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2015 4 Runner SR5
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
2AZ-FE Engine Swap Adventure

OK sports fans - first I did the all too fun u250e tranny swap: https://www.toyotanation.com/forum/104-camry-5th-6th-gen-2002-2006-2007-2011-2nd-gen-solara-2004-2008/1104681-u250e-transmission-install-2az-fe-camry-pics-break-yourself-adventure.html. I gifted Salma to my daughter about two years ago. Oil consumption problem was in effect, and she did not keep her eye on it. Engine is now seized, so once again she sits in my driveway, waiting for some serious TLC. (I have a post on here about naming the Camry after Salma Hayek, because why not).

I will be buying a rebuilt engine and swapping it out. You may want to get your popcorn handy, gonna be a hell of a ride. Welcome to the show.

UPDATE:::::::

This is not a DIY on how to do this job properly. Since this engine is seized, and I have ran into various issues in the adventure, I am taking a destructive approach, which is destroying (further) the existing engine. If you needed to swap the core, this approach would axe that as the bad engine is getting fubar-ed big time.

To help people interested in doing this kind of thing, I will keep updating this first post to include the parts needed to do the job.

Consumables

Asides from the obvious lubes, rags, and such, I will list here the things you really need to replace on the tear down and rebuild (gaskets, etc.). I will include the OEM part numbers.

Valve cover gasket - 112130P010
PCV valve - 1220428030 (might as well change it due to the crap in the system)
Exhaust manifold gasket - 171730P020
Fuel injector ring (4 of them) - 9030107037
Intake manifold gasket - 171770H020
Throttle body gasket - 222710D051


New tools/fun stuff bought due to this project

30 Gallon, 175 PSI air compressor (5.3 CFM @ 90 PSI)
1 ton engine lift - RETURNED. The HF 1 ton does not have a long enough boom to pick and place the engine
1/2" air ratchet
750 lb. engine stand (already have a 1/2 ton - will place the old engine on this for part removal)
60 degree offset metric box ends (12 point)


Tools

Buy a lot. Then buy some more.

Shallow and deep socket (metric) - especially 10, 12, 14, 17, 19, 22, 24mm.
O2 sensor socket, or adapter to do the same
Extensions for socket wrench
Ratcheting box end wrenches (10, 12, 14, 17mm for sure)
60 degree offset boxend wrenches (10, 12 and 14mm for sure)
Needle nose pliers
Floor jack, jack stands
18/24" breaker bar
Small flat screw driver or similar to help pry stuck hoses
Channel locks
Radiator hose clamp pliers
Drain pan for coolant
Drain pan for oil
Blue threadlocker (small)
Red threadlocker (small)


Misc for project

(2) M12 - 1.25 x 80 bolts - to connect the engine stand to the engine body
(2) M10 - 1.25 x 75 bolts - to connect the engine stand to the engine body
(4) - (8) washers for the above bolts to help stand the bolts off some to fit properly
Chain or whatever you prefer to use for hoisting. I used 5 feet of chain rated at 1,950 lbs
Penetrating fluid
Various cleaning fluids (de-greaser, throttle body, MAF, brake)
Zip lock type bags to put in bolts and such to keep things organized - also handy to cover exhaust openings and such

Summary for those looking to swap their 2AZ-FE
I'll summarize critical elements here to skip out the various rabbit holes the thread takes.

Lift

Avoid the Harbor Freight 1 ton lift. Seems like a fine enough lift, but it will not reach the engine to pick and place it, without removing the bumper. Even then it looks like it may be about 2 or so inches too short to do a nice vertical lift.

Seized engines

If you are swapping your engine due to it being seized, you may have (most likely will have) issues removing the torque converter from the drive plate, as you will not be able to turn the engine. Make this a first priority to resolve.

If you just can't turn the engine then you have a few choices: remove the trans with the engine and decouple on the floor (meaning you remove the torque converter from the trans, still attached to the drive plate), elevate the engine up and decouple with the trans still in the bay, or remove the upper oil pan to try to free up whatever is blocking the movement (rod or whatever). I am going the latter route as I do not want to pull the TC out of the trans and then try to unbolt it from the drive plate with the engine hanging or on the floor.

In my case, something caused piston 4 to make contact, at the connecting rod cap, with the upper oil pan. I believe this piston was the one that dropped its bearing shell halves into the pan. This collision caused the piston to deform a bit and then hit the side wall (the connecting rod cap bolt) of the upper oil pan, which blocked the crank from being able to turn. I did not have a welded piston, or a thrown rod, or a bent valve keeping the piston from traveling all the way up. Piston 4 would not clear the side of the engine wall. Due to an investigation of my valves (which resulted in an exhaust valve on piston 1 and an intake valve on piston 4 to drop into the piston bore) also keeping the pistons from traveling all the way up, I had to remove the upper oil pan and the head. I then had to remove the connecting rod caps and then push the pistons up out of the head to clear the crank. Then I could rotate and remove the drive plate from the torque converter.

