Well, I'm not sure where to go with this. I'm swapping a 2ZZ into my 8th-gen Corolla. I figure this would be a better forum to ask in because the 8th-gen only came with the 1ZZ, and this is a more active board...
First of all, the two issues are completely unrelated. They both just happen to be impossible for me to figure out on my own.
Overheating:
So I had the motor out of the car for a while. Drained, hoses detached, etc. Nothing abnormal. I put it in the car, put all new hoses on, and put coolant in. Now here's where my problem is... if I rev it past idle or, God-forbid, drive it a little bit, it overheats pretty quickly. It (pretty slowly, say 15 minutes if just idling from 38 degrees) warms up to 183 and stays there. I rev it higher, the temperature goes up until I release the gas pedal and the temperature drops 5-8 degrees and stays there. It does not go back down to 183. Mind you, the fans are running all the time because I haven't fixed that part of the wiring yet.
The bottom hose, radiator, and heater core get slightly warm (warm being relative, think 75*F instead of the 38*F ambient). The upper radiator hose, top of radiator, and heater hoses get pretty warm with the exception of a cold spot in the upper (into core from engine) heater hose. Running the engine until it warms up with the radiator cap off results in nothing more than a bit of spilled coolant around the fill hole (neck? it's not long though) of the radiator as it expands, as normal. I've done this with the front end jacked up, squeezing hoses, etc. and it made no difference.
I've checked and re-checked everything I can think of, and everything the local mechanic has told me to. (I can't get it to him because I can't drive it, and he can't come over to look at it after closing shop until next week when his wife is back in town...)
I'm pretty sure it's just air in the system, as it improved to the above from overheating at idle and not going down at all after I drained and filled the radiator with the thermostat housing slightly loose to let air get out so the lower hose could fill completely. I have absolutely no idea how to go about getting said air out though.
Stalling:
Basically, the engine runs fine with the MAF unplugged up to the 3k RPMs that it's limited to when there's no signal from the MAF. When I plug the MAF in, at any temperature, it sputters and dies. If I try to start it with the MAF plugged in, it starts quickly but dies immediately. Sometimes it dies slowly after running rough at 200-500 RPMs for a few seconds.
I've installed a K&N Typhoon short ram intake. When I start the engine when it's cold, I can hear a relatively loud hissing/wooshing noise coming from the filter cone until it warms up slightly (about when the coolant is 90 degrees or so) then it slowly dies down. I can't hear it all when the engine is hot.
I think it must be a vacuum leak somewhere that I'm missing, but I have no idea...
Any suggestions? :/
First of all, the two issues are completely unrelated. They both just happen to be impossible for me to figure out on my own.
Overheating:
So I had the motor out of the car for a while. Drained, hoses detached, etc. Nothing abnormal. I put it in the car, put all new hoses on, and put coolant in. Now here's where my problem is... if I rev it past idle or, God-forbid, drive it a little bit, it overheats pretty quickly. It (pretty slowly, say 15 minutes if just idling from 38 degrees) warms up to 183 and stays there. I rev it higher, the temperature goes up until I release the gas pedal and the temperature drops 5-8 degrees and stays there. It does not go back down to 183. Mind you, the fans are running all the time because I haven't fixed that part of the wiring yet.
The bottom hose, radiator, and heater core get slightly warm (warm being relative, think 75*F instead of the 38*F ambient). The upper radiator hose, top of radiator, and heater hoses get pretty warm with the exception of a cold spot in the upper (into core from engine) heater hose. Running the engine until it warms up with the radiator cap off results in nothing more than a bit of spilled coolant around the fill hole (neck? it's not long though) of the radiator as it expands, as normal. I've done this with the front end jacked up, squeezing hoses, etc. and it made no difference.
I've checked and re-checked everything I can think of, and everything the local mechanic has told me to. (I can't get it to him because I can't drive it, and he can't come over to look at it after closing shop until next week when his wife is back in town...)
- Hoses are good (all new), not kinked, radiator topped off, etc.
- Thermostat was replaced, old one was fine anyway. Tested in boiling water.
Drilled a 3/32nds hole in the very top of it to allow for air to pass or something, idk. Stock thermostat has a hole with a small one-way stopper. Figure such a small hole won't let enough coolant pass to make a difference anyway. - Water pump is fine. I pulled it off and there's no corrosion, seems to be firmly attached to pulley, etc.
- Radiator is fine. Garden hose in the top and it all flows out the bottom.
- Overflow bottle was full almost to the neck of it.
The overflow on an 8th-gen isn't pressurized. I'm not sure if it is in the 9th-gen or not. I know it is in the Celica GT-S, but it is on the 1ZZ Celica as well. I don't know why this would make a difference when it works fine for the 1ZZ in the 8th-gen Corolla. - Radiator cap is a little old, but seems fine. Not sure how/why this would cause overheating either.
I'm pretty sure it's just air in the system, as it improved to the above from overheating at idle and not going down at all after I drained and filled the radiator with the thermostat housing slightly loose to let air get out so the lower hose could fill completely. I have absolutely no idea how to go about getting said air out though.
Stalling:
Basically, the engine runs fine with the MAF unplugged up to the 3k RPMs that it's limited to when there's no signal from the MAF. When I plug the MAF in, at any temperature, it sputters and dies. If I try to start it with the MAF plugged in, it starts quickly but dies immediately. Sometimes it dies slowly after running rough at 200-500 RPMs for a few seconds.
I've installed a K&N Typhoon short ram intake. When I start the engine when it's cold, I can hear a relatively loud hissing/wooshing noise coming from the filter cone until it warms up slightly (about when the coolant is 90 degrees or so) then it slowly dies down. I can't hear it all when the engine is hot.
- All hoses are new, except the PCV hoses which look good enough, and all hose clamps are tight.
- There are no obvious cracks anywhere on the intake manifold. I made sure all gasket surfaces were clean and smooth.
- I've replaced the MAF.
- I've replaced the throttle body gasket.
- I've replaced the intake manifold gasket.
- I've replaced the IAC with a much cleaner one from the junk yard.
- I've cleaned the throttle body and intake manifold.
- I've verified that the ECU is recieving signal from the MAF, and the MAF has proper ground and voltages.
- I've verified that the MAF is outputting (what I believed to be) the correct voltage as well, ~1 volt at 800 RPMs. Measured at the ECU pin, with the pin removed from the connector.
I think it must be a vacuum leak somewhere that I'm missing, but I have no idea...
Any suggestions? :/
