[Phil_B54]

First off I would like to say thank you to everyone on the site that has provided so much information, maybe this can help someone else...Sorry this is going to be a book. (Mods let me know if you want it split up.)

We have had our 2011 SE I4 for almost 3 weeks now. It is my wife’s car, and she loves it. For her birthday I planned on doing a full LED upgrade 1) all interior lights 2) turn signals with flasher module 3) Eagle eye smoked tails.

I researched everything for 3-4 days over lunch and felt pretty comfortable with the info I found. After trying to get everything done yesterday afternoon…and into the evening, I have the following to report and several questions.

1) The interior lighting went pretty smooth. I followed these two threads ( http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/showpost.php?p=2787261&postcount=5 & http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/showthread.php?t=300923 ) for the required bulbs and install and it went well.
Only 1 issue here, don’t know whether it is a Gen6.5 issue or SE issue or what, but our car does not have a lighted glovebox. *edit* After looking again, it does have a glovbox light, it just doesn't work.

I even took some photos and plan on doing a little DYI on the rear passenger reading lights. Rear Reading Lights DIY

2) The Flasher module swap as mentioned in this thread ( http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/showpost.php?p=2790876&postcount=25 )was straightforward and went without issue.

With success to this point, I was getting a little cocky, but was quickly put in my place with the turn signals.

The removal of the front bumper and headlights as noted in these posts (http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/showpost.php?p=1786531&postcount=38 & http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/showthread.php?t=234677 ) was fairly straightforward. The only real issue here was the lack of lower splash guard info which I figured out and neither mention this fastener( green circle) that I pulled out the hole in the fender liner.

Once I had the bumper and head light removed I found that the turn signal and running light are 2 separate bulbs as seen in this poorly focused photo.

Neither were close to fitting the http://www.v-leds.com/Exterior-LED/Turn-Signal-LED/White-LED/SWACK-TYPE-2-DUAL-COLOR-p6204097-1-2.html bulb I purchased.

Again is this a Gen6.5 issue or an SE issue or what? I am sure I can purchase the correct lights, I just hate to pull the bumper again and I have $50 in lights I can’t use. I would have thought someone would have ran into this before me.

3) After the defeat on the front LED’s I thought atleast I could finish up the tails. I attempted to remove the light without removing the bumper (http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/showthread.php?t=233698 ) without luck. Ended up pulling the bumper per this thread (http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/showthread.php?t=260042 ).

With the light removed I went to install the Eagle Eyes and found the connectors were different as shown in these poorly focused photos.

The lights on the trunk were not any better. The Eagle eye has running / brake light and the reverse light on the trunk. My car only has the reverse light in the truck, the rest is only reflector.

Again is this a Gen6.5 issue or an SE issue or what? I purchased the Eagle eyes on ebay and they said 07-10. Noting that 10 is the Gen6.5 and so this should fit my car also. I am pretty sure I am stuck with them as the ebay seller states they will ask for VIN to verify the year…and 2011 is not 07-10.


So basically, has anyone had these issues with the Gen6.5? It would not make sense, but is the 2011 different (Gen 6.75)?

I guess in the end it doesn’t matter, I just really want to get some info out there for other guys before they spend a bunch of money and time like I did.

Thanks again for your time and help.
Phil

 

[coolhandsean]

In B4 njerald LOL

 

[Pawel062]

with gen 6 the turns and parks are seperate bulbs. so u can just add white bulbs to the parks n get led bulbs for the turn signals. i believe tim updated the led master thread with info on new bulbs for 2010/2011 but u can also check silvania.

for rear tails it'll take some work but u can make em work. just prob gonna need to splice some wires.

 

[kaashifv]

with gen 6 the turns and parks are seperate bulbs. so u can just add white bulbs to the parks n get led bulbs for the turn signals. i believe tim updated the led master thread with info on new bulbs for 2010/2011 but u can also check silvania.

for rear tails it'll take some work but u can make em work. just prob gonna need to splice some wires.

