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Discussion Starter #21 (Edited)
Tonight's Tinkering

When I was under the car removing the dogbone to fill it with urethane, I had a mild panic situation as I noticed that the compressor out nozzle was aiming directly at the subframe, several inches from a direct down shot to the space between the axle and the subframe. I assumed that in the Corolla the opening is much larger and the pipe went straight down through. So, I started calculating that I'd need an offset coupler (if such a thing exists) a bit of pipe and a few clamps. Much to my delight, I dug through my boxes and then referred to the install manual, and there is a 45 coupler that attaches to the compressor outlet and the pipe it joins also starts with a 45. A little trimming (which you have to do too with the Corolla) and the piping fits perfectly! So happy!





The other thing I did tonight was fill my mount with urethane. The mount was a bit rusty and a bit of the rubber at the top had started to peel away as rust formed under it. I trimmed off these small sections, scraped off the rust. I wire brushed the complete mount (rubber and all) with soapy water and the degreased with lacquer thinner. I also bored out the holes a bit so I could get full contact through the mount.

I probably wouldn't have had to strengthen these mounts at all as when I removed the dogbone, I could rock the engine a bit. At it's farthest back position - where it contacts the rubber seal on the subframe, the turbo still had about 3/4" clearance. The engine won't go back that far I'm sure anyway with the dogbone in. On the upside, maybe I'll get a little better power response with the tighter mount. If it's too rough and I don't like it, I'll order a new mount and install that.



 

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Corolla Fan
2013 Corolla L
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Hmmm. I just had a thought, so how exactly does your routine oil change procedure change after the turbo install, do you have to disconnect the turbo feed line and drain it? And if you have an oil cooler added on, do you have to do anythign extra to drain the oil oil in that part of the system?

Does the amount of oil you have to add after an oil change differ slightly due to more tubing and volume the oil has to flow through during it's lubrication cycle?
 

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Discussion Starter #23 (Edited)
Hmmm. I just had a thought, so how exactly does your routine oil change procedure change after the turbo install, do you have to disconnect the turbo feed line and drain it? And if you have an oil cooler added on, do you have to do anythign extra to drain the oil oil in that part of the system?

Does the amount of oil you have to add after an oil change differ slightly due to more tubing and volume the oil has to flow through during it's lubrication cycle?
Hey. No changes in routine as far as I know. The turbo only needs to be primed on the initial startup and not during each oil change. I have no plans of installing an oil cooler, though I might install a transmission cooler. I can't see the oil system circuit needing any more than a couple ounces of additional oil. I will, however, be switching to a full synthetic for this car. I'll probably go with the SuperTech Full Synthetic as it's been proven to be a very robust and capable oil. Of course, if I find some Pennzoil Ultra or Mobil 1 on sale, I'd likely grab a few jugs of that.
 

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Diehard Rams Fan
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Hmmm. I just had a thought, so how exactly does your routine oil change procedure change after the turbo install, do you have to disconnect the turbo feed line and drain it? And if you have an oil cooler added on, do you have to do anythign extra to drain the oil oil in that part of the system?

Does the amount of oil you have to add after an oil change differ slightly due to more tubing and volume the oil has to flow through during it's lubrication cycle?
The only thing that I've done is switch from 0w-20 to 5w-30. I've always used synthetic oil on my Corolla since new. I change the oil yearly so far since the mileage on it is lower with all of the cars I own.
 

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Corolla Fan
2013 Corolla L
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The only thing that I've done is switch from 0w-20 to 5w-30. I've always used synthetic oil on my Corolla since new. I change the oil yearly so far since the mileage on it is lower with all of the cars I own.
wow a double oil weight switch? heavier on both hot and cold sides? why?? Is it because of your Washington state location (if i remember correctly) and the winter temps? Cuz i'm in florida, would i ever need to change my oil weight down here if i get the turbokit?? I doubt it.. these 2013 corolla engines... aren't they pretty finicky with oil weights on the synthetic end due to crank and cam oil pressure tolerances being tight?
 

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Discussion Starter #26
I'm guessing that Corolla specs 0W20, does it? I have been running 5W20 in all my vehicles, but like you, Jim, I'll be using a 5W30 syn. I know that xW20s are extremely robust, but a 30 weight with the turbo makes me 'feel' a bit safer.
 

