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2015 Camry SE drivers high beam won’t turn off.

408 Views 11 Replies 2 Participants Last post by  Gugi53

I made the mistake of changing my drivers bulb with the car on. I was tiered, not thinking.
Now, my drivers high beam won’t turn off. I’m sure I shorted a relay somewhere.

I ran a multimeter on the pins, I’m getting a hot positive wire even without the keys in the ignition and all lights turned completely off at the switch.
Passenger side works as normal, day time, switched on etc.

I’m thinking a relay for high beams as that power line stays hot. It makes sense a relay could be malfunctioning right?
The only thing I’ve found is the integration relay box in the engine bays fuse panel. I can’t find anything else regarding how the high beams function in the newer model Camrys.

All fuses look and test good in both engine bay and interior panels.

Everything else in the vehicle works as it should, I’ve checked to make sure this is an isolated situation.

Does anyone have an idea on what would cause this? It would be a big help.
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If a bad headlight relay is a reason your headlights won't turn off, the fix is to replace the relay. This is a little easier to check since there's a chance that multiple circuits may use the exact same type of relay. From your description it certainly sounds like your headlights are out of aim/alignment. Check power and ground connections for high beams that act as low beams, high resistance on either can cause that condition. The relay is the second from the left in the fuse box.
Thanks for responding.

That relay doesn’t control the high beams. I’ve taken it out and tested the high beam positive leads.

The ground is good for that connector.

The passenger side functions as it should. Which tells me there has to be a relay for the drivers high beam somewhere.

The only thing I could find in forums pointed to a junction relay box.

It appears the positive lead is routed to this box. Does this control the individual high beams or is there another area with relays to look for?
The black box bottom right of the fuse box.
Yours is in computer. Try to put back the original bulbs.
I did, same issue. Would there be a way to reset the ECU or would this require the dealership at this point? Thanks.
Yes, take it to the dealership. You need the software to access the ECU. I'm sorry. Put the LED back.
I really appreciate it. It started up no problem this morning. I’m a mobile fleet technician so I’m on the road everyday.

With that line hot, I was worried my battery would die etc

This is the first newer model vehicle I’ve bought in years. I kind of figured situations like this might happen with the way they build cars these days. Everything is computer managed.

I’ll post an update once I take it in. I searched for hours trying to find discussions regarding this.

Thanks for your help.
No problem, that's why we are here, to help where we can.
The Junction box is the issue via dealership.

Do this repair yourself. It’s easy. The box easily pulls out. Depress the tabs on both sides, pull out. Make sure you disconnect the battery first. It simply unplugs, plug the new box in. Dealership will try a charge $250 labor for a 5 min job.

I’ve worked for Ford and Nissan in the past. I know how bad the dealer is on services. When they told me this it made me sick.

Beware of using LED 9005 bulbs and decoders for the day time running function. Burnt the relay in the junction box for high beams adding the decoder.

I ran 9005 LED for a while but to fix the day time flickering issue, I tried a decoder on each high beam.
I recommend upgrading the whole headlight system or deal with the flickering issue if you want high beam LEDs.

$190 for a new box from Toyota.
They get you because they have to access the CPU. You don't have software for that. Cost you close to $24K. Toyota has to do it from the beginning of the LED. But they don't do it, it's no money in.
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