Dont you mean for the gen 6.5? I have the gen 6 (07 LE ) and the turn signal bulb is the same as the parking light!! :lol:

 

[sky03]

Dont you mean for the gen 6.5? I have the gen 6 (07 LE ) and the turn signal bulb is the same as the parking light!! :lol:

Pawel062 is right... gen 6 (07-09) has 2 bulbs on each side that lights up when u turn on ur parking lights

 

[x4nd3r05]

hope you figure something that works. i have a camry se 6.5 (2011) and wanted to get those eagle eyes led tail lights too but am saving up for them

 

[Phil_B54]

On the fronts, I mostly relied on this in the LED masterlist thread - Gen 6/6.5 LED Purchase List with Links (purchased by dcemureviews) - So this not correct for the Gen 6.5 then...only the Gen 6?

It looks like instead of getting the CK TYPE 2 DUAL COLOR CHANGING HID WHITE AMBER SWITCHBACK 60 LED TURN SIGNAL BULBS 3157 3157NA 3357 3457 4157 4057, I should have gotten the 2 V-LEDS AMBER 194 13 LED LIGHT BULBS 158 168 2825 and 2pcs instead of 1pc of the 2 AMBER 7W HIGH POWER 20 LED PARKING/TURN SIGNAL BULBS 7443 7440

Basically I guess it comes down to the fact I didn't research as well as I should have.


On the back, I guess since I am stuck with them, like Pawel062 said should be able to make up a pigtail to get it to work. If so, I will put together a purchase list and instructions.

 

[bandit]

with gen 6 the turns and parks are seperate bulbs. so u can just add white bulbs to the parks n get led bulbs for the turn signals. i believe tim updated the led master thread with info on new bulbs for 2010/2011 but u can also check silvania.

for rear tails it'll take some work but u can make em work. just prob gonna need to splice some wires.

Dont you mean for the gen 6.5? I have the gen 6 (07 LE ) and the turn signal bulb is the same as the parking light!! :lol:

Pawel062 is right... gen 6 (07-09) has 2 bulbs on each side that lights up when u turn on ur parking lights

What Pawel mentioned was a bit confusing. Yes, the Gen 6 has 2 bulbs (blinker and side). The side light behind the amber reflector does nothing. I do not consider this the parking lights but as sidemarkers.

The blinker itself is dual filament. It acts as a blinker and parking lights.

As for the Gen 6.5...there are 2 separate bulbs. 1 bulb is for blinker and another bulb is for parking lights. (Netforcer has pics and info on this from his conversion thread)

To OP..no one really posted such information as to what is needed for Gen 6.5 so the Master LED list wasnt updated for Gen 6.5. I have checked Sylvania's site and they now have information for Gen 6.5 (2010). I updated the Master LED list. This is what you will need.

- Front Parking Lights** (Gen 6.5) - QTY:2 - 194/2825 wedge bulbs
- Front Turn Signal** (Gen 6.5) - QTY:2 - 7440 (must be CK type (SACK). if using regular LED, read below for more information. get the brightest or it wont be visible during the day for safety reasons; 48+ LED/High Power)

SACK is amber. You have no use for SWACK since it will not be switching between white and amber.

Hopefully, this will help you get the right LEDs. Let me know if I got these correct when you purchase new LEDs. Thanks.

 

[bandit]

First off I would like to say thank you to everyone on the site that has provided so much information, maybe this can help someone else...Sorry this is going to be a book. (Mods let me know if you want it split up.)

We have had our 2011 SE I4 for almost 3 weeks now. It is my wife’s car, and she loves it. For her birthday I planned on doing a full LED upgrade 1) all interior lights 2) turn signals with flasher module 3) Eagle eye smoked tails.

I researched everything for 3-4 days over lunch and felt pretty comfortable with the info I found. After trying to get everything done yesterday afternoon…and into the evening, I have the following to report and several questions.

1) The interior lighting went pretty smooth. I followed these two threads ( http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/showpost.php?p=2787261&postcount=5 & http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/showthread.php?t=300923) for the required bulbs and install and it went well.
Only 1 issue here, don’t know whether it is a Gen6.5 issue or SE issue or what, but our car does not have a lighted glovebox. *edit* After looking again, it does have a glovbox light, it just doesn't work.

Glove box lights come on ONLY if headlights are turned on. If headlights are not turned on, they will be off.

