[Pkrface]

I apologize up front if there is an existing thread dealing with this issue that I couldn't find using the search.

Just replaced the drivers door lock actuator with a rebuilt one due to the old one becoming weak and intermittently failing to lock or unlock the drivers door. No other issues and seemed pretty straight forward due to Toyota door lock actuators seeming to be a common issue. Just replaced one in my 2007 Honda Odyssey with no issues, so no problem right? Got the old one out, new one in and punch the power lock button on the drivers door. Got a really solid "thunk" noise with an immediate 2nd thunk as it unlocks. Well the key fob is in the center cup holder (keyless ignition with proximity fob) so fully expected. Rolled the car out of the garage and walked away from the car pushing the remote lock button. Same thing, double thunk sound. Lock then immediately unlock. Walked the fob into the house then walked back out to the car, opened the drivers door, pushed the lock button on the door and immediately get the double thunk again. Lock then unlock. Push the manual lock button, same thing. I'm walking back through the swap process trying to figure out what besides an internal electrical issue with the actuator it could be. Suggestions?

 

[Pkrface]

Update...

Contacted the seller of the actuator for assistance and he indicated he had seen this issue when not getting the door handle connecting rod properly aligned and seated upon installing the new actuator. Disassembled the door and loosened the actuator to be able to wiggle things around and make sure everything was in it's proper place. Didn't find anything obvious as it all seemed to be right, but upon reassembly and testing everything was operating normally. Hope this helps someone in the future. Replacing these door actuators isn't that hard of a DIY and $50 + my time sure beats $600 per door at the dealer. Did both rears and the drivers door in less than 2 hours plus another 30 minutes to pull the driver door back down and reassemble. One trick on the rear doors is the rear window channel mount bracket is spot welded and the actuator can't get past that bracket, so I had to drill the spot weld to get it out of the way. The braacket is also bolted, so the weld is just there for original assembly.