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That's kind of crappy VLEDS got rid of the built in resistor that came on the V3's for forever. No way in hell I would buy them over their Platinum line now, unless I wanted the switchback feature you have. All my V3's had the built in resistor, sucks they got rid of it. IMO, for that price of the V3's, they should come with the built in resistor.
I completely agree with you! I was actually going to buy the v3 white amber switch backs a few days ago and I emailed them asking if the resistor was built in and they said their new 2.5 gen needs an external resistor. That makes the install slightly less clean. But you also have to remember that many people change their flasher relay to a led compatible one. So their is no need for a resistor in the control box.
 

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I would say most people do not change the flasher. Most people run resistors, and even if a person wanted to change the flasher, all they had to do was remove the inline fuse from the fuse holder on the V3's, and the resistor was no longer active. That system catered to the majority, while still giving the minority a work around. Now they do not cater to the majority...is the result lost profit? That's TBD at this point. All I know is, is that I will not be tapping resistors into my truck, so there goes led turn signals for me :)
 

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Discussion Starter #23
That's kind of crappy VLEDS got rid of the built in resistor that came on the V3's for forever. No way in hell I would buy them over their Platinum line now, unless I wanted the switchback feature you have. All my V3's had the built in resistor, sucks they got rid of it. IMO, for that price of the V3's, they should come with the built in resistor.
I couldn't agree more GreatAvalon. I felt for $130 -- not including the 2-day rush shipping I did due to my impatience -- the least they could do was include resistors in the kit & by NOT doing that, they were nickel & dimming me.

Thus, I saved the self some few $$ & got two pairs of Amazon w/ free 2-day prime shipping for LESS than just getting their resistor alone w/ out the required adapter.

Oh well :|
 

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I couldn't agree more GreatAvalon. I felt for $130 -- not including the 2-day rush shipping I did due to my impatience -- the least they could do was include resistors in the kit & by NOT doing that, they were nickel & dimming me.

Thus, I saved the self some few $$ & got two pairs of Amazon w/ free 2-day prime shipping for LESS than just getting their resistor alone w/ out the required adapter.

Oh well :|
I agree. They also said that the heat from the built in resistor caused premature failure of the control box, so by removing the heat source, the resistor, the control box will work longer.
Absolutely, if they take away the resistors to help their product, but don't provide external resistors, you are getting less for the same price. They should drop the price $20 or whatever if they make you pay for the resistors. Or, include them in the box now. But honestly, $130 for switchbacks that require splicing is still very steep. I'll say this, they are extremely bright though.
 

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Discussion Starter #27 (Edited)
Absolutely, if they take away the resistors to help their product, but don't provide external resistors, you are getting less for the same price. They should drop the price $20 or whatever if they make you pay for the resistors. Or, include them in the box now. But honestly, $130 for switchbacks that require splicing is still very steep. I'll say this, they are extremely bright though.
We can only wish they would drop the price down to compensate for the resistor removal.
Exactly. Bring the price down to $110 @ the least or include the resistors. I will be honest, getting the wiring to be as neat as possible -- am OCD on neatness -- was challenging. I had to use zip ties to hang the resistors away from any plastic but there wasn't much room to work with.

When I connected my XenonDepot kit, it was TRUE plug & play. Same for my LED DRL/high-beam. The LED has a built-in resistor, fan & decoder.

Seems like a price reduction is the fair thing to do but I doubt they would. When I last spoke to them, they were backordered for over a month. Demand isn't a problem for these guys & I can see why. The V3 Triton destroy anything I could have gotten on Amazon or eBay.
 

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Please correct me if I'm wrong but I read that resistors get very hot and they should be kept away from wires or anything plastic? Is there any truth or danger to this?
 

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I have 2014.5 Camry Hybrid and a 2001 BMW with Zenon HID. I would stick with the LED. The Zenon can be a PIA when they go south. HID are also expensive as hell to replace parts also when they develop problems. IMHO
 

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Seems like a price reduction is the fair thing to do but I doubt they would. When I last spoke to them, they were backordered for over a month. Demand isn't a problem for these guys & I can see why. The V3 Triton destroy anything I could have gotten on Amazon or eBay.
True, they are always backordered, but that doesn't necessarily mean they sell like hot cakes. A lot of it can be due to a flawed inventory management system (which VLEDS undoubtedly has, no question about it). When you are continuously backordered for all types of bulbs, even marker LED bulbs, there is a problem bigger than too much demand. Don't get me wrong, I definitely love VLEDS and they are the only LED bulb I will run, but these have been my observations over the course of the 5 years I have been buying from them.
 

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I have 2014.5 Camry Hybrid and a 2001 BMW with Zenon HID. I would stick with the LED. The Zenon can be a PIA when they go south. HID are also expensive as hell to replace parts also when they develop problems. IMHO
When you replace with OEM BMW. PnP kits aren't expensive, and neither are the components individually. PnP HID bulb goes out, ~$40 for a set and you're good to go. I bought my new OEM (to Toyota/Lexus) Denso ballasts for $110/each. Dealer wants substantially more than that, but buying from the dealer = losing proposition. Aftermarket brands are way cheaper than what I paid for my Densos. :dunno:
 

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Discussion Starter #35 (Edited)
I have 2014.5 Camry Hybrid and a 2001 BMW with Zenon HID. I would stick with the LED. The Zenon can be a PIA when they go south. HID are also expensive as hell to replace parts also when they develop problems. IMHO
You make a good point. That's why I went w/ some quality HIDs from XenonDepot as several others b4 me have used them for yrs w/ no issues. It was tempting to pick a cheap set for $40-50 bucks of Amazon but I would hate to be driving on the highway & my headlights suddenly go out :|

My problem w/ using LEDs for low-beams is they aren't as focused as HIDs nor are they as bright either. Although they do last longer but HIDs already last very long as it is in comparison to halogens so am ok w/ that. Moreover, like GreatAvalon said, aftermarket HIDs are much cheaper than OEM ones. If I had a BMW 5 series, I would probably replace it w/ quality aftermarket HIDs rather than the overpriced German variant


Nice job man!
Appreciate it!

