2020 Camry Fuse box layout
Does anyone have a file that shows the cabin's fuse box layout. Im trying to hardwire a dash cam and I want to wire it through the fuse box. The link on I found here doesn't work.
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I looked at both the printed manual and the PDF online and there’s nothing there. I did take out the cover and I can make out some of the names but not all of them.
If you just want it on when the engine is started, use just the ACC fuse. If your camera supports parking mode then use the ACC fuse for one wire and the DOME fuse for the parking mode wire.
The layout is on the the other side of the fuse cover. If you want to know what each fuse is then go here, Master List of DIY/Tutorials, Lighting/HIDs/LEDs, Fuse...
and under MISC. you'll find the fuse list.
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I see the ACC fuse but I don't see the DOME fuse. would it be the same one under panel or no? I do plan on using parking mode on my camera. Its the reason I want to hard wire it. I did get a circuit tester to test which circuits are still live when the car is off. But I want to make sure I don't tap into a fuse for something important like the airbags.
hmm.. is it different for the 2020 model year? These are the two fuses i used for my dashcam. Its the instrument/cabin fuse panel. Also i took a picture of the fuse box.
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I'll have to double check when I try to install my camera. thank you for the pictures though! what amp fuses did you use for the fuse tap? would it be the same amperage as the ones you tapped into?
they are 15a fuses. they came with the fuse taps.
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What dash cam do you have installed?
viofo a119 v3
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Nice, I just got a Blackvue DR750-2ch LTE
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Just curious. At that price, why not just get the aftermarket rearview mirror with cameras on the front and back?
CAMERA
Like this :
never liked those rear view mirror camera's. Though i never used one before, to me they look like they won't be reliable. maybe they are good and will last a long time but ehh.. just don't care for it.
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Yea, I am looking to get one, however, not sure of the quality
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Hi Y'all! Thank you to everyone who was posting all the great information regarding the dash cam install. I recently installed the BlackVue DR900X-2CH (took about 3-4 hours) in my 2020 Toyota Camry XSE.
I used a lot of the information from this forum to formulate my process in installing the dash cam.
I wanted to share a couple of differences in my install that I think may be useful for others who want to add a dash cam in the future.
- 2A fuse for the dash cam Constant/ACC fuse taps (placed on the top port of the fuse tap)
Rationale:
I used a 2A fuse instead of the 10A which was provided by the fuse tap manufacturer as most dash cams have a max draw of 1-2A. By placing a 5A,7.5, or 10A fuse in the tap, it would never blow until there are major issues with the dash camera. Additionally, each electrical line that is connected to a fuse has a max current draw on the wiring so limiting the current draw by adding the smallest possible fuse would prevent a larger wiring failure which could blow more parts of the circuit.
- 7.5A Dome for Constant and 15A P/Outlet No.1 for ACC
Rationale:
Both fuse locations were non-essential to the vehicle in normal functioning activities like airbags, driving, and or key fob connectivity. Also, both fuse locations have relatively large capacity in comparison and have a low to no current draw most of the time.
-Determining the Hot Side or 12V Side of the Fuse
Rationale:
If the left-hand side of the fuse tap is not placed in the Hot Side or 12V side, the fuse may not break or function as efficiently as possible. This is a debatable topic with some car electronics experts (as some may deem not necessary) but I would rather be safe than sorry as it is additional work that may save my car for a potential issue. I found a great video by RetroCarGuy530 named "How To - Add a Fuse Tap in Your Vehicle" that explains the reasoning more in detail and steps to test for the hot side.
Best of luck!
I used a lot of the information from this forum to formulate my process in installing the dash cam.
I wanted to share a couple of differences in my install that I think may be useful for others who want to add a dash cam in the future.
- 2A fuse for the dash cam Constant/ACC fuse taps (placed on the top port of the fuse tap)
Rationale:
I used a 2A fuse instead of the 10A which was provided by the fuse tap manufacturer as most dash cams have a max draw of 1-2A. By placing a 5A,7.5, or 10A fuse in the tap, it would never blow until there are major issues with the dash camera. Additionally, each electrical line that is connected to a fuse has a max current draw on the wiring so limiting the current draw by adding the smallest possible fuse would prevent a larger wiring failure which could blow more parts of the circuit.
- 7.5A Dome for Constant and 15A P/Outlet No.1 for ACC
Rationale:
Both fuse locations were non-essential to the vehicle in normal functioning activities like airbags, driving, and or key fob connectivity. Also, both fuse locations have relatively large capacity in comparison and have a low to no current draw most of the time.
-Determining the Hot Side or 12V Side of the Fuse
Rationale:
If the left-hand side of the fuse tap is not placed in the Hot Side or 12V side, the fuse may not break or function as efficiently as possible. This is a debatable topic with some car electronics experts (as some may deem not necessary) but I would rather be safe than sorry as it is additional work that may save my car for a potential issue. I found a great video by RetroCarGuy530 named "How To - Add a Fuse Tap in Your Vehicle" that explains the reasoning more in detail and steps to test for the hot side.
Best of luck!
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Wouldn't it not be better to hook up the SFT Lock-ACC for the ACC wire that only gets power when the key is turned?
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What page? I don't see it, not even on the index in the back of the manual
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