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so sorry you didnt make your expected power target, but like others said, you've got a great platform to build boost on and investigate further, the most reliable platform too! it sucks about boost in overdrive maybe never being a thing, and it doesnt come on until 5k? what a bummer, wow.. it comes on before 5k when in 2nd or 3rd at least, right? i also wonder what the Turbokits guys may say about a T25 turbo vs the T28, if it would help you with spoolup?

i hope you find the method to resolve the bucking, make sure you clean your maf sensor and ensure you run some seafoam on your engine and your gas tank for good measure, i do that on my corolla every 10k miles and each time it brings my car back into perfect running condition when in idle and cruising, all the inconsistencies are cleaned out, and the car purrs like it was brand new again! It cleans the car out so well, i can feel a measurable improvement in the RPM consistency at almost all speeds, its spooky!

I'm at 87k now, so im about 2-3 months away from my next seafoam and oil change at 90k! :D I may start doing seafoam and closer intervals if i notice more issues, but it may be i need new spark plugs too, never even checked my current ones that came with the car, lol. Also dont be afraid to double check your sparkplug gap.. you never know what could be the cause of bucking or weird inconsistencies...
 

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Discussion Starter #242 (Edited)
so sorry you didnt make your expected power target, but like others said, you've got a great platform to build boost on and investigate further, the most reliable platform too! it sucks about boost in overdrive maybe never being a thing, and it doesnt come on until 5k? what a bummer, wow.. it comes on before 5k when in 2nd or 3rd at least, right? i also wonder what the Turbokits guys may say about a T25 turbo vs the T28, if it would help you with spoolup?

i hope you find the method to resolve the bucking, make sure you clean your maf sensor and ensure you run some seafoam on your engine and your gas tank for good measure, i do that on my corolla every 10k miles and each time it brings my car back into perfect running condition when in idle and cruising, all the inconsistencies are cleaned out, and the car purrs like it was brand new again! It cleans the car out so well, i can feel a measurable improvement in the RPM consistency at almost all speeds, its spooky!

I'm at 87k now, so im about 2-3 months away from my next seafoam and oil change at 90k! :D I may start doing seafoam and closer intervals if i notice more issues, but it may be i need new spark plugs too, never even checked my current ones that came with the car, lol. Also dont be afraid to double check your sparkplug gap.. you never know what could be the cause of bucking or weird inconsistencies...
Thanks CubanLegend. The car is working better now after yesterday's fiddling. I'm picking up a mechanical vacuum/boost gauge today and plumbing that into my vacuum lines, running the tubing into my window and will monitor pressures. I really think the Torque is wrong because when I come off boost, it is reading vacuum, but I still hear the BOV good and strong.

I spoke with my tuner this morning and we are probably going to do a street tune. That way he can adjust the F/IC maps as I drive in the way that I do.

Spark gap is a good suggestion. I plan to take the plugs out and look at them anyway. The car tends towards a bit rich, especially at deceleration or low speed cruising with light throttle. I'm hoping that during the street tune that we can remove fuel under those conditions. And, add fuel where I'm getting my bucking on the highway.

I still think the MAF is playing a role in the idle. I did pull some timing at idle and it seemed to smooth out marginally but the rpm stayed the same.
 

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Discussion Starter #243
Making progress...

1) Bucking at highway on hills (light to moderate throttle)

As I described, I'm getting a bit of bucking (misfiring?) at around 110 - 120 km/h on hills with moderate throttle. Again, if I add a touch more throttle, or ease off the bucking stops. I connected the laptop, monitored AFRs and found the precise spots where the bucking occurs. So, it appears that between 1.3 - 3.3 pounds of boost, I get the bucking. You can see that this is the point were significantly less fuel is taken away in the interest of becoming more rich as this is the onset of boost. Above that, more fuel is added. This is the tuner's map which is currently the one loaded in the F/IC. I will speak to turbokits.com as they have the same cell values in the table.



2) Boost

Monitoring my MAP from the F/IC software, I am definitely getting boost and it starts below 3000 rpm. I have seen as high as ~21 PSIA - around 6 psi boost - but I wasn't full throttle with pedal to the boards. It's difficult to monitor it with the laptop on the passenger seat while driving, so I picked up some stuff today to monitor my boost directly. For now, I will run the tubing through the firewall as I expect I'll end up getting an actual boost gauge.