True, they are always backordered, but that doesn't necessarily mean they sell like hot cakes. A lot of it can be due to a flawed inventory management system (which VLEDS undoubtedly has, no question about it). When you are continuously backordered for all types of bulbs, even marker LED bulbs, there is a problem bigger than too much demand. Don't get me wrong, I definitely love VLEDS and they are the only LED bulb I will run, but these have been my observations over the course of the 5 years I have been buying from them.
Oh wow :| You have been doing business w/ them for a loooooong time. I had never heard of VLED until I got my 15' Camry.lol... But yea that's also true. Their inventory system does need some optimization/upgrade
 

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I have a few questions if you don't mind answering. I've gone through my fair share of troublshooting lighting on my previous accord and I want to avoid this.

1. How well do your 5000k HID's match your vled switchbacks? Photos don't usually do justice because of how white balance is set. If I had to go from your photos I'd think that I could get 4300k HID's instead of 5000k to make it match better.

2. I'm eager to get rid of those amber parking lights so vled's seems like the obvious choice. I'm a little confused on how you wired your headlights into the vled unit. Just a wiretap?

3. I've seen other people use the v3's without a resistor. I'm guessing those were an older model and the current version doesn't have the resistor built into them? The resistor gets hot so is there any specific place you mounted it?

4. What is part #3 in your photo exactly for? You said it wasn't included in the kit but do you have a link to the part? I'm having trouble visualizing it.

5. What was the link for the original LED's you bought? Just so I know to avoid them if I try another brand before spending the money on vled :)

Thanks!


Edit: An additional thought. Does anyone think that it will be possible to just replace the light with an LED model from a higher trim (XLE)? Most websites I've checked don't even have the 2015 model in their system.
 

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Discussion Starter #37 (Edited)
I have a few questions if you don't mind answering. I've gone through my fair share of troublshooting lighting on my previous accord and I want to avoid this.

1. How well do your 5000k HID's match your vled switchbacks? Photos don't usually do justice because of how white balance is set. If I had to go from your photos I'd think that I could get 4300k HID's instead of 5000k to make it match better.

2. I'm eager to get rid of those amber parking lights so vled's seems like the obvious choice. I'm a little confused on how you wired your headlights into the vled unit. Just a wiretap?

3. I've seen other people use the v3's without a resistor. I'm guessing those were an older model and the current version doesn't have the resistor built into them? The resistor gets hot so is there any specific place you mounted it?

4. What is part #3 in your photo exactly for? You said it wasn't included in the kit but do you have a link to the part? I'm having trouble visualizing it.

5. What was the link for the original LED's you bought? Just so I know to avoid them if I try another brand before spending the money on vled :)

Thanks!


Edit: An additional thought. Does anyone think that it will be possible to just replace the light with an LED model from a higher trim (XLE)? Most websites I've checked don't even have the 2015 model in their system.
Woooow thanks a lot of questions buddy :) Think I should start charging by the letters I type per minute....haha

Here goes nth :grin::

1) At night, the match PERFECTLY. Both are bright white. Also, from other reviews I read, the 4300K have more yellow than I prefer vs the pure white of 5K & thus would recommend sticking to that. Unless you want to get the highest output @ which 4300K is fine.

2) I tapped my V3 Tritons into my headlights via a wire tap in order to dim the brightness whenever my HIDs were on. The control box has a separate connection for you to optionally connect the dimming cable (the white one). I went to my local Walmart & got a 14 gauge wire and connected it to the white cable & tapped it into my OEM positive wire

3) Yes, the previous two gens of the V3 came w/ a built in resistor. This gen 2.5 does NOT. I initially did not mount the resistors I got from Amazon to metal but instead hung them awkwardly via zip ties. I just came back from my local Walmart & bought a power drill & some screws as I intend on reconnecting my wires again & properly mounting the resistors this time around to a metal frame near the parking/turn signal bulb in my 15' Camry SE

Note:

- I am reconnecting my wires again because I recently found out that its a bad idea to connect stripped wires solely via electric tape as the summer heat can result in the electric tape coming off & thus exposing the naked wires. So I got a set of 12-16 guage butt connectors & a crimping tool from Amazon to reconnect everything again

4) At the time when I bought my V3 Triton, VLED did NOT have any 7443 adapters in stock & so instead of waiting, they offered to give me these PIGTAIL adapters & I had to then cut off my 7443 OEM plug & directly wire them to my stock wires. You should NOT have to use this as I believe they do have 7443 adapters in stock again. I was just impatient :)

5) The original switchback I got from Amazon were these: [ame]http://www.amazon.com/JDM-ASTAR-AX-2835-Chipsets-Switchback/dp/B00KMNUL5E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1423688749&sr=8-1&keywords=7443+switchback[/ame]

On your additional thought: unless you really want too, you don't need to get OEM leds. Most of the aftermarket options are comparable if not better (as in the case of the V3 Tritons)
 

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Discussion Starter #40 (Edited)
Did you buy the 7443 bulb or the 7443 ck?
Good question.
I searched all over the internet to find out if the Camry turn signals where 7443 or 7443 ck & finally read on some random thread by a 2012 Camry owner that it's the standard 7443 bulb. I do know there is a light test you can do on youtube to test for grounds but was too lazy & cheap to buy yet another tool...lol
 
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