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Hi Y'all! Thank you to everyone who was posting all the great information regarding the dash cam install. I recently installed the BlackVue DR900X-2CH (took about 3-4 hours) in my 2020 Toyota Camry XSE.
I used a lot of the information from this forum to formulate my process in installing the dash cam.
I wanted to share a couple of differences in my install that I think may be useful for others who want to add a dash cam in the future.
- 2A fuse for the dash cam Constant/ACC fuse taps (placed on the top port of the fuse tap)
Rationale:
I used a 2A fuse instead of the 10A which was provided by the fuse tap manufacturer as most dash cams have a max draw of 1-2A. By placing a 5A,7.5, or 10A fuse in the tap, it would never blow until there are major issues with the dash camera. Additionally, each electrical line that is connected to a fuse has a max current draw on the wiring so limiting the current draw by adding the smallest possible fuse would prevent a larger wiring failure which could blow more parts of the circuit.
- 7.5A Dome for Constant and 15A P/Outlet No.1 for ACC
Rationale:
Both fuse locations were non-essential to the vehicle in normal functioning activities like airbags, driving, and or key fob connectivity. Also, both fuse locations have relatively large capacity in comparison and have a low to no current draw most of the time.
-Determining the Hot Side or 12V Side of the Fuse
Rationale:
If the left-hand side of the fuse tap is not placed in the Hot Side or 12V side, the fuse may not break or function as efficiently as possible. This is a debatable topic with some car electronics experts (as some may deem not necessary) but I would rather be safe than sorry as it is additional work that may save my car for a potential issue. I found a great video by RetroCarGuy530 named "How To - Add a Fuse Tap in Your Vehicle" that explains the reasoning more in detail and steps to test for the hot side.
Best of luck!
I used a lot of the information from this forum to formulate my process in installing the dash cam.
I wanted to share a couple of differences in my install that I think may be useful for others who want to add a dash cam in the future.
- 2A fuse for the dash cam Constant/ACC fuse taps (placed on the top port of the fuse tap)
Rationale:
I used a 2A fuse instead of the 10A which was provided by the fuse tap manufacturer as most dash cams have a max draw of 1-2A. By placing a 5A,7.5, or 10A fuse in the tap, it would never blow until there are major issues with the dash camera. Additionally, each electrical line that is connected to a fuse has a max current draw on the wiring so limiting the current draw by adding the smallest possible fuse would prevent a larger wiring failure which could blow more parts of the circuit.
- 7.5A Dome for Constant and 15A P/Outlet No.1 for ACC
Rationale:
Both fuse locations were non-essential to the vehicle in normal functioning activities like airbags, driving, and or key fob connectivity. Also, both fuse locations have relatively large capacity in comparison and have a low to no current draw most of the time.
-Determining the Hot Side or 12V Side of the Fuse
Rationale:
If the left-hand side of the fuse tap is not placed in the Hot Side or 12V side, the fuse may not break or function as efficiently as possible. This is a debatable topic with some car electronics experts (as some may deem not necessary) but I would rather be safe than sorry as it is additional work that may save my car for a potential issue. I found a great video by RetroCarGuy530 named "How To - Add a Fuse Tap in Your Vehicle" that explains the reasoning more in detail and steps to test for the hot side.
Best of luck!