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Corolla Fan
2013 Corolla L
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I'm guessing that Corolla specs 0W20, does it? I have been running 5W20 in all my vehicles, but like you, Jim, I'll be using a 5W30 syn. I know that xW20s are extremely robust, but a 30 weight with the turbo makes me 'feel' a bit safer.
hmmm... im curious, where do you live (is it hot or wintery-cold?), and why would it make you feel a bit safer?
 

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Diehard Rams Fan
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wow a double oil weight switch? heavier on both hot and cold sides? why?? Is it because of your Washington state location (if i remember correctly) and the winter temps? Cuz i'm in florida, would i ever need to change my oil weight down here if i get the turbokit?? I doubt it.. these 2013 corolla engines... aren't they pretty finicky with oil weights on the synthetic end due to crank and cam oil pressure tolerances being tight?
I'm guessing that Corolla specs 0W20, does it? I have been running 5W20 in all my vehicles, but like you, Jim, I'll be using a 5W30 syn. I know that xW20s are extremely robust, but a 30 weight with the turbo makes me 'feel' a bit safer.
The Corolla used 0w-20 in N/A but in some other areas of the world the 2ZR-FE used 5w-30. I'm trying to remember the name of the Corolla owner that lived in BC, Canada and he used 5w-30 year round with no issues over 200k miles on his Corolla. I just felt with the higher oil temps with the turbo that using a 5w-30 would be the best choice. I guess I could use 0w-30 but a 5w-30 should be fine since a 5w-20 was also acceptable for my Corolla when it was new.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
hmmm... im curious, where do you live (is it hot or wintery-cold?), and why would it make you feel a bit safer?
Just noticed that I hadn't identified my location in my profile. I'll do that. I live in New Brunswick, Canada.

Like Jim, I think, I feel a little safer using an oil on the heavier operating temperature side. My reasoning is that since oil thins as it get hotter (although it's supposed to stay a the viscosity of the second number at operating temp), some thinning can occur - especially at the potentially higher temps/pressures associated with a turbo. In theory, a more viscous oil at operating temperature would provide a larger margin of safety. This is just my understanding.

Check this out for great info on oils:
https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/forum_summary
 

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Discussion Starter #30 (Edited)
Turbo Oil Drain Fitting Installed:

Pan removal. Such a pleasure working on an engine that is relatively new. Bolts came off so easily.



Toyota sure loves their RTV. Took about 1/2 hour to get the pan off without damaging the pan itself or the mating surface.



Pan Off



A+ DeWalt. 90 degree attachment worked like an absolute charm.



This part was scary. I've tapped lots of sheet steel but never cast. The tap cut nicely with lots of rotations and counter rotations, but I was afraid that the block was going to crack. 9/16" hole drilled for 3/8" NPT threads.



Threads in perfectly and should be almost touching the block when tightened down with teflon tape and then high temp RTV on the backside.



Tomorrow, I'll go out and reinstall the pan and connect the hose from the turbo drain to the new fitting.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
Oil pan has been reinstalled. I'll retorque the bolts tomorrow as well as clean up the RTV on the bottom of the pan.



Plumbing done and wastegate actuator reinstalled. I have to cut about 2 inches off the steel braided oil return line as it will rub on the subframe. The Yaris has a smaller opening at the front of the subframe which would account for the shortening of the hose. Not sure how I'll cut the hose, but it will likely involve unwinding the braid then cutters or a hacksaw to cut the rubber. The two outside hoses are the coolant in and out and the middle (larger hose) is the oil return.



Just found a video on a good way to cut the braided hose.

 

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Discussion Starter #32
Cut and hooked up oil drain hose. Also cut and connected the compressor to waste actuator pressure tube. Last night I got thinking about whether or not I had cleaned out the pan and lower block well enough. From the drilling there was a lot of swarf (aluminum filings) from the drilling and tapping process. I had cleaned it reasonably well, but my mind got the better of me, so I removed the pan again tonight and made sure there was nothing left in there. It was actually really clean but I blasted the area (well below the crank and main bearings) thoroughly with brake cleaner, use numerous microfiber cloths and compressed air. It's spotless now. The oil from the pan is routed through the pump to the oil filter so I expect nothing would have gotten through, but I've spent too much time and money to have the engine and turbo destroyed by some rogue filings.



Next Steps:

- hook up oil supply fittings at pressure sensor port
- hook coolant lines to the heater hoses
- Install downpipe
- Install K&N turbo compressor intake air filter
- install transmission cooler (I bought a tube and fin cooler a few years ago and never used it.)

