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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I have started a turbo kit installation for my 2ZR-Swapped Yaris. I am using the same kit from turbokits.com that SuperchargerMR2 helped in getting developed by working with turbokits.com It's the kit he bought and installed on his awesome Corolla S. He got some upgrades, whereas I went with the base kit.

Last October I bought a low mileage Corolla engine from Ohio and swapped it into my Yaris using a 2008 Scion xD ECU, a 2011 engine harness, a new scion xD passs side motor mount and a few ancillaries. The harness required some modifications, such as the addition of a harness leg for the transmission speed sensors.

This install will require some modifications to the intercooler and charge piping as the Yaris is obviously dimensionally smaller. It will also require a complete custom installation of the wiring as there is no available boomslang harness, so I'll be cutting into my factory harness. I have received my kit and just completed the un-boxing yesterday. The quality is exceptional and I was initially inspired to do this project after reading Jim's posts.

Here are a few pics of my car and a few shots of some of the parts from the kit. I will be doing a more thorough thread at yarisworld as that's my "home" when it comes to all things Yaris. I will however post progress shots and explanations here.

Last summer I modded a 2000 Honda Civic front lip, installed a rear liftgate spoiler and did a full car repaint, including the factory alloy wheels, in my homemade spray booth.





A few pics from the kit unboxing:


T28 Turbo




Downpipe


Manifold



Intercool and Charge Piping



Here is a pic of the whole kit and the website that sells it:

https://www.turbokits.com/Toyota/Corolla/Turbo_Kits/TurboKits.com_Corolla_2ZR-FE_Turbo_Kit/1972/

 

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Corolla Fan
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DUDE. this car is gonna FLY with all that WHP!!! Thanks for the details on what you needed to do your 2ZR-FE swap. :) If i ever downgrade from a corolla to a smaller yaris, I'll know what to do! :D

And would you please link us to your yaris thread in your Original post, so we can follow more closely there, if we wish to? thanks!

I hope the install goes well, and I'm excited to see the progress updates!!
 

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Diehard Rams Fan
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I'm really excited to follow this build. My daughter has a 2008 Yaris 2dr HB 5-speed manual and she has asked me about turbocharging it. I installed TRD lowering springs and a T.W.M. short shifter. She had the windows tinted and I bought her the wheels for her birthday after she bought it. Maybe this thread will inspire her since she's done with nursing school now. :grin:
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Thanks guys! I spent a very short time in the garage after work today; just enough time to get the exhaust off (manifold, not included). Hoping to remove the hood and wiper tray tomorrow. I've been liberally spraying the manifold nuts/studs with ReleasAll. My next challenge is getting the manifold shroud off, then the mainifold. Frankly, I'm not sure how I'm going to get the OEM manifold out. Hoping it will come out the top, otherwise, I think I'll be into an axle removal. I clocked my turbo tonight and started wading through the massive pile of fittings. Jim, trust me, LOL, I'll be coming to you for a few pointers. Haha

Jim, that's a sweet little Yaris and is deserving of a turbo! Hopefully I prove that it can be done. I was generously offered a free set of MicroImage lowering springs, but think I'll stay with the stock for now.

Here is the link Cuban Legend, as per your request. It will be more detailed as yarisworld is my 'automotive home'.

http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=61699



Anyway, here are a few pics:







Turbo Clocking:





 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Jim, a question for you. When you installed your turbo and manifold, did you do it as one piece or did you mount the manifold, then the turbo to the manifold? I ask as I can't see getting them in there together. I really doubt I have the room to work them in there. Also, did you go through the exhaust tunnel? Or, in front of the crossmember?

Once I get them up behind the engine, it looks like there will be lots of room.

I'd also be interested in your approach to removing the exhaust manifold shield.

Thanks!
 

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Corolla Fan
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Jim, a question for you. When you installed your turbo and manifold, did you do it as one piece or did you mount the manifold, then the turbo to the manifold? I ask as I can't see getting them in there together. I really doubt I have the room to work them in there. Also, did you go through the exhaust tunnel? Or, in front of the crossmember?

Once I get them up behind the engine, it looks like there will be lots of room.

I'd also be interested in your approach to removing the exhaust manifold shield.

Thanks!
Nice progress, I'm interested to know as well how youll get the old stuff off and the new stuff in?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Nice progress, I'm interested to know as well how youll get the old stuff off and the new stuff in?
Thanks, Cuban Legend. I'm pretty sure the tunnel in the Yaris is smaller than the Corolla, so that avenue may be out, unless I drop the subframe. I also think there is less room between the 2ZR and the subframe of the Yaris than there is in the Corolla. The other option is to remove the axle as it's right in the path to the manifold. That would be the easier job, but we'll see what Jim has to say. If I removed the wastegate actuator, that would downsize it a bit too.
 

