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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My daughters xle had bad brake judder.
Took off front rotors and pads pictured below.
Ok, the inside pads on both sides, were worn down really bad and the inside rotor surface on both sides were trashed.
So, I replaced the pads and rotors.
Judder was eliminated, so she is happy.
So was I. 馃お
BUT, any opinions on the cause of this would be appreciated.

I don鈥檛 want to have to worry about a repeat in a short time.
Something must have been done wrong by the previous installers? Or would you say I have a caliper piston issue or caliper pin issue?
I lubbed the pins. They seemed very sticky and very hard to retract.
Could that cause one sided wear?
Thanks for any insight on one sided wear.
 

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How old were those pads and rotors.
If replaced what brand are they.
Some could be driver induced.
 

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Yes stuck/sticky caliper slide pins can definitely cause one-sided pad wear. When you lubed up the pins did you check the rubber boots that they slide into for any pin holes/cracks? If not that could have been the cause in the first place for the pins to get stuck/seized up. Also its just bound for it to happen again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
How old were those pads and rotors.
If replaced what brand are they.
Some could be driver induced.
That鈥檚 what worries me
The dealer put new ones on in Oct 2019 and if true there was only 15 k miles on these.
New ones are from Rock auto Centric 129$.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Metal contact points need to be lubricated and/or pads need to be filed a bit and the pin bores cleaned and lubricated.
Ok, I lubbed all the pins and brake ears and put new hardware on the caliper brackets and cleaned the surfaces. I did not clean pin bores as thoroughly as the seats . I thought I might damage the boots. I think I sprayed a little break clean in there. But that was about all.
Pins seemed to move easily after lubing. Thanks.P
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Yes stuck/sticky caliper slide pins can definitely cause one-sided pad wear. When you lubed up the pins did you check the rubber boots that they slide into for any pin holes/cracks? If not that could have been the cause in the first place for the pins to get stuck/seized up. Also its just bound for it to happen again.
Ok, I looked over the boots and they seemed OK. After reinserting pins, they seemed to be airtight, because they expanded and contracted as I moved the pins.
They were definitely very hard to move when I removed them. I鈥檓 no expert, but I felt
Like they didn鈥檛 move freely at all. Thanks.
 

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Ok, I looked over the boots and they seemed OK. After reinserting pins, they seemed to be airtight, because they expanded and contracted as I moved the pins.
They were definitely very hard to move when I removed them. I鈥檓 no expert, but I felt
Like they didn鈥檛 move freely at all. Thanks.
The boots can be pulled out.
 

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You'll need to clean out the bore for the slider pins, and lubricate with Toyota approved silicone lubricant.
If you used Permatex with the Green label, it will rot the rubber boots (ask me how I know). Instead you want the version that says "Silicone Ceramic" with maroon packaging.
Good Luck!

edit: BTW - those rubber boots can -of course- be replaced, probably easiest at Dealer, followed by most any Auto Parts Store.
 

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Get new boots and pins from local autopart store.... raybestos, carlson, bendix, beckarnley parts or use rockauto

Use either use Toyota grease, or aftermarket brake grease for the pins and boots. Only takes a couple grams of grease to coat both pins. You'll need to brake cleaner blast and even bore brush the pin bores clean.

Cause is sloppy work, local climate, and cheap parts. Unless you specific exactly what you want done, the shop will take every shortcut possible to save you money. Other cause is the kid's driving style.

And, when front brakes have issues, better inspect the function of the rear brakes to make sure that they do something.
 
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
You'll need to clean out the bore for the slider pins, and lubricate with Toyota approved silicone lubricant.
If you used Permatex with the Green label, it will rot the rubber boots (ask me how I know). Instead you want the version that says "Silicone Ceramic" with maroon packaging.
Good Luck!

edit: BTW - those rubber boots can -of course- be replaced, probably easiest at Dealer, followed by most any Auto Parts Store.
Ok, thanks for the direction. Ok, I鈥檒l do some follow up on those pins and the bore holes.
I didn鈥檛 use prrmatex, I used Super Lube , silicone lubricant?
I will double check. This is ok to let go for a few thousand miles?
I鈥檝e got to do the rears sometime soon.
Interesting aside , the rear brake pads had almost zero wear? Is this car operating on two inside front disks?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Get new boots and pins from local autopart store.... raybestos, carlson, bendix, beckarnley parts or use rockauto

Use either use Toyota grease, or aftermarket brake grease for the pins and boots. Only takes a couple grams of grease to coat both pins. You'll need to brake cleaner blast and even bore brush the pin bores clean.

Cause is sloppy work, local climate, and cheap parts. Unless you specific exactly what you want done, the shop will take every shortcut possible to save you money. Other cause is the kid's driving style.

And, when front brakes have issues, better inspect the function of the rear brakes to make sure that they do something.
Glad you mentioned rear brakes. I noticed that the rear brake pads looked almost unworn.!
So I asked earlier if this car is operating on two inside front brake pads?Thats scary.
Ok, I was guessing that the dealer may have not looked to closely at the pins. Not sure just a guess.
Anyway something seems like it was overlooked. Of course, I need to double check what I did.
I betteer do it sooner than later
 

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80-90% of braking is done by the front brakes. That the rears were almost unworn after what...15,000 miles was it?... is not surprising.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I live in the country, gravel roads seem to really play havoc on disc brakes.
Hi, no country gravel roads just city potholes 馃槱.
Thanks to everyone for sharing your knowledge and the directions to make sure I do the right steps.
 

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I'm surprised you haven't had an accident with a brake system that appears sixty or seventy percent degraded. I would flush the pin bores out and then use all new hardware when reassembling. I disassemble, check and lube brake calipers every two years and replace brake fluid. Agree with Permatex green degrading caliper boots. It also causes the lower pin bushing to swell so removing the pin becomes a major effort. This is one system you don't want to neglect.
 

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I'm surprised you haven't had an accident with a brake system that appears sixty or seventy percent degraded. I would flush the pin bores out and then use all new hardware when reassembling. I disassemble, check and lube brake calipers every two years and replace brake fluid. Agree with Permatex green degrading caliper boots. It also causes the lower pin bushing to swell so removing the pin becomes a major effort. This is one system you don't want to neglect.
Given the craziness of "you cannot make this up", his is fine.
 

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80-90% of braking is done by the front brakes. That the rears were almost unworn after what...15,000 miles was it?... is not surprising.
On a fwd car now, its closer to 70%. And, the rear brakes are usually half sized. So, it would be surprising. On my Highlander, the overly pathetic OE pads lasted 1/2 as long in the rear than the front.

So again, bleed the rear(actually all), and verify that both calipers have free movement.... might just have to clean and regrease the pins too.

The biggest problem I see with front brakes is that they are 100% and rear brakes are 0% because of air bubbles or seized pins.
 
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