I even took some photos and plan on doing a little DYI on the rear passenger reading lights. Rear Reading Lights DIY

Thank you! Added/merged to Master LED list

2) The Flasher module swap as mentioned in this thread ([/SIZE][/FONT]http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/showpost.php?p=2790876&postcount=25)was straightforward and went without issue.

Glad that it helped. Do you have flashing confirmation when you lock/unlock doors?

With success to this point, I was getting a little cocky, but was quickly put in my place with the turn signals.

The removal of the front bumper and headlights as noted in these posts (http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/showpost.php?p=1786531&postcount=38 & http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/showthread.php?t=234677) was fairly straightforward. The only real issue here was the lack of lower splash guard info which I figured out and neither mention this fastener( green circle) that I pulled out the hole in the fender liner.

I dont think you need to remove the front bumper to get to the bulbs. You can pull back on the wheel well put you hands inside and reach for the bulbs. This was mentioned in the Master LED list and in other threads.

Once I had the bumper and head light removed I found that the turn signal and running light are 2 separate bulbs as seen in this poorly focused photo.

Neither were close to fitting the http://www.v-leds.com/Exterior-LED/Turn-Signal-LED/White-LED/SWACK-TYPE-2-DUAL-COLOR-p6204097-1-2.html bulb I purchased.

Again is this a Gen6.5 issue or an SE issue or what? I am sure I can purchase the correct lights, I just hate to pull the bumper again and I have $50 in lights I can’t use. I would have thought someone would have ran into this before me.

As mentioned in previous post, no one really posted information or changed LEDs on 6.5 headlights. The only one I know of is the parking lights from Netforcer when he did the conversion. These should be the correct LEDs. If you bought from V-LEDS, you can fill out a RMA form and send it back for refund/exchange. There might be a restocking fee though.

- Front Parking Lights** (Gen 6.5) - QTY:2[/COLOR - 194/2825 wedge bulbs
- Front Turn Signal** (Gen 6.5) - QTY:2 - 7440 (must be CK type (SACK). if using regular LED, read below for more information. get the brightest or it wont be visible during the day for safety reasons; 48+ LED/High Power)

3) After the defeat on the front LED’s I thought atleast I could finish up the tails. I attempted to remove the light without removing the bumper (http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/showthread.php?t=233698) without luck. Ended up pulling the bumper per this thread (http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/showthread.php?t=260042).

With the light removed I went to install the Eagle Eyes and found the connectors were different as shown in these poorly focused photos.

The lights on the trunk were not any better. The Eagle eye has running / brake light and the reverse light on the trunk. My car only has the reverse light in the truck, the rest is only reflector.

Again is this a Gen6.5 issue or an SE issue or what? I purchased the Eagle eyes on ebay and they said 07-10. Noting that 10 is the Gen6.5 and so this should fit my car also. I am pretty sure I am stuck with them as the ebay seller states they will ask for VIN to verify the year…and 2011 is not 07-10.

This was also discussed in other threads. It was stated that Gen 6 taillights will NOT work on Gen 6.5 due to different wirings. eBay sellers would add any date to the auction to get sales and end up having buyers be disappointed that it does not fit. I would contact the seller and inform them of wrong information. If not, file a complaint with Paypal. Why should you be stuck with them if you know that 2011 is not 2010? Even if it was a 2010, it still will not fit the car. You have pictures to prove it.

So basically, has anyone had these issues with the Gen6.5? It would not make sense, but is the 2011 different (Gen 6.75)?

I guess in the end it doesn’t matter, I just really want to get some info out there for other guys before they spend a bunch of money and time like I did.

Thanks again for your time and help.
Phil

There is no 6.75. Its either Gen 6 (2007-2009) or Gen 6.5 (2010-2012(?))

In conclusion, the front LEDs can be exchanged/refunded by filling out return form with VLEDS.

Taillights I would contact seller first and tell them that their information is wrong. If they wont refund, file a complaint with PayPal. You shouldnt be stuck with them if it doesnt fit and seller misled and posted the wrong information.

 

[Phil_B54]

Glove box lights come on ONLY if headlights are turned on. If headlights are not turned on, they will be off..

That is a good peice of info, I will check it out tonight.

Thank you! Added/merged to Master LED list.

I actually didn't see that someone had already done one until you merged it :headbang:

Glad that it helped. Do you have flashing confirmation when you lock/unlock doors?..

