[GreasyJack]

Hello there,

I have an '89 4x4 Pickup with the 22RE engine and a few months back I was setting the timing and noticed an odd little problem. I hooked up my timing light and then installed the jumper in the computer connector and nothing happened-- from what I understand the timing is supposed to retard. I went ahead and set the timing to the spec on the sticker, but the thing had very little power, so I went ahead and did the timing in the old "advanced enough to run right, retarded enough not to knock" method and it's been working out just fine for me.

But I'm curious why the timing doesn't react like its supposed to? Is this an indication of some sort of problem? Any other thoughts?

Thanks!

 

[shaeff]

It's likely a problem with the TPS. (throttle position sensor). Probably a dead IDL contact.

 

[GreasyJack]

Wow-- quick response! I'll give the TPS a checkover. Thanks!

 

[qsd-dan]

http://4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/TPS/index.shtml

 

[GreasyJack]

Okay, so I went out yesterday and checked the TPS over. The VTA-E2 test seemed within range (about 900 ohms), but the IDL-E2 reading is always infinite, as is the VTA-E2 WOT reading. I double checked these on an auto-ranging multi-meter and a higher-quality one-- the readings agree.

So seeing as you apparently have to take the thermostat housing off to adjust the darn thing (I believe I will be replacing the philips heads with allens) and I'm visiting my friendly local Toyota truck farmer on sunday, do you guys think this'll adjust out or should I just go ahead and pick up a new (to me) TPS?

 

[qsd-dan]

Since the TPS is almost 20 years old, it might be wise to just pick up a new one. After constantly adjusting my TPS multiple times, I found out the that srpings weakened which constantly changed the position of the potentiometer. I got fed up with it and replaced it 3 years ago. It has stayed in spec ever since.

 

[sportlogger]

Greetings toyota gurus. New here but have gotten a ton of useful info in the past - thanks for that. I just rebuilt a '89 22re and have a similar issue to the one GreasyJack had. I jump the pins and nothing happens, no change in timing at idle and no flashing of the "check engine" light. I am under the impression that the "check engine" light should be flashing, in which case I would look at the TPS. Is that correct? Truck runs fine otherwise.

 

[Jayota]

The CEL light will flash with the key in the "run" position, and the engine off.

With the engine running it will idle down. If it doesnt there is something wrong in the TPS circut. Either the TPS or the wiring. I had a wire go bad!

 

[GreasyJack]

Greetings toyota gurus. New here but have gotten a ton of useful info in the past - thanks for that. I just rebuilt a '89 22re and have a similar issue to the one GreasyJack had. I jump the pins and nothing happens, no change in timing at idle and no flashing of the "check engine" light. I am under the impression that the "check engine" light should be flashing, in which case I would look at the TPS. Is that correct? Truck runs fine otherwise.

Hey, Missoula? Your truck doesn't say "Blue Force" on the side of it by any chance?

Assuming you're not the guy who bought my truck, it sounds like the problem is different because when I jumped the terminals the check engine light did come on like it was supposed to, the timing just didn't adjust. Unless the check engine light is burnt out-- it should come on when you turn the key to run IIRC.

 

[sportlogger]

Hey, Missoula? Your truck doesn't say "Blue Force" on the side of it by any chance?

Not me, mine's white and doesn't say "blue force" on the side

Just got back from driving the thing to home and back (1500mi) on the new motor and it runs good. Plenty of power and 19-20mpg @70. Doesn't sound good - I think its valve noise but really really hoping its not rod knock. I never did the "plastigage" thing recommended in the haynes manual - just trusted the shop to grind the crank 10 under and the bearings to be 10 over exactly.

Still haven't been able to properly set the timing. I tried jumping the ecu terminals again, and saw no check engine light with the key on "run" with the engine stopped, although the CEL does come on first time the key is turned. Idle and timing also don't change when the ecu is jumped, so I'm thinking it has to be the wiring (or the ecu???)? I unplugged the ECU and put dielectric grease on the contacts (which all looked clean/fine) and no change. Jayota, where was your wiring fault and how did you find it? Does anybody know where the where the wires from the test plug come into the plugs at the ECU, or where I could find a wiring diagram for that?

 

[Jayota]

Try googling for the 93 toyota FSM. There are websites that you can pay to download all the fsm material aswell.

My fault is somewhere between the TPS and ECM. I traced it by testing the resistance in my wiring. I came to the VCc wire, it had a ton of resistance. So I jumped it and everything worked perfect.

I would look into a fault in the wiring to the diagnostics box wiring. Which terminals did you jump?

 

[sportlogger]

OK, I finally got the e1/te1 jumper to work, but the timing still doesn't change when I do this, and I got code 1-3 from the ecu. Checked the coil and distributor as recommended for code 1-3 by the FSM I finally found (I'm going off the '88), and the resistances I measured were close enough to those in the manual. I reset the ECU and didn't get code 1-3 again after a short test drive. I also checked the TPS with my multimeter since that can cause timing to be weird,. It appears to be shot, although it was 20 degrees out when I tested it. I'll try again before I replace it. Could a shot TPS give the 1-3 code?