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Discussion Starter #1
Hello buddies, I noticed that my 2010 Toyota Corolla AC randomly stops getting cold until I switch the AC button off and on. This usually happen when the car slows down or in idle. Whenever this happened, I could still hear the sound of compressor running but never gets cold until I switch the AC button off and on. What could be wrong guys?
 

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05 camry 07 tacoma
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Can you verify that compressor is cooling normally by feeling the lines at the firewall.
If normal than suspect blend door.
Turning a/c off/on may be resetting the door position.
 

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2006 Corolla XRS
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Have you ever had the freon refilled since owning the car?

Any odd smells like mold? If you do, check the AC discharge hose under the car. It might be clogged.
 

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If switching the system on and off gets it to work then my guess is an electrical problem. Check your relays to see if they’re working. You can swap similar ones. But since it seems to work while driving then stop when slowing down I think it’s the electronic control valve in the compressor.

The compressor is variable displacement and runs constantly, no cycling. The control valve handles refrigerant output in place of the cycling. When you’re driving the clutch is spinning fast and works more efficiently. At idle it has to work harder for similar output. The control valve should ramp up output at idle to compensate. In your case it’s not doing that. My guess would be turning it off and on resets it and it operates correctly.
 

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You can test the relay. It sounds to me that the ground side is not allowing the relay to open.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
If switching the system on and off gets it to work then my guess is an electrical problem. Check your relays to see if they’re working. You can swap similar ones. But since it seems to work while driving then stop when slowing down I think it’s the electronic control valve in the compressor.

The compressor is variable displacement and runs constantly, no cycling. The control valve handles refrigerant output in place of the cycling. When you’re driving the clutch is spinning fast and works more efficiently. At idle it has to work harder for similar output. The control valve should ramp up output at idle to compensate. In your case it’s not doing that. My guess would be turning it off and on resets it and it operates correctly.
I'll swap my AC relay with my horn relay and observe any improvement. However how do I replace the control valve? Do I have to bring out the compressor?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Unfortunately, My horn relay is different from my AC relay. I need to get to buy a new AC relay to ascertain if AC relay is the problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Hehe. What I took for AC relay is not it at all but an head lamp relay(H-LP relay). Please where is AC relay located in 2010-2013 Toyota Corolla? I was told that the compressor in this model of Toyota Corolla is a clutchless compressor controlled by a electromagnetic solenoid. Does it mean 2010-2013 Toyota Corolla has no AC relay. Please help me out Toyota gurus.
 

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Clutchless compressor is engaged all the time so the cooling is controlled by changing the displacement of the compressor using a control valve.
Don't believe it needs a a/c relay to pull in a clutch.
 

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Check your cooling fan.... that’s how I figured out I had an issue, when my ac quit at idle, and my car was running warm, I’m guessing when coolant temps get above a certain point it shuts down the compressor save the car (or try to) from overheating


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Discussion Starter #11
  • Guys, this is my observation so far. I noticed that I no longer hear the usual cycling on and off clicking sound from the compressor . This means that the compressor is running almost all the time without the cycling on/off clicking sound. So the cooling is epileptic. Cool very well at some point and bad most times. Checked the Freon, the gauge shows fully charged with freon. But the big question is 'how come I no more hear the clicking sound from the compressor since this problem began?' What makes the cycling on/off clicking sound in the compressor? Please anyone with a clue to this problem should help me out...
 

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According to an earlier post, the compressor on this car is "clutchless" so the compressor DOES NOT cycle on and off. So you can't hear what isn't happening.
As far as poor cooling, have a suspicion there's a clog in the A/C lines, given that the system is full of "freon", and the compressor is running. Take it to a pro ??
 

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Discussion Starter #13
According to an earlier post, the compressor on this car is "clutchless" so the compressor DOES NOT cycle on and off. So you can't hear what isn't happening.
As far as poor cooling, have a suspicion there's a clog in the A/C lines, given that the system is full of "freon", and the compressor is running. Take it to a pro ??
Yes agree, the compressor is a clutchless one but I guess the solenoid control valve in the compressor is the component that used to make the clicking sound while my AC was working perfectly before now. I guess my solenoid control valve has gone bad and that's why I no longer hear the clicking sound anymore during this time I'm experiencing epileptic cooling.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
That my car has a clutchless compressor does mean compressor should be working 24hrs to pump refrigerant all around the ac system. No. I believe the solenoid control valve is what cycles the compressor on and off in a clutcless compressor just like what AC relay does to the clutch type compressor. I'm open to be corrected.
 

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From what a understand it's a variable displacement compressor.
The control valve varies the flow of refrigerant in the compressor which changes the piston displacement and thus increases/decreases its cooling ability.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Hello buddies, my new observation and discoveries so far about my AC issue is as follows:

AC performs poorly when my car is in idle until I rev up the engine with gear in park or neutral. So guys, what could be causing AC not to blow cold when car is in idle until acceleration pedal is pressed to rev up the engine? Please your solution to this will be highly to appreciated...
 

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Can you put a thermometer in the a/c vent so as to get an accurate measurement of the cooling at idle and revved up?

Revving engine probably circulates refrigerant faster increasing cooling.
Not noticeable on system with correct charge.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Can you put a thermometer in the a/c vent so as to get an accurate measurement of the cooling at idle and revved up?

Revving engine probably circulates refrigerant faster increasing cooling.
Not noticeable on system with correct charge.
The low pressure line is not cold to the touch until I rev up the engine in idle.
 

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At this point recommend shop a/c service to verify correct system operation.
 

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When was the last time the system was filled up or serviced?

Since it doesn't have a clutch for the compressor, freon is low?
 
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