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Discussion Starter #321
I've never been told to avoid any partial throttle under boost as that is what most is as I rarely just floor it. I haven't had any issues with detonation.

I don't mind trying to help develop some data sets. I would just need you to help me learn and understand what and how I would do that. Interfacing a computer and getting the information and even learning what I'm seeing would be great to know.
That's great Jim. It will be really interesting to see if we get similar results. There may also be a difference in the air/fuel ratios we see due to the differences in shift patterns and TPS readings between the auto and manual transmissions. This evening I'll start to do a write up on methods we can use to 'log' our data. Off to work now.
 

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That's great Jim. It will be really interesting to see if we get similar results. There may also be a difference in the air/fuel ratios we see due to the differences in shift patterns and TPS readings between the auto and manual transmissions. This evening I'll start to do a write up on methods we can use to 'log' our data. Off to work now.
Sounds good! Feel free to call me if you need to.
 

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Discussion Starter #323
Sounds good! Feel free to call me if you need to.
Excellent! A call may be in order. We could talk a bit first about what we're seeing. I'll pm you and we'll agree on a time. Sound good?
 

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Discussion Starter #324
After a bath and a good rip

I don't know if it's the weather (temp, humidity etc) or the car's ECU learning both fueling at idle and the new shift patterns, but the car is working great. The car hasn't stalled or even bucked at idle the last few times I've driven it. I drove around town and highway for a good hour after work and there were no stalls at stop lights, even idle and the shifting seems to have improved a lot. It's also starting on the first crank now. Before I might have to turn it over 2 or three times. I'm still getting some rich AFRs at light throttle deceleration and very light throttle (more like feathering the pedal) cruise, but oddly the ECU is commanding these AFRs. My 08 pretty much always commands 14.69, very infrequently 13s, but only for a split second.

Anyway, went for a good long drive tonight and entered full boost a half dozen times. The car pulls like crazy and shifts actually quite smoothly. After a good workout, coolant temps never exceeded 195, oil temps under 200, Trans temps around 180 - 190. It is cool out and the highest intake temp I saw tonight was around 80F. Very happy for now!

I still have to tighten my wastegate actuator arm but I'm hitting ~6 - 6.5 psi with the new kit in my BOV (Forge sent me a rebuild kit). Not sure if I really want or need the full 8.5 boost.

Crappy lighting + crappy camera = crappy pics...



 

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Excellent! A call may be in order. We could talk a bit first about what we're seeing. I'll pm you and we'll agree on a time. Sound good?
I've got my daughters wedding coming next weekend and I'll be on a cruise for a week after that just so you know. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #326

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Discussion Starter #327 (Edited)
Some positive developments

I always hate to say that something is definitively fixed. Or, that I've finally solved something or other, as I've learned that with these types of extreme modifications, there are really no 'for sures' or 'finallys'

But, I installed the 2.2 K Ohm resistor between crank mag + and -. Scions and Toyota's using the AEM F/IC often suffer from a dirty crank and cam sensor signal that freaks the F/IC out and it messes with (probably pulls) timing resulting in bucking at part throttle under low boost, or in the transition between boost and vacuum, I believe. In many cases these dirty signals have been known to mess with the idle as well.

I have driven the car for a good hour and a half and have zero bucking. I will qualify this by saying that I didn't get out on the highway where I was experiencing some bucking at around 130 km/h at a certain load. However, the slight bucking that I experienced at lower speeds and loads is gone (for now). Tomorrow I will get out on the highway and test. I may have to re adjust my fuel table as I made changes before the resistor install.

Idle: after 1.5 hours driving, sitting and idling (for numerous periods of time) in park, neutral and in gear with every accessory turned on, I experienced not one buck or idle fluctuation. Once the car hits operating temp it settles down at idle to around 600 rpm and is rock steady. The car also starts as soon as the ignition is turned.