Systems Impacted

You will need to drain your coolant, engine oil, and trans fluid. For the trans fluid, capture it separately and record how much came out. The pan holds a set amount, but when you pull your cv axles capture anything extra that comes out there and make sure to put back in the same amount. You'll need to pull the passenger axle, and if you need to lower or raise the trans assembly should consider pulling the driver side as well. This is an excellent time to replace the oil seals there if needed. Oil Seal Type T is what Toyota calls them.

The power steering pump is a bastard to free up. You need to lower the engine downward to get access to the two bolts to free the pump from the rear of the engine (going through the pulley). Alternately you can disconnect the lines from the pump and pull the pump with the engine. If so, then capture that fluid and replace when back together.

You will have to purge the AC system, as you will need to remove the lines from the compressor. There are EPA rules about this, so consider that. Also means when back together you need to work the AC system to get it back operational (put in new oil to replace what was lost in the purge as well as the gas). To DIY it you need a vacuum and a manifold set.
 

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2015 4 Runner SR5
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Discussion Starter #2
Day 1: 6/6/18

Salma was towed up from Albuquerque and dropped into my driveway around 5:00 today. I spent the day doing some serious garage cleaning to make room for this adventure. The car is outside, but inside I have tables setup to hold all the tools and parts. I have one engine stand, but I think I will buy another from Harbor Freight (where I bought the first one). Put the rebuilt on one, the old on the other when I get it out. Make it easier to move parts form old to new.

Fun fact - her old tranny is still squatting on my garage floor. The guy that towed works with my wife, and he has a salvage company, so I will be finally transporting the old tranny to his place tomorrow. Get it out of my garage finally. Fitting that the last remnant of the old serious project is still there to see me kick off the new serious project. Bookends.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
do you feel excited about this project?
Yep! But, at the same time my wallet is going to hurt badly, and I will live in constant fear that my daughter will destroy my Tacoma or it will get vandalized or possibly stolen. Albuquerque is a cesspool of auto crime. Salma was broken into three times down there. And one night some drunk in a parking lot hit a car parked next to her and pushed into her side, causing some minor body damage. Abq is no good. So I am hoping to get it done as fast as I can to get my Taco back unharmed. I love my Taco.
 

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I got a wrench for you if you feel like taking a break from the islands of fire! :)

lol true. I wouldn't mind watching on how people swap engines! Too bad I work most of the time :(
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Day 2
6/7/18

So nothing done on the Camry today.

But, I had to get some things in order for my daughter to take my Taco (noooooooooo). Brake pads were down to about, oh, the thickness of a sheet of card stock on the outside of the rotor, both wheels (front). A bit thicker on the inside. So I had to replace those real quick today as she picks it up tomorrow. First pair I put on had a catastrophic failure in the test drive. The quietening pad they put on it (not Toyota OEM, no time to order that) burst when the piston compressed and wrapped the thing around the rotor, smearing glue everywhere on the outside rotor face. Yay. So, new pair (different kind), brake clean with tooth brush, and replace. So a double brake job. And of course some dumb shit cross threaded some studs, so I had serious stud decay. I replaced one stud but the day was fading rapidly and I had no time to monkey around with replacing three studs. Forced two lugs back on, will deal with it another day. Test drive was perfect, good grabbing power with the new pads.

And I knew my 4Runner needed new pads. And of course we hit a long road trip in the morning, up and down some mountains, so I had to replace the front pads at least. My gawd are the tolerances tight on the 4Runner. You can only compress JUST enough to tap in the new pads with the backing plate. Rough. I was in the dark with a light getting the driver side done. 9:30PM washing the crud off my hands. But at least the front end has new pads.

And I got the old tranny to a recycle yard. I headed to work at 7:00, came home at 1:00, and worked non-stop from 1-9:30 on the Taco, the 4Runner, a dump run, and a tranny drop off.

Now I am hoisting a Colonel Taylor Small Batch - Barreled in Bond, 100 proof bourbon. Neck sun burnt (again). 6:00AM wake up to hit the road at 7:00 for a six hour haul.

Back to the Camry Sunday evening.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Day 3
6/10/18

I managed to get her turned around and the front end off the ground. Wheels off, heat shield out, battery out, and starting to get the air box out. I had my daughter try adding oil since it was dry, so I had to drain that out last night. Not sure I will get to more tonight as I have other things to get done, but moving slowly.