Yes and the hazzards work fine also... but I also have hyperflashing. So I switched the rears back to stock bulbs. I am hoping it was hyper flashing due to having the rears LED and the front stock? I am sure I ordered the correct flasher unit (81980-50030)

I dont think you need to remove the front bumper to get to the bulbs. You can pull back on the wheel well put you hands inside and reach for the bulbs. This was mentioned in the Master LED list and in other threads..

After further review, I noticed this and it will help me for next time. Again, I guess I just needed to research more.:headbang:

This was also discussed in other threads. It was stated that Gen 6 taillights will NOT work on Gen 6.5 due to different wirings.

Again my lack of proper research. I am thinking now that a pigtail would be a good deal. If I can get it right I am sure there are many guys that would be interested in the same thing.

In conclusion, the front LEDs can be exchanged/refunded by filling out return form with VLEDS..

That is now the plan, 15% restock is better than stuck with a light that doesnt work for me.


Again...Thank you, Thank you, Thank you.

 

[Pawel062]

sorry should of said 6.5 in that post. wasn't a good day yesturday at all... with the front bulbs if u don't feel like paying restocking im sure posting them in the for sale section will get them sold. plenty others doing the same thing.

for the rear like i said u can get it to work but it won't be plug and play. i know someone else who is going to be undertaking the same thing soon. shouldn't be too hard.

with the hyperflashing why not sell the flasher and just get resistors like i have. everything works exactly like original and u can use it with only front leds or only rear leds. the flasher when i had it, it screwed up my entire smart key system so i removed it faster than i put it in. i still have the flasher somewhere.

 

[Phil_B54]

with the front bulbs if u don't feel like paying restocking im sure posting them in the for sale section will get them sold. plenty others doing the same thing..

Thats a good idea, thanks.

with the hyperflashing why not sell the flasher and just get resistors like i have. everything works exactly like original and u can use it with only front leds or only rear leds. the flasher when i had it, it screwed up my entire smart key system so i removed it faster than i put it in. i still have the flasher somewhere.

I went the flasher route because I didn't want to break into the wiring. Same reason I would try to make a pigtail to plug into the existing wiring instead of splicing. I am just not good with wiring.

Has anyone else had the flasher not fix the hyperflashing or only work with all LEDs installed?

 

[DjInphinate]

sorry should of said 6.5 in that post. wasn't a good day yesturday at all... with the front bulbs if u don't feel like paying restocking im sure posting them in the for sale section will get them sold. plenty others doing the same thing.

for the rear like i said u can get it to work but it won't be plug and play. i know someone else who is going to be undertaking the same thing soon. shouldn't be too hard.

with the hyperflashing why not sell the flasher and just get resistors like i have. everything works exactly like original and u can use it with only front leds or only rear leds. the flasher when i had it, it screwed up my entire smart key system so i removed it faster than i put it in. i still have the flasher somewhere.

If you happen to run passed your flasher, I'll take it from ya.

 

[bandit]

Yes and the hazzards work fine also... but I also have hyperflashing. So I switched the rears back to stock bulbs. I am hoping it was hyper flashing due to having the rears LED and the front stock? I am sure I ordered the correct flasher unit (81980-50030)

My hazards actually didnt work unless car was running. I didnt have hyper flashing. However, have you tried turning the bulbs around?

sorry should of said 6.5 in that post. wasn't a good day yesturday at all... with the front bulbs if u don't feel like paying restocking im sure posting them in the for sale section will get them sold. plenty others doing the same thing.

for the rear like i said u can get it to work but it won't be plug and play. i know someone else who is going to be undertaking the same thing soon. shouldn't be too hard.

with the hyperflashing why not sell the flasher and just get resistors like i have. everything works exactly like original and u can use it with only front leds or only rear leds. the flasher when i had it, it screwed up my entire smart key system so i removed it faster than i put it in. i still have the flasher somewhere.

Thats a good idea, thanks.

Yes, you can sell in For Sale Thread but dont expect to get the same amount you paid.

I went the flasher route because I didn't want to break into the wiring. Same reason I would try to make a pigtail to plug into the existing wiring instead of splicing. I am just not good with wiring.

