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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So, I'm trying to remove that stubborn crank pulley bolt on my Celica's engine.

Tried putting car in 5th gear, and using breaker bar, and 6 point 19mm socket. No good.

I got encouraged by the many videos on the "Starter bump method", of wedging end of breaker bar against
a driver's (USA) frame rail, disconnecting primary lead from ignition, and using the starter to bump engine.
I tried it this morning, and all I accomplished was to break my 1/2 inch to 3/8 inch drive adapter for my wrench
(my 6 point socket is a 3/8 drive, I have a 1/2 drive socket, but it is 12 point. No way would I use that).

So, question: I should be using impact sockets (and no adapter) ? (The adapter I had was a sears non-impact type)

If the adapter broke, is this an indication that the bolt is overtightened (beyond 110 lb/ft)? and then, am I at risk of damaging starter, ring gear, or both?
 

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3/8 will never work for that, been there done that. Ideally, remove the rad and borrow/rent a Milwaukee fuel series impact and 6-point impact socket. The bolt takes a huge amount of torque to break free because of the surface area of the flange of the bolt head.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
3/8 will never work for that, been there done that. Ideally, remove the rad and borrow/rent a Milwaukee fuel series impact and 6-point impact socket. The bolt takes a huge amount of torque to break free because of the surface area of the flange of the bolt head.
Sounds like I shouldn't be using (abusing) the starter then..
I'll see about getting an impact driver. OR.. a local shop to loosen the bolt.. Last thing I want to do is screw up the starter/ring gear.
Removing the radiator is easy (car is a 5-speed, so just two hoses). I replaced it myself some 20 years ago.
 

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Sounds like I shouldn't be using (abusing) the starter then..
I'll see about getting an impact driver. OR.. a local shop to loosen the bolt.. Last thing I want to do is screw up the starter/ring gear.
Removing the radiator is easy (car is a 5-speed, so just two hoses). I replaced it myself some 20 years ago.
If it's easy to remove the radiator, then do so. It's time to buy some tools! :)

Similar items are sold at HFT, Home Depot, ETC. You might even be able to find one on CRAIGS or Offer Up.
DEFINETLY need an impact grade socket; and in extreme cases, one of these.

FWIW-For many years I resisted getting an impact, figuring I was clever enough to use the bump start, a cheater bar, etc. I met my match on a 3rd generation Accord crank bolt. This type of impact combined with the special socket was so fast and easy that I realized I wasn't as clever as I thought! (y)
 

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You’ll want a stronger impact than that one for sure. The Milwaukee one will spin off a CV axle nut effortlessly, whereas the corded impacts often struggle to loosen regular lug nuts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
You’ll want a stronger impact than that one for sure. The Milwaukee one will spin off a CV axle nut effortlessly, whereas the corded impacts often struggle to loosen regular lug nuts.
So, I'm trying to remove that stubborn crank pulley bolt on my Celica's engine.

Tried putting car in 5th gear, and using breaker bar, and 6 point 19mm socket. No good.

I got encouraged by the many videos on the "Starter bump method", of wedging end of breaker bar against
a driver's (USA) frame rail, disconnecting primary lead from ignition, and using the starter to bump engine.
I tried it this morning, and all I accomplished was to break my 1/2 inch to 3/8 inch drive adapter for my wrench
(my 6 point socket is a 3/8 drive, I have a 1/2 drive socket, but it is 12 point. No way would I use that).

So, question: I should be using impact sockets (and no adapter) ? (The adapter I had was a sears non-impact type)

If the adapter broke, is this an indication that the bolt is overtightened (beyond 110 lb/ft)? and then, am I at risk of damaging starter, ring gear, or both?
Getting back to my original plan, IS there any danger of damaging the starter with the "bump start method" that seems to be popular? (Assuming that I use a 6 pt 1/2 inch drive impact socket and my 14in breaker bar)

The local shop near me is closed, due to the owner's medical condition. Any other shop would be farther away, and I'd have to reinstall the fan, and let them remove it (might as well have them do entire repair then :( ).
I use the Lisle socket, attached to my 3/4” 1200 ft lbs Chicago Pneumatic impact wrench. Has worked for me every time.
Wish I had a compressor, though.
 

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Whenever I did this job I locked a big vicegrip on the flywheel, then used a torquewrench to undo the crank bolt. When I tried that on an axle nut there was no joy with my hand tools, so I went to a local muffler shop and gave the guy a 6 pack to break the nut free. He didn't want the beer, just the joy of solving a problem was enough for him.The airtool made short work of it. Milwaukee cordless...too late for Christmas, but I have a birthday coming. I have a little Craftsman cordless impact wrench that is not up to a task like that, but is a good electric wrench for small jobs. Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Whenever I did this job I locked a big vicegrip on the flywheel, then used a torquewrench to undo the crank bolt. When I tried that on an axle nut there was no joy with my hand tools, so I went to a local muffler shop and gave the guy a 6 pack to break the nut free. He didn't want the beer, just the joy of solving a problem was enough for him.The airtool made short work of it. Milwaukee cordless...too late for Christmas, but I have a birthday coming. I have a little Craftsman cordless impact wrench that is not up to a task like that, but is a good electric wrench for small jobs. Good luck.
Doesn't putting the tranny in 5th gear, chocking wheels, locking brakes do (almost) the same thing as locking up the flywheel? Or is there an inevitable slippage and play: clutch against flywheel, , three u joints along driveshaft, ring and pinion gears in differential, etc.?
 
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