 

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Discussion Starter #10
Bought the engine yesterday. $1,800, shipping included. No core swap needed. Rebuilt. They are rebuilding one this week and will ship by end of week, I should get it the end of next week. Here is what they state they do:

complete engine disassembly
(pistons, rings, bearings, timing chains, plugs and other parts are discarded)
thermal and or chemical cleaning
(engine block, cylinder heads, cranks, cams)
engine block crack inspection
(Visual and/or Magnaflux)
crankshaft reconditioning
(Grinding and Micro Polishing)
boring and honing of cylinders
connecting rods are inspected and replaced with new or rebuilt ones as required
block resurfacing as required
assembly to precision OEM Specs
in-house remanufacturing of cylinder heads
new or remanufactured rocker arm assembly

Parts Replaced:

new main and connecting rod bearings
new pistons and wrist pins
new piston rings
new cam bearings
new timing components
new freeze plugs
new or rebuilt oil pump
gaskets – full set
 

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$1,800... fun :grin: I wonder do these rebuilders know of the oil burning issue on the 2AZ's to address it during rebuilds? Either way you should get another 100K out of it before it blows up again lol
My assumption would be that whoever they get the parts from has the most up-to-date part number for that part. Knowing the TSB or the reason of a problem would probably be before that though...
 

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Discussion Starter #13
My assumption would be that whoever they get the parts from has the most up-to-date part number for that part. Knowing the TSB or the reason of a problem would probably be before that though...
I asked their guy point blank, and he stated they rebuild with the latest parts available - meaning they replace the bad with good. I hope!
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
I am working some long hours at the office, and have some other things cooking taking my time as well, so it's going a bit slow, at least to start. I should have a clear deck in a week or so from other interests, and once the engine comes in I will be taking half-days to hit it longer. So: more frantic pace to come in a few weeks.

So far I additionally drained the coolant and removed the airbox assembly and related. I'll start on other accessories in a few days, and grab some more pics.

Any thoughts about leaving the tranny in place, just propped?
 

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I see a older rhino ramp. I still have mines. Worn a bit..some cracks at places that doesn't seem to affect integrity but works good!
 

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Discussion Starter #16
The engine shipped yesterday! ETA - mid week. I have a lot to do to get ready!
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
The sun fries me, and I do not yet have my car port built. So I spent most of today engineering a tarp setup. The cost of a big tent would go a big way towards my car port, so did not want to toss money at that. Had to rig up a pole for the fourth corner and engineer the hell out of the tie points due to the fierce wind we get. Spent a few hours: finding the studs on my garage then drilling, placing the hooks around, etc. But now I can have some shade, until the wind teats it apart. Which happened on one corner 5 minutes after it was up. Had to spend another hour tape re-enforcing all the grommets.



Where the tear down is at as of this moment:



I was curious what the top and plugs would look like, so I took off the valve cover and removed the plugs. The coils had oil on them, so that is not good I think. Plug electrodes were serious white powder. My iPhone can not get close enough (macro) to get a good shot, but loads of white flaking burnt material on all four.



Valve cover, inside. I think I will get a new one, just to avoid the tarnish and possible crap behind the baffle:



Close-up of the timing chain:



And the top of the engine in general:




UPDATE: $285 for a new valve cover....forget that. Time to KANO Flowaway clean that sucker.
 

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Looks like a lot of ash deposit on the spark plug!

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0ahUKEwijqeSnruvbAhUEvlkKHf0UCJcQFggpMAA&url=https://www.boschautoparts.com/documents/101512/0/0/ec0f482d-e566-490d-9132-1dadd0d5def6&usg=AOvVaw2NV3zbepbEjjDapBEPupbb

"Formation of ash

Heavy ash deposits on the insulator nose resulting from oil and fuel additives, in the scavening area and on the ground electrode. The structure of the ash is loose to cinder-like.

Cause: Alloying constituents, particularly from engine oil, can deposit this ash in the combustion chamber and on the spark-plug face.

Effects: Can lead to auto-ignition with loss of power and possible engine damage.

Remedy: Repair the engine. Fit new spark plugs. Possibly change engine-oil type."
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Looks like a lot of ash deposit on the spark plug!

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0ahUKEwijqeSnruvbAhUEvlkKHf0UCJcQFggpMAA&url=https://www.boschautoparts.com/documents/101512/0/0/ec0f482d-e566-490d-9132-1dadd0d5def6&usg=AOvVaw2NV3zbepbEjjDapBEPupbb

"Formation of ash

Heavy ash deposits on the insulator nose resulting from oil and fuel additives, in the scavening area and on the ground electrode. The structure of the ash is loose to cinder-like.

Cause: Alloying constituents, particularly from engine oil, can deposit this ash in the combustion chamber and on the spark-plug face.

Effects: Can lead to auto-ignition with loss of power and possible engine damage.

Remedy: Repair the engine. Fit new spark plugs. Possibly change engine-oil type."

This engine was guzzling oil. I imagine the cat is toast as well, but I am trying to figure how to afford that on top of the engine and all the piece parts. Yay.
 

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Geezes that engine is CLEAN though.

Just to ask this question, for replacing the engine in the Gen6, does it require a drop of the subframe? Or from to drop down?
 
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