Has anyone else had the flasher not fix the hyperflashing or only work with all LEDs installed?

I had the flasher module but since I had problems with it (hazards didnt work unless car was running), I went for the resistor. Like yourself, I was hesitant on splicing the wires. However, it does not cut the wires in half. The splice/taps just exposes the inner copper. I'm not good with wiring but I was able to do the resistor with the help of a friend and Pawels instructions.

 

[Phil_B54]

I have not tried moving bulbs, if they needed turned around, I would think they wouldn't work...but I am up for anything. I plan on playing a little tonight.

Since I had to pull my rear LEDs out I thought I could put the 2 LEDs I do have both in the same side to try it out, but you mention the fronts need to be the SACK style. Why does Toyota wire up the front to require the SACK and the rears do not?

 

[bandit]

I have not tried moving bulbs, if they needed turned around, I would think they wouldn't work...but I am up for anything. I plan on playing a little tonight.

Since I had to pull my rear LEDs out I thought I could put the 2 LEDs I do have both in the same side to try it out, but you mention the fronts need to be the SACK style. Why does Toyota wire up the front to require the SACK and the rears do not?

I dont know what the S stands for but the A is for Amber. I also dont know what CK stands for but its more of "CK". In SWACK, W is White..the rest is the same as SACK (hope that wasnt confusing). So I dont know why they require CK bulbs for the front.

I honestly do not know your answer as to why. It could be for voltage, it could be many reasons or no reason at all.

 

[Phil_B54]

I believe I now have everything sorted out.

1) I returned the Eagle Eyes, and only got screwed out of $10 shipping. In the end, my wife didn’t really notice the difference and didn’t seem to like them anyway. I still think it would be easy enough to create a little pigtail, and I do have quite a few measurements and several high detail photos of the gen 6.5 connector if anyone needs them.

2) Got the correct bulbs all around, installed everything and…..hyperflash

Per the LED/Lighting thread i purchased the "- LED Flasher Module (CF18 - #81980-50030 - MAX 150W. Original part #81980-02030)"

When I ordered the 81980-50030 from Toyotapartszone.com I received the 81980-02030.

These photos compare the 81980-06020 that came on our car (2011 SE) with the 81980-02030 that was supposed to prevent the hyperflashing. From what I can see there is zero difference between the two (except the part number...and the chip that I cut on with the dremmel). I also noticed that it does not say “For LED” on it like I have seen in other photos.

 

[bandit]

I believe I now have everything sorted out.

1) I returned the Eagle Eyes, and only got screwed out of $10 shipping. In the end, my wife didn’t really notice the difference and didn’t seem to like them anyway. I still think it would be easy enough to create a little pigtail, and I do have quite a few measurements and several high detail photos of the gen 6.5 connector if anyone needs them.

2) Got the correct bulbs all around, installed everything and…..hyperflash

Per the LED/Lighting thread i purchased the "- LED Flasher Module (CF18 - #81980-50030 - MAX 150W. Original part #81980-02030)"

When I ordered the 81980-50030 from Toyotapartszone.com I received the 81980-02030.

These photos compare the 81980-06020 that came on our car (2011 SE) with the 81980-02030 that was supposed to prevent the hyperflashing. From what I can see there is zero difference between the two (except the part number...and the chip that I cut on with the dremmel). I also noticed that it does not say “For LED” on it like I have seen in other photos.

For the flasher module, what you just bought was a stock module. As per LED thread, you must buy CF18 which is a LED flasher module. Even though the LEDs are flashing, it requires less voltage thus the stock module thinks the bulb is out when its really not. The CF18 corrects that problem.

http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-...tion=DispPage&Page2Disp=/tail-brake-turn.html

Scroll down the LED Flasher Module, click on SEE PRICES & BUY. In SELECT FLASHER NUMBER drop down, its CF18-08

 

[Phil_B54]

The solution: Everyone says "add load resistors" I did not like the idea of adding the load resistors due to heat generated, splicing into my car's wiring and additional cost of buying the things after spending enough on the LEDs in the first place.

So I found in this thread http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/showthread.php?t=253293&highlight=flasher , hcychang found that adding a 500K ohm variable resistor will get the desired flash. I Pm’ed him and he was very helpful in answering questions and sending higher res photos. Thank you Henry

The following is a short DIY on the mod for anyone interested.