 

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Discussion Starter #244 (Edited)
Boost test with gauge

So, I tapped into the MAF line to the F/IC to test my boost using the gauge I picked up. I am definitely getting boost in the lower rpms ~ 2800. If I mash the throttle in third the boost shoots up to 4.5 and tops out. I had a couple of thoughts:

1) the vacuum hoses that connect to both the throttlebody and manifold are held on by pretty flimsy spring clamps. These are certainly not designed to experience positive pressure, only vacuum. I can actually turn the hoses and could easily pull them off with the spring clamps on. I am going to pick up some screw pipe clamps and tighten those down. There are about 6 connection points that I think have the potential to leak.

2) Manifold and throttlebody gaskets. Since it's impractical to pressure test the manifold or throttlebody, I think I may go ahead and order a gasket for each. In both the process of the engine swap and during the turbo build, I removed both items. It's possible they are leaking. I think leaks in these areas would also contribute to my idling issues.

3) If the above doesn't produce results, I'm going to remove my air filter and test drive the car. I actually may do this before step 2, if I have to wait for parts.

4) If none of the above works, I'm going to cut my CAT.
 

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Boost test with gauge

So, I tapped into the MAF line to the F/IC to test my boost using the gauge I picked up. I am definitely getting boost in the lower rpms ~ 2800. If I mash the throttle in third the boost shoots up to 4.5 and tops out. I had a couple of thoughts:

1) the vacuum hoses that connect to both the throttlebody and manifold are held on by pretty flimsy spring clamps. These are certainly not designed to experience positive pressure, only vacuum. I can actually turn the hoses and could easily pull them off with the spring clamps on. I am going to pick up some screw pipe clamps and tighten those down. There are about 6 connection points that I think have the potential to leak.

2) Manifold and throttlebody gaskets. Since it's impractical to pressure test the manifold or throttlebody, I think I may go ahead and order a gasket for each. In both the process of the engine swap and during the turbo build, I removed both items. It's possible they are leaking. I think leaks in these areas would also contribute to my idling issues.

3) If the above doesn't produce results, I'm going to remove my air filter and test drive the car. I actually may do this before step 2, if I have to wait for parts.

4) If none of the above works, I'm going to cut my CAT.
I used clamps on all of my vacuum lines too. You can see them right behind my OCC.

Did you gap down your spark plugs as it said to do? I think it was down to .028 if I remember right.
 

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Discussion Starter #246 (Edited)
I used clamps on all of my vacuum lines too. You can see them right behind my OCC.

Did you gap down your spark plugs as it said to do? I think it was down to .028 if I remember right.
Yes, I'm hoping the clamps will have an influence on my boost. It's possible that I have a few sources of leaking. Plugs were gapped to .028.

I've been doing some research on my bucking issue at moderate throttle between 1 and 3 psi. I compared the tuner's map and the basemap for TK. The fuel cell values in that area of the maps are identical, so not sure what's causing that since it started doing it after my tune. The tuner recommends adding some fuel in those cells. I"ll test drive, replicating the stuttering and monitor my AFRs. If lean, I'll add some fuel. The research I did suggests a couple possibilities. 1) radical changes in adjacent cells can cause bucking at certain loads, or 2) I need to wire in parallel a 2.2K ohm resistor between the crank mag wires. Apparently several turboed Scion cars have this issue. Boomslang started adding these resistors to there PnP harnesses around 2007. I have a 2008 Scion ECU. I wonder if your Boomslang has the redistors wired in.
 

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Yes, I'm hoping the clamps will have an influence on my boost. It's possible that I have a few sources of leaking. Plugs were gapped to .028.

I've been doing some research on my bucking issue at moderate throttle between 1 and 3 psi. I compared the tuner's map and the basemap for TK. The fuel cell values in that area of the maps are identical, so not sure what's causing that since it started doing it after my tune. The tuner recommends adding some fuel in those cells. I"ll test drive, replicating the stuttering and monitor my AFRs. If lean, I'll add some fuel. The research I did suggests a couple possibilities. 1) radical changes in adjacent cells can cause bucking at certain loads, or 2) I need to wire in parallel a 2.2K ohm resistor between the crank mag wires. Apparently several turboed Scion cars have this issue. Boomslang started adding these resistors to there PnP harnesses around 2007. I have a 2008 Scion ECU. I wonder if your Boomslang has the redistors.
Interesting thought. You might be onto something.
 

