[nathannagy]

Hello All,

Recently purchased a 2013 Camry Hybrid XLE, no Nav, no JBL system. Looking for some aftermarket speakers to get a little improvement in sound. Just looking to replace the six factory speakers and not looking to do anything crazy. No subs, no changing the head unit, just looking for simple drop in replacements for the OEM stuff. I've been on crutchfield and it looks like options are a plenty for the doors and dash, but they only had one component option for the rear deck. Does anyone have a recommendation for a 2 or 3-way drop in replacement for the rear deck?

 

[humanoid]

Those speakers are 6x9 as well, like the doors, so there should be plenty of options for you.

 

[nathannagy]

Okay, the concern during my chat with Crutchfield was the mounting depth of the speakers in that once installed most 6"x9" speakers sit too high and I wouldn't be able to reinstall the rear deck panel without touching the speakers.

 

[humanoid]

By all accounts they should fit with no problems. Do a search in our 7th Gen Camry forums, there are plenty of speaker threads there to give you some insight.

 

[nathannagy]

Thank you!

 

[ukrkoz]

What is the point of replacing speakers without replacing headunit? This is a basic no no. Upgraded speakers IMMEDIATELY require upgraded power to them.

 

[Limshady88]

Not necessarily.... I have the navigation option in my 2014.5 SE Hybrid and I swapped out all my 6 speakers and added a sealed 10" Kicker subwoofer and it's night and day. Just get speakers that doesn't require a ton of power like 100 Watt RMS and sensitivity in the 80's. My Infiniti/Kicker speakers are 91-93 sensitivity rating which works well with the factory power. Bestbuy and Crutchfield said the same thing. The subwoofer is awesome!

As for the rear deck, 5x7 is a good option and will fit with no issues with the rear deck.

 

[Riick]

What is the point of replacing speakers without replacing headunit? This is a basic no no. Upgraded speakers IMMEDIATELY require upgraded power to them.

I love religious people,
Do must belong to the sect that believes in MA (massive amplification),
I recently met some folks who believe in TWATT (20watts - Clean).

 

[ukrkoz]

No, belongs to sect that KNOWS that you will never have quality sound out of quality speaker if you do not make that driver work - and that is possible only with overlapping driver power rating with approximately 150 % amp power. Then driver is happy with amp at about 60% amp power supplied and no distortions.
Thats from zealot that did many attempts to "only" replace drivers. Every time was waste of time and money. Better drivers=better head unit with more powerful amp. Or, simply drop small sub into trunk and then door drivers serve as mid range auxiliary ones.

 

[Riick]

.......Old thread, but it's 12/31 and still waiting for ball to drop in Times Square...........
If that were true, (more power is a necessity) then why, when I upgraded the speakers on my ancient convertible, did the system sound *substantially* better?

Oh, wait, .... Could it be that the manufacturer provided enough (reasonably clean) power from the stock system? Anathema! Stone him! Stone him!

. Have a great New Year !

 

[ukrkoz]

Happy New Year to everyone too.

 

[sethr]

Start with Kicker 35 in the dash.
Let them break in a couple of weeks, then see what you want to do.

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[ukrkoz]

Look for the Nominal Impedance spec. Typically it will be 2, 4, 8 or 16 ohms. Next, look for the loudspeaker specification called Continuous Power Handling or Continuous Power Rating. It might be called IEC rating or Power capacity. If you can prevent the power amp from clipping (by using a limiter), use a power amp that supplies 2 to 4 times the speakers continuous power rating per channel. This allows 3 to 6 dB of headroom for peaks in the audio signal. Speakers are built to handle those short-term peaks. If you cant keep the power amp from clipping (say, you have no limiter and the system is overdriven or goes into feedback) the amplifier power should equal the speakers continuous power rating. That way the speaker wont be damaged if the amp clips by overdriving its input. In this case there is no headroom for peaks, so you'll have to drive the speaker at less than its full rated power if you want to avoid distortion. ( this is defying purpose of upgrading the speakers. If you upgrade OEM speakers to ones that have higher power handling WITHOUT upgrading amp, you are wasting money. Amp power should be appropriate for a given speaker specs. Sure, if you had old or cheap paper cone OEM speaker, like I saw on many Hondas, or GM, a better speaker will give a bit better sound. Yet, I had several cars when I upgraded speakers ONLY to find that they sound like crap and I had to revert back to OEM speaker that actually did sound better than a better quality aftermarket one - simply because it all was designed to work together.)
If you are mainly doing light dance music or voice, we recommend that the amplifier power be 1.6 times the Continuous Power rating per channel. If you are doing heavy metal/grunge, try 2.5 times the Continuous Power rating per channel. The amplifier power must be rated for the impedance of the loudspeaker (2, 4, 8 or 16 ohms).
Here's an example. Suppose the impedance of your speaker is 4 ohms, and its Continuous Power Handling is 100 W. If you are playing light dance music, the amplifier's 4-ohm power should be 1.6 x 100 W or 160 W continuous per channel. To handle heavy metal/grunge, the amplifier's 4-ohm power should be 2.5 x 100 W or 250 W continuous per channel.

