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2009 Camry SE I4 MGM
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1,486 Posts
Did you ever order the R4 decoders for the 9005 DRL / high beams ?? Your lights will look even better.
Glenn
 

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Moderator
2015 4 Runner SR5
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3,878 Posts
Discussion Starter #143 (Edited)
Ran a dedicated wire for the dash cam today. I hate wires hanging around. This cam uses a USB micro B connector so I had to order a wire. 15' and has the normal USB on the other end. So I cut the USB end off, ran the wire down the driver side A pillar, under the dash, into the compartment under the HU, and wired in a 12VDC - 5VDC unit to feed the proper voltage to the cam. Put an inline fuse in and ran it into my power block I posted about prior. Nice and clean now:

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I need to clean more old tint adhesive off the back windshield so I can hook up the rear facing cam.

Because of where I work, I cannot video record in certain areas, so instead of reaching around to this side of the cam to power it off I will be installing a rocker switch in the overhead console. Those will be here Monday, along with some connector goodies:

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I've gotten pretty good (excellent grammar there) at making the Molex style connectors, so I plan to clean up my power block. The kit I ordered has from 2 - 9 pin connectors so I plan to make some cleaner wire bundles and run all the accessories into a small fuse block. It's messy in the compartment now and that bugs me. Rather than have all these 2-pin connectors form all these accessories (power rear view mirror, dash cam, harnesses for the HU, various USB ports, etc.) I plan to make a wire bundle and pin-out everything. Pleases me to think of a nice 6-pin or 9-pin connector harness that splits off to the devices. I can jump power to all the backside slots so I keep one power wire running to ACC, and do the same for the grounds. Clean.
 

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AllThingsToyotaEnthusiast
Gen 6.5 Camry SE
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392 Posts
Excellent restore/upgrade job! I bought an `11 SE V6 with black leather interior. What a transition color makes from my 07 XLE with grey interior and odd light colored faux-wood trim. My first task was to add radar detector and a Gentex mirror. I wired the mirror to only function Garage Door buttons while car is ON as I didn't want another security risk. The same power source went to my radar detector as well. It sits comfortably behind the Gentex mirror and it might be just a one-off but seems to be much more precise sitting hidden behind the mirror.

If you haven't already replaced your headlights, do yourself a favor and avoid replacements for the 07-09 models and get a Gen 6.5 kit. These are WAY better and only require a slight notch cut from your bumper to install properly. Some other guys around here have done it with great success. The 6.5 kits are easily found on Ebay and Amazon.
Here's the one I'm eventually getting: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075R6FF2G
 

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Registered
08 Toyota Camry 2AZ-FE R9K Tuned
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6,446 Posts
Excellent restore/upgrade job! I bought an `11 SE V6 with black leather interior. What a transition color makes from my 07 XLE with grey interior and odd light colored faux-wood trim. My first task was to add radar detector and a Gentex mirror. I wired the mirror to only function Garage Door buttons while car is ON as I didn't want another security risk. The same power source went to my radar detector as well. It sits comfortably behind the Gentex mirror and it might be just a one-off but seems to be much more precise sitting hidden behind the mirror.

If you haven't already replaced your headlights, do yourself a favor and avoid replacements for the 07-09 models and get a Gen 6.5 kit. These are WAY better and only require a slight notch cut from your bumper to install properly. Some other guys around here have done it with great success. The 6.5 kits are easily found on Ebay and Amazon.
Here's the one I'm eventually getting: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075R6FF2G
I personally have not been fond of the Gen 6.5 facelift. The Gen 6 is much subdued and with an RK Sport body kit it competes the look. The facelift may be better for the SE though.
 

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AllThingsToyotaEnthusiast
Gen 6.5 Camry SE
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392 Posts
I personally have not been fond of the Gen 6.5 facelift. The Gen 6 is much subdued and with an RK Sport body kit it competes the look. The facelift may be better for the SE though.
I was the same way. Hard set on the Gen 6 design, but adding the Gen 6.5 headlights to a Gen6 bumper is invisible as the un-notched section of the bumper hides the 6.5 headlight bulge. It will appear as you have a custom Gen6 headlight. It's hard to explain without pictures, but the lower line does not change. The cut is on the flat edge to allow the headlight to dip below. I was headed this direction with my 07, but wound up selling it after I bought the 11.
 

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Moderator
2015 4 Runner SR5
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3,878 Posts
Discussion Starter #147
My new tool arrived today: Autel MX808!!

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Just tinkering with it for a bit I already love it. Found several DTCs that did not trip the check engine light, so will need to investigate those (some SRS and ABS ones, as well as a few others). This thing gives a crap ton of info. Was watching the graphs of my A/F (O2) sensors, as I am fairly sure they are not running optimal. Did not see the voltage switching I think they should be at after throttle and return to idle. Going to research it more.