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Discussion Starter #248

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Discussion Starter #249
More updates...

So, I was out datalogging today. I'll review those in a bit.

I have almost erradicated my stumble at part throttle at around 3100 rpm. I have been adding fuel to the cells which are highlighted when the car bucks. I still have one small buck to eliminate. Fortunately we have a good stretch of highway with hills, but it's still a challenge to drive, hold rpm and edit the table simultaneously. I don't really have anyone that could either drive - the way I need the car driven - or that could make the changes in the software. I'm going out again this afternoon, to kill - I hope - once and for all, the last stumble. It is a tricky process as when you make a change in one cell, the stumble might suddenly shift to the area represented by another cell (aka, different rpm and load). My fuel table looks crazy with fuel added and in many cells and radical shifts from once cell to the adjacent ones, so I'll be closely monitoring my AFRs to be sure I don't have any dangerous lean spots. I don't expect to as all I've been doing is adding fuel. AFRs where I've made the changes look good. That said, I'm going to confirm this with turbokits and my tuner before I go blasting around in boost.

The best news...I think...

For the first time today, I was driving around with my window open. As I enter boost, I can hear air hissing from the driver's side quarter panel. As the boost increases (and maxes at around 4 psi), the hissing gets louder, then my BOV releases when I come off the throttle. I HAVE ANOTHER BOOST LEAK! I think, or a vacuum line leak that's not keeping the BOV fully shut under boost. This is looking very promising. If I get this fixed (I'm still in the process of adding clamps to vacuum lines and will recheck all my T-clamps, I expect I'll see my full boost.

I will say that the car is positively nasty already at 4 psi. It pulls very hard and the wheel(s) (just one as I have no LSD) wants to spin at speeds over 30 - 40, km/h when it downshifts in boost, and I'm on a hill for example. I did, for the first time enter moderate boost (maybe 3 psi, moderate given my current max boost) in 2nd gear and it chirped the tires shifting to 3rd. I was really surprised. Honestly, I quite afraid of what this car will be capable of at 8 psi.
 

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Discussion Starter #250 (Edited)
Bubbles

As I mentioned earlier, I could hear a significant air leak coming from my driver's quarter panel area when I entered boost. It got louder the farther I went into boost. I think I got lucky and stumbled on the right combination of factors: I had my window down and I was test driving on a back road, so sounds were bouncing back off the trees. Otherwise I might not have even heard the leak.

So... I conducted more testing.

Using my mini compressor, I repeated my charge pipe pressure test. As before, it held 20 psi with ease and there were no leaks - the gauge stayed dead at 20. This is with the BOV removed and the port capped off.

Then I tested my vacuum/boost line that runs from the FIC MAP sensor to the BOV and gets its vacuum source from the brake booster line. The vacuum lines held 20 psi, no leaking, gauge didn't move.

So, we've established that there are no vacuum leaks, nor charge pipe leaks.

Finally, I reinstalled the BOV and tee'd off my compressor line so I could pressurize both the vacuum lines and the charge piping - simulating a manifold pressure boost situation. Unless, I'm doing something wrong (highly probable) or am not understanding fully how the system works (again, highly probable), I think my BOV is faulty. With both sides of the BOV pressurized, I have a significant leak with air bleeding from the BOV, until - guess when? - the pressure lowers to a little less than 5 psi and the gauge stays put. Hmmm... ~ 4 psi is the max boost I'm getting. I can't think of anything else, but it does really seem like I'm losing my boost - or not able to get to full boost - due to a leaking BOV. I passed this all by my tuner and he's pretty sure I've diagnosed this correctly. I've emailed the turbokits guys and I'm sure they'll have an answer for me. They are very attentative and bang on when it comes to support.

New testing apparatus



One hose from the compressor, one hose to the BOV and one hose to the F/IC MAP sensor



Lots of gushing air and bubbles with the BOV pressurized from both sides. The air is coming from the holes in the BOV, not my coupler/clamps.