Anyway, it looks good, but, again, I'm not holding by breath.

resistor soldered in



A Torque bonus

I was scanning through the available sensors and hadn't noticed before that an available PID is B1S1 CAT Temp and B1S2 CAT Temp. This is awesome as I can get a fair sense of my EGTs. The middle 2 gauges are B1S1 CAT Temp (top) and B1S2 CAT Temp (bottom). This is a great find. In this pic, the downstream 02 sensor hadn't reached operating temps so the voltage remained at 0.1V. As soon as I drove a bit, it came to life. I had been getting the occasional P0420 (Catalyst Inefficiency) code but I think it was due to the car bucking, going extremely lean and/or extremely rich under different conditions, shooting the 02 sensor voltage out of range. I will run the car for a bit and if the code returns, I'll just add a spark plug defouler, pulling the 02 sensor a back a touch out of the exhaust stream.

Anyway, at idle, I'm getting around 800 F EGT, around 1000 at cruise and after several good, but short boost sessions, I reached a max of around 1200 - 1300F. Keeping in mind that the temp is being taken after the turbo which I've read can be a couple hundred degrees cooler. So, that still seems good, not too high. Apparently many aftermarket EGT gauges start their redline around 1600F.



Car idling great

 

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Discussion Starter #331
Milk run tonight...

Here's a terrible quality video. I'll make a better one in the daytime. Max boost reached was ~5.5, so gotta get at the wastegate, plus lean up my AFRs at WOT. It is definitely a "safe" tune at WOT at around 10.5:1, so that could probably be leaned out a touch, like around 11.5, but I'll leave it as is for now, at least until I up my boost.

Anyway, it pulls hard and puts you back in your seat a bit. If I do mange to get up to 7 - 8 psi, it will be scary. Even now, I can't go WOT until about 30 - 40 km/h or the wheels will spin. It breaks loose in the video at around 50 km/h even if I ease into the throttle.

There's definitely more room for improvement, but it's a blast right now as it is. No WRX killer for sure, but if I get to my boost goal, I bet I would at least not totally embarrass myself.

 

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Discussion Starter #332
Adjusted wastegate yesterday. I gave the arm 2 turns. Boost is now steady 6 - 6.5 psi. At one point coming off a ramp on to the highway, I hit 7 psi. I'm going to give the wastegate another turn tomorrow. If I reach 7 - 7.5 psi, I will stop there. Soon I will do another video, but in the day this time since the night one turned out so crappy.

I'm pretty sure with the right launch, I can do 0-60 in around 7 seconds. I doubt it's achievable, but it would be amazing to hit ~6s. Maybe with better tires, I could get close. Right now time is wasted in first and second as it just spins.
 

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More GIMP image manipulation while I wait for my new tip to arrive and wait to get my muffler welded on. Thoughts on the exhaust being recessed into the bumper cover?

View attachment 281676
Yes, bumper recessed looks much cleaner. Assuming the bumper cover is the same material as my ‘09 corolla s, it will shape nicely with a heat gun. I added a twin dbl wall magna flow tip. I made the cutout a little smaller radius, then heated the edge and rolled it in. Looking from the rear the cutout is radiused same as the stock cutout. Care with the heat and handling and I didn’t bubble, crack, or peel the paint.
 

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Discussion Starter #334
Yes, bumper recessed looks much cleaner. Assuming the bumper cover is the same material as my ‘09 corolla s, it will shape nicely with a heat gun. I added a twin dbl wall magna flow tip. I made the cutout a little smaller radius, then heated the edge and rolled it in. Looking from the rear the cutout is radiused same as the stock cutout. Care with the heat and handling and I didn’t bubble, crack, or peel the paint.
Good to know about the heat gun. I think stock paint on bumpers has an elasticizer built in for flexibility. I painted mine with regular car paint (2K Urethane), so not sure if I could expect similar results. I might have to actually remove the bumper and do some fabrication with curved plastic and some bondo. Here is another concept, though it might actually look better if the tips came from the center of the muffler and were spaced out more. Or, if the muffler was a single, dual outlet muffler placed further back under the car and just the 2 tips protruding. Just having fun with Gimp again. LOL

 

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Good to know about the heat gun. I think stock paint on bumpers has an elasticizer built in for flexibility. I painted mine with regular car paint (2K Urethane), so not sure if I could expect similar results. I might have to actually remove the bumper and do some fabrication with curved plastic and some bondo. Here is another concept, though it might actually look better if the tips came from the center of the muffler and were spaced out more. Or, if the muffler was a single, dual outlet muffler placed further back under the car and just the 2 tips protruding. Just having fun with Gimp again. LOL

I’m not familiar with 2k Urethane specifically, but urethane has natural pliability. Practice down under on the lip of the cover.
 