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Diehard Rams Fan
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Jim, a question for you. When you installed your turbo and manifold, did you do it as one piece or did you mount the manifold, then the turbo to the manifold? I ask as I can't see getting them in there together. I really doubt I have the room to work them in there. Also, did you go through the exhaust tunnel? Or, in front of the crossmember?

Once I get them up behind the engine, it looks like there will be lots of room.

I'd also be interested in your approach to removing the exhaust manifold shield.

Thanks!
I did install the turbo and manifold as one piece. I was able to get them up through the exhaust tunnel. I didn't have to remove the crossmember. I would guess that you will have less room to work in and around under the hood of your Yaris.

I just took the bolts off to remove the exhaust manifold heat shield, they came right off without even soaking them with any oil.

You can see the room I had to work with. :grin:
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Thanks, Jim. Another option I have is to loosen the upper passenger side motor mount and rock the engine forward. This would likely necessitate the removal of my A/C firewall line as it would be in the way pretty much for sure. No real biggie as I have a manifold gauge set to do a recharge. No matter how I do it, it looks as though the manifold and turbo are going to have to go in as separate pieces. We shall see. Maybe when I get the manifold off, I'll see that there's actually more room than it appears there is now.

Did you trim any of the turbo manifold studs? One of them comes very close to (if not touching) the turbo exhaust turbine. Lastly, I saw in your pics that your water lines where attached to the turbo have screw clamps. I'm guessing you supplied these yourself?

I do have to say, the quality of the stuff is quite impressive.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
Manifold comes off tomorrow...hopefully

Got the upper heat shield off, Finally! This was a bear. The bolts that protruded through the captive nuts were very rusty and took a lot of soaking, wire brushing of the exposed threads below and considerable force to remove. I was sure I was going to break my 12mm ratchet wrench (A+ for Mastercraft Maximum). Each turn was a sharp snap. I worked them back and forth and finally they came out. Very tight space to work in too.



Manifold should come off tomorrow. After of course, I get the lower heat shield and manifold support bracket off. I have to remove the lower heat shield to get at the support bolts.



Here is the space I have to work with. I have about a 7" x 7" window. The turbo is close to 8" at the widest spot (the compressor outet), but I'm optimistic that I can tilt it over the steering rack and get it in there. The wastegate actuator and bracket will definitely have to come off and get reinstalled after the turbo is mounted. I'm less worried about the manifold, but it will have to go in first and by itself. I removed the long tunnel heat shield that runs back past the resonator. I'll replace this before I install the downpipe.

 

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Diehard Rams Fan
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Thanks, Jim. Another option I have is to loosen the upper passenger side motor mount and rock the engine forward. This would likely necessitate the removal of my A/C firewall line as it would be in the way pretty much for sure. No real biggie as I have a manifold gauge set to do a recharge. No matter how I do it, it looks as though the manifold and turbo are going to have to go in as separate pieces. We shall see. Maybe when I get the manifold off, I'll see that there's actually more room than it appears there is now.

Did you trim any of the turbo manifold studs? One of them comes very close to (if not touching) the turbo exhaust turbine. Lastly, I saw in your pics that your water lines where attached to the turbo have screw clamps. I'm guessing you supplied these yourself?

I do have to say, the quality of the stuff is quite impressive.
I didn't trim any turbo manifold studs. There was one that was close as you described, if I remember right, but it was easy to assemble since I did it on the bench. I was able to start the nut without the turbo being tightened down to the manifold and once it was on I just worked it down.

I agree, the quality is top notch. It's hard to understand it until you see it for yourself.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Manifold Off

The manifold is off with no broken studs. I think the wire brushing and days of soaking with the ReleasAll really helped. They were tight, but turned smoothly.

I was thrilled that the tunnel is big enough to pull the manifold through, so I'm optimistic that the turbo and turbo manifold will fit through, though separately.

The most involved part was removing all the heat shields. You have to take off one at a time to reveal the next set of bolts. Because of their proximity - obviously - to the heat of the manifold, the exposed threads past the captive nuts get really rusty and explode, making them very difficult to remove. Anyway, on to the pics...

Nasty Heat Shields/bracket Removed (these bolts themselves were in good shape, unlike many of the others):



Manifold Nut Removal:



Manifold Out:



Manifold Gasket (Ordering a new one tomorrow)



Ready for Turbo Manifold ( I may see what's involved in procuring and replacing the firewall padding as mine's a bit ratty. Or, I'll just trim if off neatly):

 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
Turbo/Manifold Test Fit (The Good and The Bad)

The Good: The manifold and turbo fit separately through the tunnel.





The Bad: In its current state, there is not enough room for the turbo between the head and firewall.

The OK: However, I think I really only need to make about a 1" deep indentation in the firewall for adequate clearance - maybe a touch more to allow for engine rocking. I wonder what's directly behind this area in the car. So, I'll be bringing home, from the shop tomorrow a couple of brass rods and a big-arse hammer. I'll have to peel the carpet back and make sure I won't damage anything in that area.