Here's a pic of the schematic of my testing precedure:



On a positive note, I have pretty much erradicated my partial load stumbling at highway speeds. I did this by adding fuel in the active cells of the map where the stumbling occured. I still have one hiccup but could't get to it as my laptop battery died before I could eliminate that one. The changes have made for a pretty funky looking fuel map, but my tuner tells me that it is so vehicle dependent and that tuning it to address driveability issues is what's needed. He launched into a detailed explanation of closed loop vs open loop transitions, kilopascals and all kinds of other stuff that flew over my head. However, he says that many cars he's tuned have maps that are all over the place and that's perfectly fine if that's what the car needs. Of course, I do have to watch AFRs as I make changes, but I'm only adding fuel, not subtracting. Again, I'll bounce this off the turbokits guys as they're the experts.
 

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Hi! I stumbled up on this post looking for how to do a 2ZR swap into a Yaris. Man, it’s even better than what I’m looking for. I have the 2 door hatch, or 3 however you want to see it. It’s already a fun car to drive, but I’d like a little more pep in it, and possibly do some autocross on the weekends. I am rooting for you and I’m sure I’m not the only one. 150-180HP at the wheels would AWESOME! I’d get wider tires definitely.
I do have a question, did you feel a significant power difference when you upgraded the engine? Did the itch get bigger is why you doing the upgrade? 😂
I will be closely following this. I hope you find the fix for the bugs. I apologize I have no knowledge to offer.
 

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I think it must have plenty of power I wish I could make my corolla lighter like a yaris...


How hard is it to turbo the 2zr-fe? Do I need better pistons and a better tranny?
 

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Discussion Starter #253
Hi! I stumbled up on this post looking for how to do a 2ZR swap into a Yaris. Man, it’s even better than what I’m looking for. I have the 2 door hatch, or 3 however you want to see it. It’s already a fun car to drive, but I’d like a little more pep in it, and possibly do some autocross on the weekends. I am rooting for you and I’m sure I’m not the only one. 150-180HP at the wheels would AWESOME! I’d get wider tires definitely.
I do have a question, did you feel a significant power difference when you upgraded the engine? Did the itch get bigger is why you doing the upgrade? 😂
I will be closely following this. I hope you find the fix for the bugs. I apologize I have no knowledge to offer.
Hey SuperSaYAnRIS. Although the numbers don't suggest a significant increase, the 2ZR-FE upgrade changes the game quite a bit, especially in terms of smoother and more robust power delivery. The dual VVTi helps a lot resulting in stronger pulling through the rev range when compared to the 1NZ. In a moment I will link you to a few 2ZR swap threads on yarisworld. One of the guys that did the swap autocrosses his car and another tracks his. I was quite happy with the power of the 2ZR in the light weight Yaris, but I always need a project and it seemed like the obvious. Haha.

The turbo definitely takes the car to another level altogether. I've managed to get the car to consistently hit ~5.5 psi through my tweaks and it is a rocket, even at less than the full 8.6 boost that the kit delivers. If I reach 7 - 8 psi and can be sure that the turbo isn't overspinning, I may stop there. An LSD would be great as the car wants to torque steer in 2nd and third and that's without the throttle mashed. Spinning the wheels at 30 - 40 km/h wouldn't be a problem, LOL, if I was inclined. I'm making progress and expect to have an ah ha moment any time. I just reseated a couple of couplers and am going for another test run soon. My plan is to not drive the car too hard, but to have power in reserve when I feel like letting it loose. The 2ZR, from what I've read, should easily handle 8 psi and I won't be in that range often. The transmisson seems to not mind the turbo at all, but I doubt it would last too long if I kept the car in 'high' boost all the time.

Swap threads:

Brushforhire's thread:

http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=56678

tmontague's thread:

http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=57875

Tom Armstrong's thread:

http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=56031

Sam's thread:

http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=56523

My thread:

http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=61176
 

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Sweet! I’ve only seen Armstrong’s posts, as that’s the first one that comes up when I Google. I’ve made an account in YW, with the same name, so I’ll be following your post there more than here and have subscribed. 🤙🏼
Break a leg my new friend. When you succeed, we all succeed!
 

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Discussion Starter #255 (Edited)
I think it must have plenty of power I wish I could make my corolla lighter like a yaris...


How hard is it to turbo the 2zr-fe? Do I need better pistons and a better tranny?
Hi CochiseG.

I think there is only a 400 - 500 lb difference between the Yaris and Corolla. Jim (Supercharged Mr2) on here has the same kit I have (with a few upgrades) and he's having a blast with his 2010 (?) Corolla with a manual trans.