Once everything is bolted up - and before the AEM F/IC is wired in - I'll verify oil flow through the supply line (disconnected from turbo) turning the car over without starting. I will prime the turbo with oil just in case I detect an oil supply issue. I'll have to look up which fuses to pull to kill the ignition and injectors. Then I'll run the car and check for oil and water leaks. In the meantime, I'll be ordering an oil pressure gauge and will have to swap the fitting that comes with the kit for a tee to add the oil pressure gauge.
 

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Corolla Fan
2013 Corolla L
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Cut and hooked up oil drain hose. Also cut and connected the compressor to waste actuator pressure tube. Last night I got thinking about whether or not I had cleaned out the pan and lower block well enough. From the drilling there was a lot of swarf (aluminum filings) from the drilling and tapping process. I had cleaned it reasonably well, but my mind got the better of me, so I removed the pan again tonight and made sure there was nothing left in there. It was actually really clean but I blasted the area (well below the crank and main bearings) thoroughly with brake cleaner, use numerous microfiber cloths and compressed air. It's spotless now. The oil from the pan is routed through the pump to the oil filter so I expect nothing would have gotten through, but I've spent too much time and money to have the engine and turbo destroyed by some rogue filings.



Next Steps:

- hook up oil supply fittings at pressure sensor port
- hook coolant lines to the heater hoses
- Install downpipe
- Install K&N turbo compressor intake air filter
- install transmission cooler (I bought a tube and fin cooler a few years ago and never used it.)

Once everything is bolted up - and before the AEM F/IC is wired in - I'll verify oil flow through the supply line (disconnected from turbo) turning the car over without starting. I will prime the turbo with oil just in case I detect an oil supply issue. I'll have to look up which fuses to pull to kill the ignition and injectors. Then I'll run the car and check for oil and water leaks. In the meantime, I'll be ordering an oil pressure gauge and will have to swap the fitting that comes with the kit for a tee to add the oil pressure gauge.
sweet! i'd like to see the details of the trans cooler you install... Youre got the U341E correct? I'd also like a trans cooler for my trans eventually as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #34 (Edited)
sweet! i'd like to see the details of the trans cooler you install... Youre got the U341E correct? I'd also like a trans cooler for my trans eventually as well.
I have the U340E. I found conflicting documents; one saying that the U340E is used in the 2009+ Corollas and one saying that it's the U341E. I believe they are basically the same trans with a different final drive ratio.

Will post up my trans cooler install when I get to it.
 

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I have the U340E. I found conflicting documents; one saying that the U340E is used in the 2009+ Colollas and one saying that it's the U341E. I believe they are basically the same trans with a different final drive ratio.

Will post up my trans cooler install when I get to it.
both transmissions are the same only change the final drive
U340E = 3,924
U341E = 4.237

advice that I will give and from my own experience does not exceed about 220 whp because the tranny does not support so much power
 

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Discussion Starter #36
both transmissions are the same only change the final drive
U340E = 3,924
U341E = 4.237

advice that I will give and from my own experience does not exceed about 220 whp because the tranny does not support so much power
I did buy an SAE paper on the U340E/U341E and there appear to be few other differences, but don't recall them at the moment. It has something to do with the shaft center spacing that results in the U341 having a marginally higher torque capacity.

That aside, I am really interested in your direct experience with the trans. How do you arrive at the approximate 220whp figure? I'll be honest, I'd be thrilled with 200whp. I'm going to ask the tuner to dial back the kit's stock 8.5 psi to about 6 - 7. And, I'll drive it 'respectfully.
 

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I did buy an SAE paper on the U340E/U341E and there appear to be few other differences, but don't recall them at the moment. It has something to do with the shaft center spacing that results in the U341 having a marginally higher torque capacity.

That aside, I am really interested in your direct experience with the trans. How do you arrive at the approximate 220whp figure? I'll be honest, I'd be thrilled with 200whp. I'm going to ask the tuner to dial back the kit's stock 8.5 psi to about 6 - 7. And, I'll drive it 'respectfully.

ok in your case you are using the original tranny U340E is made for 1.5 L engines while the U341E is for 1.8L engines
Within what you say the coverter can be stronger because of the type of engine that your car has, which in this case was a 1.5L

6 - 8 psi is ok with them it does not have any problem will reach the 200whp you want but that determines your tuner has to play with the keyboard

when I did my turbo 1zz install an AEM - FIC and change for a emanage ultimate the tuning was much better than the AEM had other features that the AEM does not have. the tranny was A245E modified to support up to 400 whp I got up to 300whp It was my goal, without any problems I also had to modify the engine with cp pistons and Crower Connecting Rod to secure the engine because the first engine broke by over boost at 15 psi.
 