It showed me the current PSI reading in all four tires, plus the air temp in the tires (one DTC was in TPMS that I need to research), so I can see I want to air up one tire a bit. Reviewed the CAT sensor temps (two temps) so will research that to see what that is telling me about the status of my CAT. Looks like my MAF may be running a bit high. So much data that I now need to learn what the baseline/range values should be.

There is some awesome data I can capture while the engine is running and the tires moving. Will have to get my son to pilot while I check the values.

A few more pics:

Comes with the case and inside the case:

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Has the cable, the power adapter, and the manual (the unit is out in this pic). Nice case to keep it safe and sound.

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Of course I needed to update everything, so for the last two hours or so have been updating the firmware and all the modules. One year of updates comes with the purchase price, then it is over a $100 a year to keep updating (I think was the cost). You can run it without the updates, you just won't have the newer car info, bug fixes, things like that. The company said you can opt out of annual updates then jump back in later and just patch t all up then, so you don't have to update every year.

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You jump into the Diagnostics app and do all the trouble codes and live data fun. You can also do a ton of service stuff. This tool is really an entry into pro/shop kind of functionality. This model is in the $400 range - you can get nicely into the four digit dollar zone on these. I can change several programming features of the car with this model. Going to have some fun!!
 

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Moderator
2015 4 Runner SR5
Joined
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3,878 Posts
Discussion Starter #148
And another positive note today - got some extra folding money from work. Going to buy a new exhaust manifold and A/F sensors. 264k on the odo, plus the BAD BAD BAD oil consumption for so long = less than optimal CAT and O2 sensors. At 264,000 miles I feel just fine replacing those parts. Will place the order Friday. Can't hardly wait! At times I can tell I am running rich (even get some codes pop up telling me so) and can smell the fuel burn. My mpg will drop to 24 or so when that is happening. At best I just squeeze 28 mpg for my commute. Curious to see if a brand new exhaust manifold (hence CAT) and new A/F slash O2 sensors make much difference. Hoping I can realize a steady 29 or even 30 mpg afterwards. We shall see.
 

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Moderator
2015 4 Runner SR5
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3,878 Posts
Discussion Starter #149
Not as simple as it may seem:

Have to be careful with the "O2" sensor testing. These Toyotas have A/F sensors on the upstream (sensor 1), which is a wide band sensor. Typical O2 sensors are narrow band (the downstream, or S2 sensor is an O2 sensor on a Toyota). When you look at scan data a wide band sensor does not switch between Lean and Rich like a narrow band sensor does. You may think the graph is indicating a sensor failure, which would be accurate if you saw a flat line on a narrow band sensor. The wide band operates that way. Sheesh.

Ordering a new A/F and O2 sensor tomorrow anyway, considering the life expectancy on these is not 260,000 miles. Will see if anything notable changes in the run and mileage. Then will think about the exhaust manifold.

Excellent article on the A/F sensor here:

 

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Moderator
2015 4 Runner SR5
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3,878 Posts
Discussion Starter #150
On their way:

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Best OEM part prices I can find, typically. 89467 is the A/F sensor (upstream). I decided to get a new manifold gasket as I can't recall if I put a new one in when I swapped the engine. I am suspecting I have a leak in my exhaust line. I think I will build a simple smoke machine (old solder gun, sock, baby oil, jar, tubing, small fish tank air pump) and see where smoke comes out. Going to have to wait a bit as it is snowing like mad here.
 

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Moderator
2015 4 Runner SR5
Joined
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3,878 Posts
Discussion Starter #151
Arrived today:

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Top left: A/F sensor. Top right: O2 sensor. Bottom: new exhaust manifold gasket. I added in the 12 year old Weller Bourbon :) The sensors come with the anti-seize already applied, which is a good thing.

Have a busy work week so it will be Saturday before I can tackle this. I want to bring the car up to operating temp and capture some data from the existing sensors, then after it cools down swap in the new ones, and repeat. See if I can catch any data that is different. My last mpg calc was a tad over 28. It tends to stay in the 27/28 range on my work commute, except for when I smell it running rich. It can drop to about 24 at those times.

I'll take side-side pics of the old-new sensors and post up so all can see what they look like, as well as post up freeze frame data grabs if I can get that to work right. Depending on how I run after the new sensors are installed I will go after a new exhaust manifold. I would prefer getting a new intake and exhaust manifold, if for no other reason than the oil consumption really dirtied the original ones up. But that is about $800 or so in cost, and that $800 will go a long ways on other needed things. Over time. Over time.
 
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