For the 500K ohm variable resistor I used Bourns pn# 3362M-1-504LF ordered from www.jameco.com They are less than $1/pc, but the minimum qty and shipping takes them to more like $1.25/pc @ 15pcs. (I have 14pcs left , PM me if you would want one)

This is a very basic diagram of where the wires will go on the flasher unit.

I started by soldering short sections of wire to the resistor. All I had on hand with 16 gauge, but I think it would be easier with smaller wire. I would also recommend taping up the wires at this point, it will be much more difficult later.

The hardest part is that the pin on the rectangular chip must be unsoldered from the circuit board. I took an o-ring pick and pulled at the pin while touching it with the soldering iron. When it comes free slightly bend it up so you can solder it to the wire. ***See notes below***

Once soldered together, you should get the cap put back on. Because of the layout of the resistor I chose, and the huge wire I had on hand I would not have room to get the plastic cap back on.***See notes below*** I utilized my soldering iron to melt a hole in the cap to allow the wires to come out. It looks like crap, but worked out great, as you can adjust the resistor with minimal fuss once installed.

Starting with the dial turned as far as it would go counter clockwise. Connect the flasher to the car, turn on the ignition and try the turn signal. At this point it should still hyperflash with LEDs installed. Slowly turn the dial clockwise until it flashes normally. This will take a couple tries, if you go too far it won’t flash at all, you will have to kill the ignition turn it back and start again.

IT WORKS!!!!!

***Notes*** It is extremely easy to break the pins off the rectangular chip. I would highly recommend closing the unit all up before installing it and adjusting. You will break off the pin in the process of wrestling it in and out of the dash if you do not.

Using a dremmel, I tried to grind some material off the chip to get something to solder to…but with no luck. So I re-did the whole thing with my “spare” flasher.

Again, I hope this helps someone else.

 

[bandit]

The solution: Everyone says "add load resistors" I did not like the idea of adding the load resistors due to heat generated, splicing into my car's wiring and additional cost of buying the things after spending enough on the LEDs in the first place.

So I found in this thread http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/showthread.php?t=253293&highlight=flasher , hcychang found that adding a 500K ohm variable resistor will get the desired flash. I Pm’ed him and he was very helpful in answering questions and sending higher res photos. Thank you Henry

The following is a short DIY on the mod for anyone interested.

For the 500K ohm variable resistor I used Bourns pn# 3362M-1-504LF ordered from www.jameco.com They are less than $1/pc, but the minimum qty and shipping takes them to more like $1.25/pc @ 15pcs. (I have 14pcs left , PM me if you would want one)

This is a very basic diagram of where the wires will go on the flasher unit.

I started by soldering short sections of wire to the resistor. All I had on hand with 16 gauge, but I think it would be easier with smaller wire. I would also recommend taping up the wires at this point, it will be much more difficult later.

The hardest part is that the pin on the rectangular chip must be unsoldered from the circuit board. I took an o-ring pick and pulled at the pin while touching it with the soldering iron. When it comes free slightly bend it up so you can solder it to the wire. ***See notes below***

Once soldered together, you should get the cap put back on. Because of the layout of the resistor I chose, and the huge wire I had on hand I would not have room to get the plastic cap back on.***See notes below*** I utilized my soldering iron to melt a hole in the cap to allow the wires to come out. It looks like crap, but worked out great, as you can adjust the resistor with minimal fuss once installed.

Starting with the dial turned as far as it would go counter clockwise. Connect the flasher to the car, turn on the ignition and try the turn signal. At this point it should still hyperflash with LEDs installed. Slowly turn the dial clockwise until it flashes normally. This will take a couple tries, if you go too far it won’t flash at all, you will have to kill the ignition turn it back and start again.

IT WORKS!!!!!

***Notes*** It is extremely easy to break the pins off the rectangular chip. I would highly recommend closing the unit all up before installing it and adjusting. You will break off the pin in the process of wrestling it in and out of the dash if you do not.

Using a dremmel, I tried to grind some material off the chip to get something to solder to…but with no luck. So I re-did the whole thing with my “spare” flasher.

Again, I hope this helps someone else.

Great tutorial. I will add this to the master led list