 

[sethr]

Okay, the concern during my chat with Crutchfield was the mounting depth of the speakers in that once installed most 6"x9" speakers sit too high and I wouldn't be able to reinstall the rear deck panel without touching the speakers.

Not true. The Toyota speaker is flat but the grill has room. Don't forget the one grill was made for different installs.

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[sethr]

I put 6" and 5" round in the doors and deck. Rockford Fosgate. All speakers from Amazoo for less. Door adapters from ebay.
The rears really need at least 3db more sensitivity than doors.
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[KRIGER Filipp]

The JBL GTO938 would be a good choice 4-Ohm speakers with 94dB sensitivity plus you can adjust + - 3db if you want.

 

[sethr]

The JBL GTO938 would be a good choice 4-Ohm speakers with 94dB sensitivity plus you can adjust + - 3db if you want.

Yes. At least - 91 would have been better.
But 1-bar fade to rear pretty much does it. If I had it to do over, I would go 3-way in the rear.

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[KRIGER Filipp]

The Kicker 40CS6934 6x9 inch 3-Way Speakers also very popular with 92dB sensitivity these speakers give better bass response.The bass dips low, to 30Hz. Thats nearly as low as the human ear can pick up sound!

 

[Greasymechtech]

Plenty of power for normal listening levels for aftermarket speakers.

Best upgrade to my Toyotas were quality speakers.

Some speakers will not fit under the deck/door grille panel. Others might need some trimming down of the adapters to fit. And some are too deep if you still want to roll down the door windows.

CriticalMass, Focal, and PowerBass have drop-in replacements.

If you go with aftermarket speakers, you might need adapters from scosche, metra, tacotunes, carspeakeradapters, eBay, ...and the speaker wiring harness kit also if you don't want to cut/solder your OE harness. You should also understand the high or low pass filters, easily reused in the door+dash paralleled wiring. No need for dash speaker if door&deck are coaxials.

I would recommend silk textile fabric type tweeters for the dash. I didn't care for the piercing metal(aluminum titanium unobtanium) tweeters, which would work fine in the door/deck. But some ears might like those metal types.

If I were to do the dash again, I would use Dayton, Peerless,... 4-ohm 1-1.5" silk tweeters from Parts-express. I also don't see the need for 3,4,5+ way 6x9's. A 2-way coaxial is plenty. Obviously, many popular brand 6x9's and 6.5+'s are 3-way.

A little soundproofing goes a long way. Not saying you need to add 100lbs of sound proofing but the doors benefit from a thin covering of sound proofing. Speakers should be sealed to the adapters that should be sealed to the door(foam or butyl tape). FAST rings can be considered too.

The Harman/JBL/Infinity +1 oversized don't always fit all the OE and aftermarket adapters. You might have to Dremel the inside diameter of the adapter for fitment.

OE regular speakers are 4 ohm. JBL's are 2 ohm.

Most speakers need a good 10-20hrs of low to mid volumes to break-in. So, make an effort not to destroy brand new speakers by going to max volume. Since break-in is important, most new speaker reviews/tests are worthless.

I also wouldn't piggyback the OE filters with the aftermarket speaker filters. For example,I would solder a jumper wire to bypass aftermarket dash speaker capacitor in order to use the OE one.

Double-check what you have as OE size/rating. Seen plenty with round 6.5-6.75" speakers and others with the 6x9's. Know what you have before buying what you want.

Many if not most installs don't pay attention to quality of install. Good luck.

 

[sethr]

Good stuff. Lot of people go to ovals BC the original mount is shaped that way, but the speakers are round. I'm not fond of ovals for "reasons." LOL.

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