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Discussion Starter #38
ok in your case you are using the original tranny U340E is made for 1.5 L engines while the U341E is for 1.8L engines
Within what you say the coverter can be stronger because of the type of engine that your car has, which in this case was a 1.5L

6 - 8 psi is ok with them it does not have any problem will reach the 200whp you want but that determines your tuner has to play with the keyboard

when I did my turbo 1zz install an AEM - FIC and change for a emanage ultimate the tuning was much better than the AEM had other features that the AEM does not have. the tranny was A245E modified to support up to 400 whp I got up to 300whp It was my goal, without any problems I also had to modify the engine with cp pistons and Crower Connecting Rod to secure the engine because the first engine broke by over boost at 15 psi.
Thanks ranger1zz. That sounds like quite a car you had.

Did you have problems with the F/IC keeping a tune? It seems to be hit and miss; a lot of people reporting no problems and others say it won't keep a tune. Maybe it has to do with the basemap. Turbokits.com claims that the tune will remain stable.
 

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Discussion Starter #39 (Edited)
Intercooler and Charge Piping

OK, so this is where some of the real modification begins. Any parts that are directly connected to the engine, I'll try to keep a small space on the order of 1/4" and I'll glue rubber pads on possible wear areas. I'm hoping to achieve 1/2" - 3/4" or more between piping and chassis parts, but this will be a challenge. Again, rubber pads and or sections of split rubber hose will be glued in all possible wear areas. I'm just loose fitting everything for now. It will all come apart, cleaned and obviously attached with the T clamps.

I was very happy that I did manage to get the MAF pipe in and down below the headlight. This was the piece that I figured would need to be cut and coupled, but I got lucky. I may have to move back or slightly downsize my battery as there's only about 1/4" clearance between it and the MAF pipe. Fitting it in there did require unclipping some of the small harnesses and tapping over a few tabs, but I'll re-secure the wires when I'm done.



There are going to have to be mods done to the intercooler piping. The pipe that connects to the driver's side of the intercooler will require about 6" cut off, bead rolled and a 45 degree 2.5" silicone coupler. Some metal needs to be removed to attach to the intercooler. On the upside, it looks as though all of the piping will tuck in close enough to the car that none of it should interfere with my bumper cover/foglights etc. That's a bonus, lol.







The left side of intercooler will also require mods, This one is fairly simple. I'll have to cut 3" - 4" inches off the aluminum piping, bead roll the end and attach the 90 degree 2" to 2.5" coupler.





Here is another challenge. The Corolla has a much wider opening in the subframe. I had initially thought that I'd have clearance but I don't. The 45 degree coupler that connects to the turbo and goes down to meet the pipe is touching the subframe. I could clock the turbo a few more degrees, but that would put a little side pressure on the wastegate actuator arm, which I am reluctant to do. I may have to buy a couple of different couplers and try to sidestep that pesky subframe. It's also just touching the oil return line. I'm not worried about heat or chaffing as the two will move together as they are both one with the engine. However, I'll try to figure something out to remedy that.



This section of pipe should be fairly easy but may also require a little trimming and bead rolling to shorten the overall length. This pipe has to go up but also much closer to the oil pan.



Here's a front-on shot. Please excuse the mess. I think tomorrow I'll go out and do some tidying.





So, overall I'm fairly happy about how this part of the project is going. I hadn't intended to tackle the charge piping at all this eveing, but I did remove the airbox because I'm trying to address another probem that could only be tackled with the removal of the airbox and the MAF pipe in situ. Anyone care to guess why I'm looking for extra space in the engine bay? :grin:
 

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Thanks ranger1zz. That sounds like quite a car you had.

Did you have problems with the F/IC keeping a tune? It seems to be hit and miss; a lot of people reporting no problems and others say it won't keep a tune. Maybe it has to do with the basemap. Turbokits.com claims that the tune will remain stable.

I had the problem in tuning with 750cc injectors I never got a good tune with it. I had the same problem that those other people reported will not keep a tune.
I think that with the type of injector that you are using, you should not have any problem since the kit includes some injectors that are good for the tuning that you are looking for.
 
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