit, USB ports, soon to add dash cam, etc.

Today my in-line 50A fuse loops came in. The bus bars came in the other day:



This will provide all the extra stuff I need to wire this bad boy up, considering I have the 8 AWG wire I bought. Those 50A fuses are huge! There was no way to gauge this on the Amazon pics. The site states they are ATC, but they appear to be Maxi to me. I assumed the wire would be 8 AWG since that is rated at 50A, but the wire looks a bit bigger to me.



I was expecting more typical auto size you see inside the cab, not what you see in the main box in the hood compartment. Since there are two I may run two wires back to under the console, and split my devices up (SWC kit, radio interface kit, dash cam, rear cam, USB ports, future radar detector, powered mirror, interior LED runs, exterior LED runs, who knows what else). I don't think I will hit 50A, but the relays are just 30A so might as well setup two runs. Each relay will trigger off an existing ACC line that is conveniently under that console. When my bolt gauge tool comes in I will take photos and explain where I plan to put the work deck to screw all this down onto.
 

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Discussion Starter #50
Came in:



The instant it hit the table (not dropped onto it really, but a heavy end went down first) a bead busted. No real issue with that, but those beads are super cheap. I took it out to Salma, opened up the console, and saw that there is no good way to test a bolt hole in a limited space with all of them strung together; you can't turn the potential bolt end well. So for sure I will be taking it apart and just using each item separately.

This is where I plan to build a work deck and mount the bus bars and relays, running the power wires from the battery.



The yellow wires you see are a bundle I made by tapping into the power port that goes inside the cubby in the center console, and pig-tailing off three ends to connect to the SWC, the radio interface kit, etc. That bugs me as I am loading up a circuit meant for something else. The slight OCD part of me will be happy when I run "clean" power in there and give everything it's own fused connection.
 

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Discussion Starter #51
Making a slight mod to my wiring project plan. The 8 AWG wire I bought from Lowes is too stiff and damn near impossible to tie into the 50A 8 AWG fuse links. Hard to find 8 AWG that is not that damn stiff, so I am dropping down to 10 AWG, which is 30A and just fine. The relays are 30A anyway. These days I wish like hell Radio Shack was still around as my wire choices are extremely limited. I opted to buy a 25' roll of 10 AWG off Amazon, even though it is CCA (copper clad aluminum). I will be using very small voltage and amperage, not high end stereo amps and the like. It will do.

I will keep the 8 AWG 50A fuse links, drop the fuse down to 30A, and just solder in the 10 AWG. All that will be in the hood anyway, and with the shrink tube and loom the drop will be invisible.

Tonight my loom (cable sleeve) came in, along with various sized shrink tubing (and my watch repair kit, yay!). Once the new wire comes in I will set it all up. Next weekend.

I did opt to buy myself another tool I have wanted for some years. I have been keeping various plugs that go AC to DC to use as testing for stuff, and have wanted a bench top DC power supply. Well, this was on a special deal on Amazon, so I jumped on it:



Special deal if the order was placed by 24 Jan, knocking another $16 and change off the price (making it $63.75). My wife will kill me, spending more money, but you only live once. When that comes in I can bench test some of my circuits/designs. Going to make a lot of my auto projects easier. Next up I will buy a better solder station. My tool is super old and as cheap as it can be (at least it has a 15w and 30w selector). A better unit will help a bit. Doing a lot of soldering these days.
 

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Discussion Starter #52
DC power supply came in, 10 AWG wire came in, flux came in. I am set to take on the wire project (yay). Hopefully I will get to it Saturday. Pics to come.
 

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Discussion Starter #53
Came in today:



Now I can more readily use my floor jack on the pinch weld for the Camry.
 

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Discussion Starter #54
And just bought this off ebay:



Came from a Camry - auto dimming mirror with compass. Gentex, OEM provider. Going to run a few power runs under the headliner to the mirror area for stuff like this.
 

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Discussion Starter #55 (Edited)
Wire Project - Battery Run

This chronicles running dedicated wire to the battery.

25' 10 AWG wire (not all used)
25' PET cable sleeve (not all used)
Heat shrink sections
Sheers
Cable snips
10mm socket to take off glove box and air assembly
Phillips screwdriver to take off glove box


Started in on the harder part tonight. I wanted to take advantage of an existing penetration through the firewall. Looking in the engine compartment, the easiest to get to was the wire harness running behind the glove box for the blower and all that. I took out the glove box and the dash trim to get access.



