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Discussion Starter #1
Okay, so I've been reading through all the threads on the 22REs and the various problems they can have, and now I have my own..

I'll start with history. I got the truck (89 p/u, 2wd) a few years ago, 135k km, ran well for the longest time. Recently, around 185k km, the truck started overheating like crazy with a crack in the rad. I'd kept up fairly regular maintenance on the engine, oil changes, valve ajustment, all that, but I kinda neglected the rad and the small crack that I fixed with JB weld a year ago sprung into a 2" long by 1/4" wide crack. Got the rad fixed, then the next day, driving down the highway, I blew the head gasket. I tore the engine apart, replaced the gasket, and put everything back together according to the Haynes manual (even did the fuel filter while I was in there since it's a lot more accessible with no intake manifold in place). It ran great for a few weeks, but now, I'm having more problems. It stalled in rush hour traffic today, and it's idling rough. I'm also getting a great deal of grey/blue (not positive on the colour yet) smoke coming from the exhaust when I step on the gas, but only then.

Any advice? I haven't done a thorough check on it yet (nighttime and I have no light right now), but I'm wondering what it could be. I'm going to check the spark plugs for gunk in the morning, check the oil for water, water for oil, and check my PCV and EGR valves. I'm also wondering if it could be the valves or guides, but when I redid the head gasket I had it pressure tested and checked, and they said the valves were fine.

Help? Maybe some other stuff I should check? Or should I just try and turn it over ASAP? Thanks..
 

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possable could be a warped head. kinda having thesame troubles in a way with the smoke and mie if frm valce seals.posable check into that.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I'm pretty sure it's not a warped head, as I had it checked when I redid the gasket last. I also followed the unbolting and bolting pattern religiously to ensure that no damage was done. I checked the oil, and the coolant, and didn't find any traces of either in eachother. My EGR valve is still good, no problems there, although I did find that the wiring harness running to the plenum wasn't connected. I reconnected it and I ran it at idle for a while (where I was having problems), and didn't see a reoccurance YET. We'll see if that solves the problem. As for the smoke when I accelerate, I checked all the spark plugs for oil deposits, and couldn't find any, so I'm wondering if I'm just getting incomplete combustion in the chamber. I'm away from home now and can't really run the truck up for another few days so I'll just have to wait and see if the wiring harness was the culprit or not.
 

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When you tore the engine apart, did you rebuild the bottom end?
Also, did you get the pcv installed correctly? If it's not working right or the baffle is missing, you can suck oil out of the cam galley into the engine. You kinda need to determine if the smoke is fuel or oil.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Again, I'm not near my truck right now to check this, but one thought: does the pressure on the PCV valve increase with increased RPMs? Because if so, that could explain the smoke when I throttle up. Is there any other way to confirm what is being burned other than checking the colour of the smoke from the exhaust?
 

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If the rings are bad, then yes, there would be more pressure under load than not. It's more throttle related than rpms, really.
Also, you should do a compression test. It's possible to have a head gasket leak only from the cylinder to an oil passage.
You'll have to check the plugs again, looking for either oil or fine black soot.
 

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Hopefully that's all there is to it. I didn't fare so well myself. I have a '94 Toyota 4x4 22re which busted a fan belt at 177k miles as I was driving home in the wee hours one morning back in November creating a horrendous domino effect which encompased among other things a complete engine rebuild (which became the perfect opporttunity for numerous performance upgrades ~*evil grin*~ lol) I do know these motors are notorious for head gaskets when they get too toasty & my brother who happens to be an excellent mechanic says each time you do a head gasket you need to have the head machined. I know it was tested but it doesn't take much (down to .001") for oil to get past something & into the combustion chamber. Also if the valves are loud I would recommend an adjustment even if they pressure tested okay. That's another place oil can sneak in. Also if you still have a burn problem & it is most noticeable before the engine is warm or at acceleration I would suggest a compression test (should be I think between 140-170 psi per cylinder I believe & compression should be consistant across the board) it could be rings & if you have near 200k miles on that motor & it hasn't had a complete refresh it may be due. I did however find an interesting bit of info in regards to this & not sure if it works but it seems worthy of following up on:
http://www.rbmilne.com/howto/HT068.htm

I was looking into this when I thought I was having a ring problem which just turned out to be rambunctious valves.

I hope this helps.
 
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