I also have to clock the turbo a few more degrees so the compressor outlet lines up allowing the charge pipe to fit in the opening between the subframe and axle.

Edit: On another very positive note, I took the downpipe out and it looks as though it is going to fit perfectly without any mods. Very happy about that!



 

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Corolla Fan
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The Good: The manifold and turbo fit separately through the tunnel.





The Bad: In its current state, there is not enough room for the turbo between the head and firewall.

The OK: However, I think I really only need to make about a 1" deep indentation in the firewall for adequate clearance - maybe a touch more to allow for engine rocking. I wonder what's directly behind this area in the car. So, I'll be bringing home, from the shop tomorrow a couple of brass rods and a big-arse hammer. I'll have to peel the carpet bak and make sure I won;t damage anything in that area.

I also have to clock the turbo a few more degrees so the compressor outlet lines up allowing the charge pipe to fit in the opening between the subframe and axle.

Edit: On another very positive note, I took the downpipe out and it looks as though it is going to fit perfectly without any mods. Very happy about that!



thats amazing progress and amazingly descriptive details and photos, as always! Neat! I'm so happy to see this coming along, it's almost like we're going through the build along with you, lol.
 

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Diehard Rams Fan
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The Good: The manifold and turbo fit separately through the tunnel.





The Bad: In its current state, there is not enough room for the turbo between the head and firewall.

The OK: However, I think I really only need to make about a 1" deep indentation in the firewall for adequate clearance - maybe a touch more to allow for engine rocking. I wonder what's directly behind this area in the car. So, I'll be bringing home, from the shop tomorrow a couple of brass rods and a big-arse hammer. I'll have to peel the carpet back and make sure I won't damage anything in that area.

I also have to clock the turbo a few more degrees so the compressor outlet lines up allowing the charge pipe to fit in the opening between the subframe and axle.

Edit: On another very positive note, I took the downpipe out and it looks as though it is going to fit perfectly without any mods. Very happy about that!



Sure brings back memories of me doing my turbo install. That turbo and manifold sure are beautiful! Those pics look just like the ones I took. :lol: Looks like where they are hitting the firewall all be an easy fix. :thumbsup::thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Firewall "Messaging".

People see to use the term "messaging" the firewall. I call it beating the crap out of it. I'm not finshed, but I've basically created about a 1.5" - 2" cup into which the turbo compressor housing can fit when the engine rocks backwards under acceleration. I used the blunt end of my breaker bar and a big hammer. I worked in a ever decreasing diameter. Right now the turbo should clear as I believe it should rotate downwards slightly. I base this on the positioning of the motor mounts. I plan to grind down the rough bits, skim it with bondo, quick sand, prime and color match paint it. I have about a pint of the OEM color left, so I'm good for supplies.

I also picked up a tube of Proform Urethane and will remove the dogbone mount and fill that up. If it does fail, I'll redo it with actual catalyzed urethane.

I also permanently mounted the manifold. The OEM gasket was in good shape, but received a thin bead of Copper High Heat RTV on both sides, so hopefully no leaks. The RTV squeezed out ever so slightly, so the seal should be good. I'll retorque again tomorrow.

 

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Diehard Rams Fan
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Good job! Looks like that will provide more than enough room. :thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
Good job! Looks like that will provide more than enough room. :thumbsup:
Yeah, I hope so too. I came very close to my HVAC unit behind the firewall. Any more and I expect I would have damaged it. I got really lucky that the support mounts for the unit - that are mounted on the firewall - straddle the area that needed to be dented in. It isn't pretty but it's all primed and painted. I'll blast it with my rustproofing when its cured.

However, the turbo is permanently installed. It was a complete nightmare bolting it up to the manifold. It took me close to 2 hours to get the copper nuts tightened down - extreme contortions and a lot of scrapes and cuts on my hands and arms. I'm going to trim my firewall blanket as it's quite ratty.

Anyway, tomorrow - time permitting - I'll drain the oil, drill and tap the return line and reinstall the oil pan.

The angle of the pic doesn't really show the clearance. The topmost nub of the compressor housing should clear the topmost part of my dent by 3/4 - 1" and as the engine rocks backwards and tilts, I should have about 2"of clearance in total. Although the pic does not suggest it, the turbine has lots of clearance and actually is more inline with the tunnel. If I do have any issues, I'll reinforce my torque strut (dogbone) with polyurethane, making it stiffer.
Also, I have to clock the compressor housing a few degrees back toward the engine so that it will line up with the space between the axle and subframe.

BTW, the stringy tape at the bottom of the oil drain fitting isn't the teflon, but rather the tape I used to seal the drain from getting dirt into the turbo.

 

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Diehard Rams Fan
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Love the progress! Here is a pic of my oil return in case it helps with placement. It's important to get it above the level of oil in the oil pan.


 
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