Well, I wouldn't characterize the turbo install as 'hard', per se, maybe more like a project that requires patience, research and - in my case (as the kit was not designed for my car), a little willingness to experiment and come up with solutions. From my understanding, installing this kit in a 2009+ Corolla would require some mechanical skills, but the initial results would be more satisfying. Since it was designed for that car and with its electrics etc, it would be, I believe, a lot less hassle. There is also a plug and play harness available for the Corolla, eliminating having to wire the piggyback into the ECU as I had to do.

I believe that you would not need to upgrade engine internals (pistons, con rods, crank bearings, head bolts etc) if you stay at the boost this kit delivers. The Lotus Elise uses the same stock 2ZR-FE internals, I believe, and it's supercharged. As far as the U340e auto trans goes, I guess time will tell. My tuner thought that the trans did just fine and he was ringing it out pretty hard. There was no slipping of the clutch packs and the shifts were smooth. I will never go WOT in first gear and will avoid full boost when shifting from 3rd to overdrive. If my trans does pack it in, I may consider a manual swap with a clutch upgrade. Or, another u340e with an upgraded valvebody, clutch packs and gear and shaft cryo treatment. Honestly, unlike most turbo fans, I like the auto.

What year is your Corolla?
 

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I think it must have plenty of power I wish I could make my corolla lighter like a yaris...


How hard is it to turbo the 2zr-fe? Do I need better pistons and a better tranny?
Turbocharging the 2ZR-FE in a 10th Gen Corolla is very straight forward with this turbo kit. The quality is top notch and the technical support from Turbokits can't be beat. It's made for the car so everything bolts right up without any internal upgrades. Even with the added weight of the Corolla over the Yaris my Corolla still moves great. I have a 2009 Corolla S with a 5MT and the extra 100HP is intoxicating. I'm getting 195HP to the wheels, around 230HP at the crank.

Here is my build thread.

https://www.toyotanation.com/forum/149-corolla-10th-gen-2nd-gen-matrix-2009-2013/1409258-supercharged-mr2-s-2009-2zr-fe-corolla-turbo-build-thread.html
 

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Discussion Starter #258
Another significant setback...

So, yesterday I was out driving around and I got a P0500 code (vechicle speed sensor). I thought it might be caused by chafed wires as one of my turbo coolant hoses looked like it was rubbing on it a bit. I conducted a continuity test and all there wires are fine. I was really hoping for lack of continuity in one of the wires, but no such luck. So, the next thing to check is the speed sensor itself. I soaked it in Releasall; allowing it to sit for a good amount of time. The bolt felt like it was turning and snapped off. Now I can't get sensor out to test it. I am not optimistic that the sensor itself is the problem, but if I can get it off, I will test it.

The current symptoms are: a MIL with code P0500, no speedometer and the car won't shift into overdrive.

I will try to remain optimistic, but I am beginning to wonder if I should have taken this project on. Things went so well for most of the build, but issues are cropping up that are putting a serious damper on my enjoyment of this.
 

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You don't technically have to take the sensor out to test them as long as you can get at the connector to probe it (At least the 2 times I've had to do it I managed this way). You pull it off the car's harness and direct to the sensor attach power and ground to the correct pins, then hook your multimeter to the signal wire and ground. Turning the tires pretty slowly should have your multimeter meter show pulsing on/off voltage.
 

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Discussion Starter #260
You don't technically have to take the sensor out to test them as long as you can get at the connector to probe it (At least the 2 times I've had to do it I managed this way). You pull it off the car's harness and direct to the sensor attach power and ground to the correct pins, then hook your multimeter to the signal wire and ground. Turning the tires pretty slowly should have your multimeter meter show pulsing on/off voltage.
Thanks chemlab! I was looking at my U340E service manual which describes the test procedure exactly as you do but of course it recommends removing the sensor. When I swapped in the 2ZR, I had to make the harness leg for the speed sensor as the Scion xD harness did not have that connector. My plan is to just cut the sensor wire and probe it with my multimeter as I spin the wheel. I'm supposed to see oscillating 0 and 11 volts. I'll just solder and heatshrink the signal wire when I'm done testing. My suspicion is that it will test fine and my problem lies elsewhere. At least if it is bad, I'll have a starting point. I am hoping and praying that it's an electrical issue and not a mechanical one. Thanks again.
 
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