The white arrow is the area where the penetration is, behind the blower. That rubber grommet has two nipples that you can cut inside the engine bay and push wire through - nice.



This is my new direction of using 10 AWG (30A) wire. It is much more user friendly, but is a bit harder to push through as it is not stiff. Had my son help grab the wire as I pushed it through.

I took out the air box so I could run the wire along the back firewall and under the air box to get to the battery. I was trying to push the second wire through the same hole when it just got too dark and cold, so continuing tomorrow.
 

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Wire Project - Phase 1

Started in on the harder part tonight. I wanted to take advantage of an existing penetration through the firewall. Looking in the engine compartment, the easiest to get to was the wire harness running behind the glove box for the blower and all that. I took out the glove box and the dash trim to get access.



The white arrow is the area where the penetration is, behind the blower. That rubber grommet has two nipples that you can cut inside the engine bay and push wire through - nice.



This is my new direction of using 10 AWG (30A) wire. It is much more user friendly, but is a bit harder to push through as it is not stiff. Had my son help grab the wire as I pushed it through.

I took out the air box so I could run the wire along the back firewall and under the air box to get to the battery. I was trying to push the second wire through the same hole when it just got too dark and cold, so continuing tomorrow.
It's actually easier to push under the rubber of the wiring harness on the left side. There is little to nothing to remove. That is what I used to wiring my fog lights.
 

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Discussion Starter #57
It's actually easier to push under the rubber of the wiring harness on the left side. There is little to nothing to remove. That is what I used to wiring my fog lights.
Oh well, it's all out now. Gives me a chance to clean some of that up, found the missing (did not even know about it) glove box damper (first I ever seen or heard of it), and will allow me to avoid running more wire around the steering wheel/brake pedal/all that. And, after all these years, I think that is the first time I have seen the TPMS reset button. Never noticed it. Odd how some things just stay hidden.
 

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Oh well, it's all out now. Gives me a chance to clean some of that up, found the missing (did not even know about it) glove box damper (first I ever seen or heard of it), and will allow me to avoid running more wire around the steering wheel/brake pedal/all that. And, after all these years, I think that is the first time I have seen the TPMS reset button. Never noticed it. Odd how some things just stay hidden.
Don't worry, the TPMS button does nothing... literally.
 

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Discussion Starter #59 (Edited)
Wiring Project - Battery Run (continued)

Was able to poke the second wire through the grommet. I wrapped the wire (which is very flexible) in some electrical tape then greased the end with car wash soap. Slipped through with no issue.



This "1/2 inch Flexo PET Expandable Braided Sleeving – BlackBlue – Alex Tech Braided Cable Sleeve" is awesome stuff. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B074LRSL3H/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1



The specs are "Operating temp(degree F.):-103 to 257|Melt temp: 446". You slide the wires in and then inchworm it up the run. Easy to put on, easy to take off. Best to slide on a small heat shrink piece on the PET end, the push down to the wire end and heat to make a nice seal and prevent future fraying. In the pic above you see that.

The cable run all sleeved up:



This gives me two dedicated 10 AWG (30A) runs off the battery for all the electronic gizmos I will be adding. More than enough, and now I get to load balance to ensure I don't tip the scale on any one SPDT relay.

Off to a family party for several hours. When I get back I will hit the interior sleeve, then start working on my deck "plate" to mount everything.
 

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Discussion Starter #60 (Edited)
Wiring Project - Battery Run complete

Had enough light today to finish off the run to the battery. I went overboard in the work, but I wanted it clean and secure, and did not want to deal with more cables snaking around the brake pedal, steering shaft, all that. With the glove box and lower dash out, as well as the entire air box system, was MUCH easier to get the run exactly where I wanted it and all secured into place.

Here are the two lines all snug in their PET sleeve.



The dash and glove box all back together. Installed the damper as well that was off. (note: the floor mat is not filthy, it is just the darker color than the carpet. I am thinking I will be putting in the darker carpet this summer)



Here is the sleeve in the console, ready for the deck build and relay, bus, all that install.



Here you can see the PET sleeve tucked up under the cowl, in the far back alongside the firewall. Zip tied it to other cable bundles for now to keep it from sagging and draping across warmer coolant lines.



I ran the sleeve under the box, zip tied under the box bracket and secured to other trans cable bundles. Comes up nice and neat behind the battery.



Next will be the in-line fuse runs install, as well as the interior connections.
 
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