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Discussion Starter #336
I’m not familiar with 2k Urethane specifically, but urethane has natural pliability. Practice down under on the lip of the cover.
I may well do that. I don't suppose you have pics of the work you did on yours?
 

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Here are some pics I just took. I did the change in ‘09. One of my first mods, magna flow muffler and twin tip. The muffler was too loud so I replaced it with a turbo muffler similar to your Thrush, (as I recall).
some of the molding distortion was from the project, and some has been from time and heat. The tips used to sit up higher and occasionally sat against the plastic. I did it in place as well. I suggest pulling it off. If doing it again, I would get a piece of mild steel rod, 1/4 to 3/8” diameter, and make the shape I want to mold the radius around. Use this in back as a form to wrap around. It would take a lot of the “free-hand” out of it.
Also, there is a certain amount of memory while hot, so as I write this, I am thinking about a form to sort of sandwich the heated, soft plastic around the rod while it cools.

All that said, the imperfections are not really noticeable unless looking for them.

284721


284722
 

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Discussion Starter #339
Here are some pics I just took. I did the change in ‘09. One of my first mods, magna flow muffler and twin tip. The muffler was too loud so I replaced it with a turbo muffler similar to your Thrush, (as I recall).
some of the molding distortion was from the project, and some has been from time and heat. The tips used to sit up higher and occasionally sat against the plastic. I did it in place as well. I suggest pulling it off. If doing it again, I would get a piece of mild steel rod, 1/4 to 3/8” diameter, and make the shape I want to mold the radius around. Use this in back as a form to wrap around. It would take a lot of the “free-hand” out of it.
Also, there is a certain amount of memory while hot, so as I write this, I am thinking about a form to sort of sandwich the heated, soft plastic around the rod while it cools.

All that said, the imperfections are not really noticeable unless looking for them.

View attachment 284721

View attachment 284722
For some reason I stopped receiving notifications about posts. Thanks for the pics. Yes, it seems like you can definitely work the plastic. I really like what you've done with it. I can see getting the correct, uniform and smooth radius as being a challenge. In my case, I think a combination of moulding with heat accompanied by shaping with plastic bits and bondo might be the best approach. I think my bumper would be coming off for this job. I plan to repaint my car again - possibly next summer- and customizing my bumper for the exhaust would be an obvious first step.
 

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Discussion Starter #340 (Edited)
8 psi!

I adjusted the wastegate again about two days ago and hadn't driven the car until today. There is a significant difference between 6 and 8 psi. Although the car pulled hard at 6, it's absolutely insane at 8 psi. Torque steer is becoming more apparent, but the car is easily controllable with a good drip on the wheel. Truthfully, I don't think I really understood how much of a difference preloading the wastegate could make. When I clocked the turbo, I had to remove the actuator, actuator arm extension and the actuator bracket. When I put it all back together, I don't think that I had shortened the arm to the preset length. I was a bit long. This was causing the wastegate to open quite a bit around 5 psi.

I'm definitely looking more seriously at performance tires. I think I will go with either a 195/55R15 or might press it a bit and go for a 205/50/15. I've been doing a lot of reading and although 205 is well out of spec for a 5.5" rim, a lot of guys have been using this size tire with that rim width. Some day I'll buy new wheels for the car as much as I'd hate to change the stock look. I have been pushing the 195s I have on the car quite a bit harder than my normal driving and I'm not noticing any performance issues, no sidewall roll or the like and that's with about the cheapest tires you could buy in that size. A performance tire with a stiffer side wall might allow me to go with the wider 205 tires. I also think that would enhance the look of the car significantly.

I'm still mulling over which performance brake pads to buy. The Hawks are currently at the top of my list. Also exploring the rotor options available for the car. I'm open to any opinions regarding rotors, slotted, slotted/drilled, drilled, blank and midrange pricing.
 
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