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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I hit a bad pothole a couple months back on the right side. A friend mechanic lifted it and showed me the bent rear right wheel. But no noise from the front right wheel (while running/spinning) and no bent front right wheel. But of course you cannot spin the rear wheel very fast with no drive axle in the rear (so we did not check the sound coming from the right rear wheel with the stethoscope). Well, Rear Right Wheel replaced with a replica (helped). But still a fairly loud hum at 70 mph seemingly coming from the rear right direction.

I am contemplating buying a Timken Right Rear wheel hub and bearing assembly for ~$160 rockauto TIMKEN HA590424 {#4245006110} . The Genuine Toyota part is ~$350. And doing this myself.

I live in So CA so we don't have the winter and salt on the roads here.

Any recommendations or advice?

Thanks
 

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I hit a bad pothole a couple months back on the right side. A friend mechanic lifted it and showed me the bent rear right wheel. But no noise from the front right wheel (while running/spinning) and no bent front right wheel. But of course you cannot spin the rear wheel very fast with no drive axle in the rear (so we did not check the sound coming from the right rear wheel with the stethoscope). Well, Rear Right Wheel replaced with a replica (helped). But still a fairly loud hum at 70 mph seemingly coming from the rear right direction.

I am contemplating buying a Timken Right Rear wheel hub and bearing assembly for ~$160 rockauto TIMKEN HA590424 {#4245006110} . The Genuine Toyota part is ~$350. And doing this myself.

I live in So CA so we don't have the winter and salt on the roads here.

Any recommendations or advice?

Thanks
I tried one of the cheap Chinese rear assemblies from Rock Auto and it was bad out of the box. Got them to take it back and I ordered a Timken instead. The Timken has been perfect and I’ve put 35k on it.
 

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Is there any simple way to check for a bent axle stub?

I ask because I've never known a wheel bearing to go bad from hitting a pothole, so wondering if the axle got bent.

I've used a torch to free a stuck-on inner race when the correct type of puller wasn't at hand.

Had you thought about having the alignment checked before installing the new bearing?

Beware that tapered roller bearings are sometimes listed as "timken" when they are generic-sourced, so check for branding on the bearing itself.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
TIMKEN HA590424 {#4245006110 } this on was bought from rock auto.

and by torch you mean acetylene ? or the simple propane? I don't know if our acetylene is here right now, relative borrowed it i believe.

I had the wheel replaced which was bent, and I think I did not do an alignment at pep boys ( I should of because I have a lifetime alignment for this car). I did not think about an alignment. I didn't think it would make this noise. I didn't think about an axle stub, because I thought its FWD and doesn't have a regular axle.

EDIT: correction, an alignment WAS done at pepboys when the new replica wheel was installed (I have a lifetime wheel alignment at pepboys).
 

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Just to clarify, you wouldn't normally need a torch to remove a wheel bearing from the axle, but sometimes as the disc/hub comes off the inner race is left stuck on the axle by rust. So when that happens I blast the inner race with a propane torch for 30 seconds moving around in a circle, then the race will pop off with the flick of a screwdriver blade or maybe a sharpened screwdriver in the very worst case. So I was just saying that in addition to the other stuff, it's perhaps good to have a basic torch handy.
I did once have a bearing house tell me they had my "Timken" wheel bearing size in stock, but was handed a brown paper wrapped bearing that was made in Romania. I then had to take my motorcycle for a 50-mile ride to the nearest Isuzu dealer for the right Japanese bearing. LOL I was machining a defective pair of rotors that was still under warranty because I didn't want to have to take my truck there 50 miles away and come back again to pick it up. Oh well, but the bearing wasn't cheap (and it was the one that got pulled apart as I pulled off the rotor since the inner race was already rusted onto the axle after just a year.
 

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Rear wheel bearings are held on by 4 bolts. Since they are not press fit, they usually require only a moderate hit from a dead-blow hammer to break loose once the bolts are removed. Be careful with the speed sensor harness when removing. It can be broken and is easy to forget about.The backing plate is a very tight fit and usually gets stuck due to corrosion. The backing plate is easy to bend and if you bend it the drum/parking brake assembly will be out of alignment. You can use a propane torch and light hits with a ball peen hammer to the center of the back of the old wheel bearing to break it free. The back of the bearing housing is plastic and will break. Since you’re replacing the assembly with a new one it really doesn’t matter. Just be careful not to hit the edges/corners of the old wheel bearing or it will mushroom out and you’ll have a hell of a time getting the backing plate off without damaging. The backing plate can cost more than the whole bearing assembly! I believe the bolt torque spec for the bearing bolts is ~78 ft lbs, but you should definitely double check that (I’m working from memory).
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Yes the wheel bearing hub assembly was stuck to the backing plate a bit. I sprayed the rusted area with Aero Kroil penetrating spray. let it sit a little. Then gently hammered around to loosen it. SoCal rust not so bad. The sound is pretty much gone now with both a new non-bent wheel and a new wheel assembly. (alignment was already done when the new replica wheel was installed). I do hear some tire noise from the right rear still, but I can't tell if that is normal.

The Timken wheel bearing hub assembly did have Aisin printed on the back piece where the sensor plugs into (just like the original piece did), but I could not see the bearing itself.

I put blue locktite on the 4 wheel hub assembly bolts as well as tightening them down with a 12" breaker bar.

It was a pretty bad pothole. The bent wheel had a pretty bad wobble when we looked at it spinning on the lift. I did read wheel bearings can get damaged with potholes. This has never happened to me before (either part) personally though.
 
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